I must report that I was (not the first time) getting ahead of myself. I cleaned the track well (CMX car) and also the FEF3 wheels (alcohol wet paper towel on track), as the tender wiper tweaking did not solve the problem. Well, running it today through the trouble area at the speeds where the stuttering had occurred it has not hesitated through about 50+ passes. Of course, since I did two things at once, I'm not sure if the issue was the loco/tender wheels cleanliness, track, or both.
So, I'll likely hold off on the CurrentKeeper unless the problem just seems to occur too fast. The FEF3 could be my test engine for when to CMX the track. I've not yet pulled the loco bottom cover to tweak/clean the 3 pair of driver wipers. Is there a way to clean them without any disassembly, even if just directionally helpful?
I've got the 2013 Big Boy and Challenger with similar setup, so I plan to ensure that the most troublesome of the three gets any reliability problem solved. I've always the CurrentKeeper option to add if I am only somewhat successful without it. Good to know.
On the Keep Alive problems that the aforementioned fellow cited, I communicated with him on the Atlas related site and he responded that he has put them on all his non-sound locos and still loves them, except with the Soundtraxx he had the problems he described in the Atlas thread and never did figure out the problem. He said he just received the CurrentKeepers and will try them and add a utube video "in a few days". I'll watch for that.
Thanks for all the comments on this particular mini-journey. More learnings!
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Paul,
Clean the turnout and the Loco wheels also. Could also have dirty pick-ups on the drivers. The way some of these engines are set up for electrical pick-up, it doesn't take much dirt..in the wrong spot.
Take Care!
Frank
[quote user="zstripe"]
It might be a good idea...before you go through all the current keeper stuff, to make sure all your current pick-ups and wires are all making contact first. You may find, you don't need to install the current keeper.
Just A Thought!
Here's the link to the Atlas thread where the guy tells of his problems with KAs.
http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/1010
He has Digitrax and says he measures 14.05v (assume he has a correct meter??). Unfortunately, he did not update the thread with an update / resolution. Don't know whether the problem was unique to his setup and whether he figured it out.
I measured my NCE PowerPro supplied track and get 13.5 (occupied track with some sound locos in idle) to 13.9v (unoccupied subdistrict). So will assume I'm ok.
I note my Vista desktop can display the link I had trouble with using IE9 but my newer 8.1 laptop using IE(x?) does not work for that link. Not a big problem, especially as I can go to Chrome for those or the desktop.
Next, to address getting into the tender.
Works fine in IE for me.
Did the guy on the Atlas formum mention which DCC system he was using? There are some that are notorious for putting too much voltage to the rails. There is no reason to put more than 15V to the rails for HO locos, they will run PLENTY fast. 15V to the rails leaves a little margin for the keep alives, which typically use sueprcapcitors which mostly are rated for 5 volts or less. 3 in series can handle 15V, but the KA comes after the decoder's rectifier, which causes a 2 diode drop, about 1.4V. If the track votlage is cranked up to 18-19V, the result is still over 15V and the capacitors will fail. The old Atlas Commander with the supplied transformer was one of those extra high voltage systems. Foolishly setting the scale switch to O/G on a Digitrax booster will also put more liek 18V on the rail. The HO setting is just fine at 15V.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Strange. the link just worked for me. You must be using IE as a browser. Use firefox.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Rich, I can't access that link with IE (shows jibberish). But I have Chrome on this laptop and got it open there. I have that nice article printed out from looking at the earlier KA thread.
On brand of add-on caps, from another thread I watched a utube video where the guy showed great results adding a TCS KA to an Atlas diesel that then ran great on dirty yard track. (It's not my goal to keep dirty track). But I came across an Atlas forum thread where he noted that most of his 10 or so added had failed, with discussion of track voltage, etc. The problem there is the thread sorta stopped with updates so I don't know if that issue was resolved. In any event, for me adding to a Tsunami, it's simpler to just add a Soundtraxx to a Soundtraxx as they will happily advise on the connection details so I don't have to guess on interpreting the circuit board components. The Soundtraxx fellow did confirm any KA type item would connect to the tender CB, not the one in the loco.
So, unless folks have had bad experience with the CurrentKeeper I think I'll try that. And I need to get into the tender without hurting it (my favorite loco). I may take to the LHS (local re my kids house) in Ft Worth when I'm up there (they have the CurrentKeepers) and have them open the tender if I don't easily get the details loose. Frank reminds me that I have some teeny screwdrivers in the garage i forgot about, smaller than the set I have with my train stuff.
Overall, I think the capacitor add-on for this loco situation seems perfect. I guess the issue with putting them in or with decoders (like some TCS new ones) is they add significant size if a 2-6 (KA1) or more (KA2) second reserve is desired). I would think a 2-6 second reserve would solve most running problems.
Reread that link you provided, that guy said they just pry up. They would not glue something on, that you needed to remove for access. Seemed pretty straight forward to me. Got a flat blade jewlers screw driver? Just slowly work one end then the other till it comes off like pins on truck side frame.
FYI. Here is info about the TCS stay Alive which should be about the same. two leads. I suspect Marcus will try the Current Keeper in the future.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
The link provided by the OP mentions DC to the motor. It is really positive or negative pulses from the decoder which widen for more speed. This has nothing to do with Stay Alive though.
My 2014 version FEF3 sometimes stalls temporarily in a spot where my other locos do not, mostly on a #8 turnout diverging route or just beyond. I think I've verified that it is not shorting. I'm tempted by the Keep Alive concept as a solution and am interested in comments.
I've read most of what I could find through searches. Several questions:
- Soundtraxx has a CurrentKeeper version of these capacitors. I called today and they said one would fit in the FEF3 tender and if I get one they can advise exactly where to connect on the unique Tsunami board in the FEF3.
- A key issue may be my ability to get into the tender without damaging the details. I found a web item elsewhere (about a DC FEF3 conversion) that explains how to get into the tender (exposing the screws). Any detailed insight would be appreciated. Two items (a tool box and a hatch as best I can tell) have to be loosed from the tender top details but do they just pry up? I'll attach a link to what I've read.
http://www.rcgrabbag.com/archives/athearn-genesis-up-fef-3
Any and all comments most appreciated.