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Turnout wiring

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  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: North Carolina
  • 758 posts
Turnout wiring
Posted by Aikidomaster on Monday, May 12, 2014 9:09 PM
I have been reviewing several model railroad videos recently from the dream plan builder series. It seems to me that a lot of individuals are running feeder wires to the frog of the turnout for DCC turn out. My question is, does one have to do this or not? I am guessing that it improves performance and decreases the chance of stalling over the turnout. I have more than a few turn out already installed on my railroad. And before I progress any further I need to know whether or not I have to go back and wire the turnout. I use the tortoise switch machines on my layout.

Craig North Carolina

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 1,932 posts
Posted by Stevert on Monday, May 12, 2014 9:21 PM

Your guess is correct - Generally speaking, it can improve performance and decrease the chance of stalling over the turnout. 

But whether or not you need it depends on a number of factors such as size of the locos, and the arrangement of their power pickups.  For example, a short wheelbase loco, or a steam loco with pickups on one side of the loco and on the other side of the tender may not be able to span the "dead spot".

Do you encounter any issues with the turnouts you already have in place?  If not, I wouldn't bother wiring them.  But if you do, or if you're a "belt and suspenders" kind of person, you might want to.

Remember, too, that proper wiring on the rest of the layout, and good, clean rails will also help.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 6:29 AM

 A lot depends on the size of the turnouts you use, and the types of locos you run. More modern locos with all wheel pickup will do better than older ones which only pick up power on one side of the front truck or loco and the other side of the rear truck or tender. Shorter (sharper diverging route, lower number) turnouts generally have a smaller insulated area at the frog (not all brnads are created equal) and may still handle you locos without powering the frog so long as the rails and wheels are clean as there will always be some wheels on powered track. A larger frog number, more gentle turnout will generally have a larger frog area and the dead area may be too much for the wheels to span. Small locos, like a 'critter' diesel, or Trackmobile, or one of those BLI inspection cars, almost certainly require powered frogs to operate smoothly without stalling or jerking. On a #8, and even a #6 turnout, those things are so short that it is entirely possible for the whole thing to be contained within the insulated frog area and get no power. Go in fast enough and they may coast past the dead spot with a huge jerk, but that's hardly realistic. Power the frog and they should be able to maintain a nice realistic speed all the way through.

                     --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 6:55 AM

What kind of turnouts do you have?  Atlas snap-switches and Peco turnouts have plastic frogs, so you can't power them.  Walthers-Shinohara and Atlas Customline turnouts have metal frogs.

When I started using Walthers-Shinohara turnouts and Tortoises on part of my layout, I didn't power the frogs at first.  They worked OK, but there were occasional stalls.  So, I tried wiring the frogs on the problem turnouts.  The results were very good, so I went back and retrofitted the rest of them.  Now, I do it routinely during turnout installation.  It's just a small effort then, while it's a lot more awkward later on.

As a middle ground, you could just solder a green wire to the frog before you mount the turnout.  (Frogs are green, so you'll recognize your frog wires instantly.)  Then you can connect it to the Tortoise later on if you feel you need it.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 7:07 AM

MisterBeasley
As a middle ground, you could just solder a green wire to the frog before you mount the turnout. (Frogs are green, so you'll recognize your frog wires instantly.) Then you can connect it to the Tortoise later on if you feel you need it.

At a minimum, this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Given that the goal of Craig's layout (unmentioned here, but noted in other posts) is to build a logging line of some kind, possibly narrowgauge, you WILL want to wire those frogs to be controlled by one of the two sets of contacts on the Tortoise.

It's already been mentioned that short wheelbase locos have more troubles getting through an unpowered frog. For light steam locos and narrowgauge, the solutions are even more important than they are on a modern standard gauge layout. In fact, I would not build a HO narrowgauge layout without powering the frogs. Just too many chances of things stalling. Even under good conditions, maintaining effective contact can be iffy, so you don't want to miss this opportunity to improve performance.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: North Carolina
  • 758 posts
Posted by Aikidomaster on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:55 PM
I am running N&W class A, J, and A's. But I have 0-8-0 to switch the yard. It is a problem. I use number 8 turnouts on the mainline and number 6 turnouts in th yards. By the way, I have three Southern Railway FT A-B-A's.

Craig North Carolina

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