I have had problems with DCC on both Insulfrog and Electro frog switches that I didn't have with DC. Each type has a different problem. I use Peco Insulfrog Switches mostly. One solution is to apply nail polish to the spot on the back end of the frog where the rails are very close to extend the insulated area. Let it dry well and maybe do a second application. Nail polish is harder than paint, but will have to be reapplied as it wears off due to use and track cleaning.
If you are going to use Live frog switches with tortiose machines you can use the contacts to power the frogs and there is a way to make them more DCC friendly by cutting insulating gaps ahead of the frogs, then soldering jumpers from the stock rails to their respective points. This is better and easier to do before the switch is installed.
I've recently made the switch to DCC on my mostly old N-scale train collection. Over the years I've built several DC powered layouts using Atlas code 80 flex track, custom switches and under table switch machines. Everything I read seams to indicate that the Atlas switches are DCC friendly since they have an insulated frog. Mine, however, are not. I get a nice spark and pop every time a metal wheel goes out the diverging side of the frog. As near as I can tell, the wheels are wide enough to hit both rails.
Small layout (4x8) using MRC Prodigy Advance. I've converted a few of my old locos with Digitrax DN135D decoders.
My long term solution is to start handlaying track with live frogs and Tortoise machines. In the mean time, anyone know how to make a DCC compatible switch DCC compatible???