"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
There is no need to cut any rails. The suggestions on Wiring for DCC will make things more reliable but are not absolute requirements. That involves cutting through two existing jumpers on the bottom and adding two new ones, and will require a method of powering the frog through the long wire already attached to the turnout. This is an improvement over the out of the package Electrofrog, and it will be far more reliable than any Insulfrog, as there will be no dead spots to stall even the smallest loco running at the slowest speed. The insulated joiners elminate the need to saw through anything, however the neat thing about turnouts like this is that you can also just solder the joints to the track beyond the turnout and then cut gaps in regular track's rails, a few inches from the frog, instead of cutting the rails of the turnout. This performs the same function as cutting rails on the turnout, or using the insulated joiners, so if insulated joiners are too unsightly for you, this is yet another way to get the needed gaps.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks to all of you for your replies and help.
This is a web site that I went to which added to my confusion. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm
I knew that seeking out answers from those of you who have had experience in this field would be the best solution.
Don't cut any jumpers, add insulators to the frog end of the turnout, always keep the points and point hinges clean. I use denatured alcohol for that and enjoy running the trains. I know there is alot of confusion out there and I went through that on my new build. I finally came to the conclusion that keeping the turnout clean is the answer and much less work painfull, than cutting the heck out of my brand new Peco Electrofrog turnouts as some suggest. This worked and is still working for me. Doug
The only really SPECIAL thing that you need to do is put insulated rail joiners on the two rail ends that come from the frog. If you don't do that, you will have a shorted track on the route that the turnout is not set for. If that route is a stub end siding, no problem. But if the route continues on and has track feeders attached, there will be a short.
The easy way to see that is to make a drawing of the turnout and use red pencil for one rail and black pencil for the other rail. Where the two meet at the frog is where the short will be. By putting the insulated rail joiners on, you eliminate the problem.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
You don't really need to wire anything to the frog on a Peco Electrofrog turnout and it will still work okay. We have a couple of them on our large HO scale club layout and can't tell if they're Electrofrog or Insulfrog, as far as trains going through them okay without stalling.
But we don't run 0-4-0 or other very short wheel based locomotives, which would probbly stall on either type if the Electrofrog were not wired through a relay.
I am having problems understanding the wiring instructions for Peco Electrofrog turnouts. I have read the insruction sheets, read forums, asked questions, but I still don't get it. I do plan on a trip to the hobby shop where hopefully I can get some hands on help. I am beginning to wonder if I would have been better off with the Insulfrog turnout. The instructions I have read so far about the Electrofrog include cutting jumpers, adding a bond across rails and using electrical switches. Some have even said to saw through rails but having spent good money on a turnout I can't see cutiing through one. I am building a shelf layout where I will be manually throwing the turnouts. No switch machines involved to route the power. I also saw a product from Tam Valley that seems to be a solution but that's yet another investment.
Any thoughts, experiences, reccommendations woould be greatly appreciated. I am going to be using Digitrax DCC. Thank you.