If you are just going to plug in to the 9 pin plug, you can use any decoder with a 9 pin connection and no changes are required for the lights, they will work fine. I just don't like having to go back later and repalce burned out light bulbs, also I don;t like the way they poke through the light castings on the body shell. I did have the part number for the correct MV lens to place in the openings, and then you'd put an LED behind each one.
For non sound, a TCS T1A gives great performance. The T1A is a buck or so cheaper than the T1 because it doesn't come with the wiring harness, which is not needed for this loco.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
cowman Seems I may have a blub change coming up in a few running hours. What bulb do you suggest and where to get one, if not Athearn. Thanks again, Richard
Seems I may have a blub change coming up in a few running hours. What bulb do you suggest and where to get one, if not Athearn.
Thanks again,
Richard
Ahhh yes, the infamous Athearn bulb replacement. As you can see, most of us are familiar with their lack of life expectancy. As someone indicated, LED is the way to go.
For the headlight, you can use a 3mm LED with a fiber optic tube and some heat/shrink tubing like this (you can probably start at the 4:00 mark):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70tyimJWGas
These 3mm LED's were purchased here (already have resistors):
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html
Now, if/when you get into ditch lights, watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-GB9Qt6ibo
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
Dave,
Thank you for the information. When the correct decoder arrives, I will have to re-read your ideas and see where it takes me. I'm sure I will have many more questions before I get this DCC, decoder, wiring, soldering and all pounded into my head.
Richard:
I don't suggest a bulb at all. Use an LED. They will last forever.
I'm not sure of your knowledge level re LEDs but here is a bit of an overview:
You will need to find out how many volts your decoder puts out for the lighting functions. Most are 12 volts but a few decoders are wired to accept LEDs without resistors. If your decoder puts out 12 volts for lighting then you will need to install a resistor between the LED and the power supply to avoid frying the LED as soon as you turn the power on. (There are LEDs available that come with built in resistors). Recommended resistor values range from 470 ohms to 1000 ohms, but if your locomotive is not really modern date wise then you might want to use a higher value to reduce the brightness to more prototypical levels. Maybe 2200 or 3300 ohms, and I would suggest a 1/4 watt resistor.
There are several sizes of LEDs which will work. In some cases a 3mm LED will work great because it is the same size as the headlight lense. If you need to install a speaker you might be better using an 0603 SMD LED because the 3mm LEDs have leads coming off them that might intrude into the space needed for the speaker. '0603' is the size of the LED, in other words it is .060" x .030". Tiny, but fairly easy to work with once you have practised a bit.
LEDs on eBay:
If you scroll down you will find 0603 LEDs with leads already attached:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X0603+warm+white+smd+led&_nkw=0603+warm+white+smd+led&_sacat=0&_from=R40
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=0603+warm+white+smd+led&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.X3mm+warm+white+led&_nkw=3mm+warm+white+led&_sacat=0
Resistors are cheap on eBay too:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4w-Watt-0-25W-10-K-Ohm-Metal-Film-R-Resistor-100-Pcs-IUK-/131102185235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e864c9713
You want a "warm white" LED, not bright white (which actually have a very unrealistic blueish tone to them).
Don't be afraid to get into installing your own LEDs. We will answer your questions.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thank you for the replys. I did finally get it out, and yes, it didn't come easy. Now to get the right decoder, think I was sent the wrong one. Emailed them just now, hope to find out tomorrow.
mlehman richhotrain Sorry, that was a typo. I meant 6 days. Laugh Still a bit high in my experience. At 6 hours, I throw them a little birthday party, because like mayflies, they won't be around for another one....
richhotrain Sorry, that was a typo. I meant 6 days. Laugh
Still a bit high in my experience. At 6 hours, I throw them a little birthday party, because like mayflies, they won't be around for another one....
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainSorry, that was a typo. I meant 6 days. Laugh
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
PennCentral99 richhotrain The average Athearn bulb has a life expectancy of 6 weeks. Rich That's good, considering my recently purchased NS, PC Heritage - Genesis/SD70ACe/DCC/Sound were burned out in less than 7 days. Of course, I complained to them and they sent me a pack with no questions asked.
richhotrain The average Athearn bulb has a life expectancy of 6 weeks. Rich
The average Athearn bulb has a life expectancy of 6 weeks.
rrinker Someday Athearn may join the 21st century and stop using those bulbs.
Someday Athearn may join the 21st century and stop using those bulbs.
Randy, I just heard a rumor that Athearn is planning to upgrade its bulbs in 2099.
Seriously, though, that could hurt their profit margins, since they sell replacement bulbs. The average Athearn bulb has a life expectancy of 6 weeks.
They do come apart. It just takes a pretty high amount of force. You need to grasp all 9 wires with one hand and pull the plug out with the other, wiggling slightly. Or, use an Athearn/Atlas board repalcement decoder and remove the whole thing by removing the plastic caps and unhooking all the wires, but that will generally require resistors for the bulbs, or replacing them with LEDs (the best option, those lights protruding through the ends of the shell are HORRIBLE. Someday Athearn may join the 21st century and stop using those bulbs.
Hi Richard:
Digitrax (IIRC) gives instructions for similar situations where a plug and harness have to be removed from a decoder. They advise that you grasp the wires firmly and evenly (so you are pulling on all the wires at once) and pull the plug straight out of the decoder. I would give it a try, with the caveat of course that you don't want to apply huge amounts of force. Keep in mind that you are pulling on several wires at once. If you were to take a bundle of the same wire and pull on it I think you would have to pull pretty hard to break all the wires.
If you are reluctant to do that (I can understand why - I was the first time) then perhaps you could call Athearn for advice.
Modelling HO Scale with a focus on the West and Midwest USA
My lack of micro electronic experience is showing.
Have an Athearn RS-3 with DCC ready plug. Problem is that I can't figure out how to remove the wiring harness from the jumper board. It looks like the white part that the wires go into should pull out of the beige part on the jumper board, but I can't get a seam enough to get hold of it to gently pry it off. I could try pulling on the wires, but that has never been a good option as far as I know. Am I at the right place? If so what should I hold or pry on to loosen the plug?
I am assuming that the decoder will lay on top of the transmission cover like the jumper plug did, with a piece of double sided tape holding it in place.
Thank you for your assistance,