With light bulbs, consider installing a 22 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in a lead. Longer light bulb life. The surge when turning on the lights is what normally shortens light bulb life.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Ive decided to scrap the sound idea for now. Have plenty of other sound units. May go back and swap decoders later.
The link I originally posted went dead for reasons unknown.
Here is an updated link to info about sugar cube speakers:
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/sugarcubespeakers.html
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I went back and swapped the wires and put the DC plug back in. Both directional lights work correctly.
Re-installed decoder = no lights.
Then it dawned on me... go back and re-read directions, and there it was in B&W. The decoder remembers the last thing it was told the lights were doing in DCC mode when you switch to running in DC mode. And, having never been told the lights were on, the lights are off. This is probably a good thing because I will need to turn down the input voltage to the lightbulbs with the decoder CV so I dont cook them (or my plastic shell).
First a question
On the default PCB, the Forward headlight connects to points marked U+ and FR. Which wire Black or Red goes to which contact? On the rear light Red goes to U+, Black to FL.
Now my pointless dribble and less important questions.
Update on the SW-1 project. Stripped the model down and painted the shell and cab black except for the small B&M on the front and cab. I am back dating it to the square herald w/o minuteman scheme. I have purchased a NCE D14SR decoder (8-pin) The decoder goes in nicely under the hood with one minor problem. The large chip on the underside contacts one of the resistors on the printed board. I insulated it with a piece of tape and it works on DC. Will have to take it to next club work session for programming. Does anyone know if this will cause a problem.
EDIT: Decided to go with just doing it and removed all friction clips and soldered all connections that i could confirm. It occurs that the U+ should be the opposite color on the front light if it were to be working in DC mode (lights up opposite direction based on polarity. New problem? discovered. No lights in DC mode (it runs, but no lights either direction). Is it possible that I just ESD'd the decoder to death or do the lights only work now when programmed?
I have read in a few different forums of the sugar cube speakers being used by some with positive results. I bet a Google search would bring up many results, including You Tube examples. Yeah, I know, will depend on how good your hearing is.
I've tried a few of those "cell phone" speakers, and they blow away speakers that are four time bigger ! I got mine from Digikey for about $3.00.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
David:
Where do you get the iphone 5 speakers?
I checked eBay but could only find the larger accessory type speakers.
Thanks
EDIT:
I just found one source. Their website has a ton of information about installation and how they work. Thanks for the suggestion David. May be a game changer.
Second edit: The link I originally posted went dead for some reason. I have changed the link so that it now works.
This looks similar to a Spectrum 70 ton. This is a link where I put sound in a Spectrum 70 ton a few years ago. "Might" give you some ideas.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/164181/2256784.aspx#2256784
BMMECNYC:
I haven't done a Walthers SW1 but I have done three P2K switchers and I have a fourth in process.
If you want to make the installation bullet proof then solder the connections.
If you don't want to have to replace light bulbs down the road then use LEDs. I use '0603 SMD' LEDs (.060" x .030" Surface Mount Device). Make sure you get warm white. If you haven't worked with small LEDs let us know and we can explain how to do it. Don't forget the resistors. One reason I use the 0603s is that they take up almost no space which can be a distinct advantage when you are trying to find room for you decoder and speaker(s).
As has been said, fitting a speaker into a switcher can be a challenge. I put mine in the roof of the cab. Don't bend the horn like I did! The yellow and blue wires are for the LED:
They don't show that much although if you look carefully you can see them. This one shows because of the camera flash but under normal lighting they are not noticeable:
You can reduce the amount of speaker showing by shaping the back of the spealer enclosure to match the roof profile. I use .040" styrene to replace the back of the enclosure where the corners get cut away.
Fitting the decoder may require the removal of part of a weight. Others who have done the Walthers SW1 can advise you better.
By all means, get rid of those plastic clips and solder every connection, even on the trucks if the wires are not soldered there.
You'll probably have to replace the circuit board to make room for a decoder and speaker. Usually, a decoder small enough to fit is no problem, but finding a speaker that can fit is the biggest concern on such a small model.
Has anyone done this? Do I need to swap out the light bulbs for LEDs? Would you reccommend soldering the wires for the lights/motor leads onto the provided PCB or continuing to use the plasitc friction clips?