In the middle of a brief session, my DT402 controller "crashed". The LCD suddenly started displaying a string of unrecognizable characters/bits of characters, blinking. I had sporadic throttle control for brief moment; then, suddenly - nothing: blank LCD. I can power on/off; but no messages/response. I'm hoping that someone here is more knowledgeable; that this is not the first time a DT402 controller "crashed".
Any ideas and/or tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Bad capacitor, meaning it will need a Florida vacation.
Or the main chip is not fully seated in the socket. The Digitrax yahoo group always talks about slapping the controller sharply in your hand to reseat the chip - however I can;t imagine this TRYLY works - the force required to properly seat a chip in a socket is more than I'd be willing to subject the controller to. If this happened to mine, I;d open it up and carefully press the chip into the socket while supporting the board from behind - the right way to seat a chip. But, mine is out of warranty, and I've opened them up before. The case can be tricky to take apart. There are two screws under the batter label, and the whole thing sort of slides and lifts to take the back off. The throttle knobs must be removed to lift the circuit board out, and you need to be careful not to lose any of the little rubber nubs that are the buttons.
If it's relatively new and in warranty, I'd send it in for service rather than mess with it, unless you have significant electronics experience. That's what warranties are for.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
And it always happens on a long holiday weekend. Ol Murphy is always lurking. Doug
Randy
While you may be skeptical on the procedure - I have done it and it works!
One of my regular Operators on my layout had this happen recently and we tried everything - new Battery - let it set a while - nothing.
In desperation (to get him running) and nothing to lose (as we would have to send it back) - I slapped it fairly hard in my cupped hand and away it went.
He is still running it as of last Thursday!
And the only alternative is opening up the Throttle (which some will spout about Warrenty - which 99.99% are out of Warrenty - so isn't reliative) and press the processor chip back into the socket!
I have found this problem mostly with the Throttles that have been dropped at one time (some a LONG TIME AGO and forgotten about)!
BOB H - Clarion, Pa
Thanks, guys. Since I'm prepared to pony up @$200 for a new DT402 (from Walthers), I will certainly give the "smack in palm of hand" trick a try. Will certainly not open it up - I wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway. Thanks, again for the tips.
Georgia Flash Thanks, guys. Since I'm prepared to pony up @$200 for a new DT402 (from Walthers), I will certainly give the "smack in palm of hand" trick a try. Will certainly not open it up - I wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway. Thanks, again for the tips.
modeltrainstuff has the DT402 for $148 (basic) and the DT402D (duplex radio) for $188. I just bought the DT402D for my older Digitrax Chief system that came with the DT100.
Cheers, Jim
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
The "Out of warrantee" repair cost for the DT402 is only $25, plus your cost to send it to Digitrax. If the smack in the hand doesn't fix it, I'd seriously consider that option before buying another throttle.
I've talked with Digitrax, and they really don't care if you open it anymore. They used to put a silver sticker on the inside of the battery compartment, but no longer.
Top open a DT400 case, remove the battery cover. There will be two Phillips head screws exposed at the lower corners of the case. Remove them.
Now try to slide the rear of the case up towards the LocoNet cable. Front and rear should slide about 1/4" or so. Remove the top plate where the wire comes out so you don't lose it. Now the tricky part...
The rear of the case should be pried away from the front. It takes some muscle and perhaps a flat screwdriver for a little umph. Be forceful but gentle. It will come apart. I've taken apart dozens of these and I haven't broken one yet. The catches are "J" shaped which is why they must slide before lifting free.
When you pop it apart, be careful of the wires to the battery contacts. If too rough, you might disconnect them from the PC board (I've done it once).
To reassemble, take care not to snag the wires to the battery contacts in between the case halves. It's an easy way to slice through the wire (I've done it several times...oops). Line up the "J" catches and snap it closed. Slide the case halves back together, and reinsert the screws. I save the top plate for last, as I find snapping it in place after assembly to be faster. It will click right in there, but you may have to use a flat screwdriver for more leverage.
Paul A. Cutler III