I have been working on my Walthers FA-1 dcc installation and I just don't think that I can finish it without ruining it. I know everyone is very expericened and helpful with dcc installations in this forum. I was looking online and it costs about $60 to have it installed. If anyone can beat this price and install the decoder (provided) and a headlight ( not provided), please DM me.
-Alex
My Layout Photos- http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/ajwarshal/library/
Where do you live? My LHS has done one for me, and the labor was a lot less than that. Try your LHS, or go to a train show and ask around, or perhaps visit a local club.
Shipping, unfortunately, can get expensive and add significantly to the price, so it's best to shop local sometimes.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I agree with Mr. B. Check with your local hobby shop if you have one.
I probably cannot convince you to do it yourself, but it can be done and you have the links and photos that show how to do it.
Sooner or later, most of us have to take the plunge. Remind me, which decoder did you purchase?
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich,
It is my first time converting a loco to DCC. I have a Walthers FA-1 DC and I would like to convert it to DCC. I have bought a NCE 100 DS13R decoder and plan to install it. I was wondering if to attach the wires, can you simply warm the pre-existing solder and put in the new wires (after removing the old wires) in? Or do you have to add new solder, and if so what type. And I read you have to isolate or replace the headlight (is this true and if so can you explain)? Thanks in advance.
zstripe Rich, DCC Question Posted by ALEX WARSHAL on Thursday, May 22, 2014 7:34 PM It is my first time converting a loco to DCC. I have a Walthers FA-1 DC and I would like to convert it to DCC. I have bought a NCE 100 DS13R decoder and plan to install it. I was wondering if to attach the wires, can you simply warm the pre-existing solder and put in the new wires (after removing the old wires) in? Or do you have to add new solder, and if so what type. And I read you have to isolate or replace the headlight (is this true and if so can you explain)? Thanks in advance. Frank
Hello everyone, I checked with my local hobby shop, and they can't do it. So I ended up biting the bullet and trying it, and I will let you all know how it turns out.
skip the headlight for now and just get it running. It REALLY is easy, you have two wires, one from each truck on the right side, that connect tot he decoder red wire. Two wires on the left side, one from each truck, that connect to the decoder black wire. One wire on the right that goes to the motor, connects to the decoder orange wire. One wiere on the left that goes to the motor, connects tot he decoder grey wire. That's it. Just make sure to insulate all connections so they can;t touch. It only takes a small amount of solder and the connections should solder nearly instnatly - if you have the proper soldering iron and the tip is clean. You want a 15-25 watt iron, no more. And a little can of the tip tinner you can get at Radio Shack to help keep it clean.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
ALEX WARSHALI have been working on my Walthers FA-1 dcc installation and I just don't think that I can finish it without ruining it.
looks like there are several web pages describing how to do it.
here's one: Walthers FA-1 DCC installation
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Gotta agree with Randy here. Just get it up and running. Two motor wire connections and two connections to the pickup wires. You can temporarily protect the solder joints with electrical tape. Once you get it all up and running, replace the electrical tape with heat shrink tubing.
richhotrainreplace the electrical tape with heat shrink tubing.
Pretty hard to get the heat shrink onto the wire after the connections are soldered, isn't it?
That decoder is a packet with wires extending out of it. So if you splice the connections, you just put a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the end of the connection.
richhotrainThat decoder is a packet with wires extending out of it. So if you splice the connections, you just put a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the end of the connection.
if you splice them together this way (without the wire nut)
gregc richhotrain That decoder is a packet with wires extending out of it. So if you splice the connections, you just put a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the end of the connection. if you splice them together this way (without the wire nut)
richhotrain That decoder is a packet with wires extending out of it. So if you splice the connections, you just put a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the end of the connection.
Instead of the wire nut connector, I would start out with a small wrap of electrical tape to protect the connection until I have it all working correctly. Then, make the connection permanent by replacing the electrical tape with a short length of heat shrink tubing.
I have a bottle of paint-on insulation that I used when heat-shrink tubing is awkward. It works pretty well.
MisterBeasley I have a bottle of paint-on insulation that I used when heat-shrink tubing is awkward. It works pretty well.
It's a soundtraxx Tsunami. I don't know the specefic deoder, but I think it's a GN1000.
ALEX WARSHAL Not to interrupt the conversation in place, but I tested it last night and it works, headlights and all. Now it’s time to dim the headlight and by the end of the day I will post pictures.
Thank you to all who helped me through this process and I am glad this is done. Now on to myy next project a Athearn SW1500.
Hey Alex!
Way to go!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
richhotrain asked: What is the brand name, Mr. B. ?
What is the brand name, Mr. B. ?
The paint-on insulation is from GC Electronics.
Thanks Dave, and on the insulation note, I was going to use that stuff, but I ended up using shrink tubing and electrical tape.
Great New's, Alex....
Take Care!
Frank
Thank you all for the support and thanks.