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I am a newbie. Where should I place a gap to isolate a section... do I even need to?

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  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: AU
  • 713 posts
Posted by xdford on Friday, May 23, 2014 2:44 AM

Hi there,

 

It will mess up the workings of the train if you do not use it properly. The Automatic reversers that are available still require you to insulate sections. I wrote an article for the Melton MRC here in Australia and the actual thrust of the article is to grow a layout but a return loop and wiring is incorporated. So if you go to www.meltonmrc.org.au and check the September 13 issue under "About", the wiring or try http://www.meltonmrc.org.au/newsletters/issue22-september13.pdf directly may work.. that I cannot test!!!

The difference for you being on DCC would be that you would drive the train into the isolated section and stop it. Throw the switch for the reverse loop but not the direction switch on the controller then just drive forward. The metal wheels usually is so momentary that it should not be a major problem for you.

 

Good luck and good on you for getting involved with your son in this fantastic hobby!

Regards from Australia

Trevor  www.xdford.digitalzones.com for your interest

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 22, 2014 5:10 PM

Rich

I started a new thread on this subject because I have additional questions that dont pertain to the OPs question.

Andrew

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, May 22, 2014 4:54 PM

BMMECNYC

 

 
richhotrain
One last issue. Be sure that the reversing section is at least as long as your longest train so that the wheels are not crossing the gaps at each end of the reversing section at the same time. That will cause a short because the polarities cannot stay matched.

 

 

Clarification:  Loop needs to be as long as your longest locomotive consist that draws power from the track.  You can run a 16ft long train through a 3ft long reversing section as long as you dont have  (insert item(s) using track power here)'s  wheels crossing the gaps at each end of the reversing section at the same time.  Im not sure how/if this works with lighted passenger cars that use track pickup.

 

 

You might get away with a reversing section no longer than the longest locomotive (consist).  But, the prudent recommendation is to make the reversing section at least as long as the longest train for several reasons.

One reason is lighted passenger cars.

Another reason is an End of Train device or lighted caboose.

A third reason is metal wheels on your rolling stock.

A fourth reason is lighting-ready cars, like those from Walthers.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 22, 2014 4:44 PM

richhotrain
One last issue. Be sure that the reversing section is at least as long as your longest train so that the wheels are not crossing the gaps at each end of the reversing section at the same time. That will cause a short because the polarities cannot stay matched.

 

Clarification:  Loop needs to be as long as your longest locomotive consist that draws power from the track.  You can run a 16ft long train through a 3ft long reversing section as long as you dont have  (insert item(s) using track power here)'s  wheels crossing the gaps at each end of the reversing section at the same time.  Im not sure how/if this works with lighted passenger cars that use track pickup.

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:45 PM

When you have a reversing section, or a reverse loop, you need to completely isolate the reversing section by gapping the rails on either end(s) of the reversing section.  In addition, you either need to add an auto-reverser or install a  DPDT switch to automatically or manually flip the polarities and avoid a short.  

Once you do that, when a train enters or exits the reversing section, the polarities will be flipped to match.  So, to use your terms, the wheels in the old section and the wheels in the new section will have matching polarities.  

One last issue.  Be sure that the reversing section is at least as long as your longest train so that the wheels are not crossing the gaps at each end of the reversing section at the same time.  That will cause a short because the polarities cannot stay matched.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Fullerton, California
  • 1,364 posts
Posted by hornblower on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:08 PM

As Frank noted, a quick sketch of your track plan will help us help you.  Sketch out your track plan and take a digital photo of it.  Once you open an account with a photo hosting website (I use Photobucket) you can then upload your track plan photo to the photo hosting site.  Then if you paste the photo url into this thread, we'll be able to see your track plan.  I'm a little confused by your description but if your train exits the outer loop, negotiates the inner loop, then returns to the outer loop without changing directions, you may not have a reverse loop.  If however, negotiating the inner loop causes your train to re-enter the outer loop in the opposite direction from which it started, you do indeed have a reversing loop.  We'll need the track plan sketch to be sure.

I would recommend picking up one or two of the available DCC how-to books as they generally cover the necessary wiring for most track plan situations.  Several DCC system manufacturers also offer automatic reversing units that can be wired between your main DCC buss and the section of track creating the reversing loop.  You will need to gap both rails at each end of the reversing loop section, not just one as in common rail cab control.  Track connections (feeders) in the reversing section should connect only to the auto-reversing device.  

Hornblower

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 4:32 PM

NSCSX,

I see no one has replied yet, so, Welcome To The Forums.

Sounds like from Your description, You do have a reverse loop or two. A track plan would be extremely helpful to anyone giving you any advice. I realize you are new and might not be able to do that and you said you are using EZ track, which you may be able to configure, to eliminate any reversing loops for simplicity sake....I would however suggest that you review and study this site, so you can familiarize yourself with DCC control. Should You still have questions, which I'm sure you will, ask away.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm

 

 

Click On Link

Take Care!

Frank

  • Member since
    May 2014
  • 1 posts
I am a newbie. Where should I place a gap to isolate a section... do I even need to?
Posted by NSCSX fan on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 9:28 AM

Thanks for any and all help...

I am new to railroad wiring and the different modifications and methods that are possible/available for maintaining a complete circuit throughout the track.  I bought an EZ track set for my son for christmas and we wanted to try an alternative layout instead of the standard oval.  I had two Right turnouts connected (connected turning track to turning track) to go into another inside area that eventually leads back out onto the outside track via a left turnout.  This obviously creates a short since the - will meet up with the +.  If I do decide to gap the track, what happens when the train goes over this area and some wheels are on the old section and some wheels are on the new section?  Won't this mess with the inside of the train? 

This is probably a really basic question, but I don't want to learn the hard way.

Thanks for your help!    PS   I am using DCC.

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