I'm trying to find a cheap 2 position DPDT switch for use with a tortoise switch machine. Any recommendations for a good online supplier of these components?
Thanks!
I use allelectronics.com
Yes, All Electronics has been my supplier for more than 40 years. Highly recommended, and an MR advertizer too.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Me, too, All Electronics, specifically the MTS-8 DPDT on-on mini toggle switch for my control panel, $1.60 two years ago. Also got bi-color LEDs, LED panel clips, barrier strips, 24AWG red/black zip cord from them.
I turned to Mouser for 3M suitcase connectors for DCC feeder wiring, and Hobby Engineering for various colors of 22AWG solid feeder wire.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Prices on ebay for these and other small electronics components can't be beat. For instance, a listing this morning for five on-on DPDT mini toggles for $1.95, free shipping. The downside is that it usually takes a couple of weeks to get them.
Along with All Electronics, I also use Marlon P. Jones. (MPJ)
http://www.mpja.com/Mini-Toggle-Switches/products/289/
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
How many do you need? Sometimes, the shipping costs will overwhelm any savings if your order isn't big enough.
When I need only one or two of these, my LHS carries Miniatronics toggle switches, which are very good but not as inexpensive as All Electronics. On the other hand, there's no shipping charge and I walk out of the store with them.
I am also very happy with All Electronics. Another strategy is to put together a larger order, buying perhaps more toggles than you need, but also wire, connectors, power supplies and other fancy stuff.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I've used Allied Electronics and their predecessor, Allied Radio since 1962. Warning, industrial quality.
Rich.
Greybeard I've used Allied Electronics and their predecessor, Allied Radio since 1962. Warning, industrial quality. Rich.
I Googled "Allied Electronics"... and Digi-Key and Mouser came up ahead of them.
Go Roar!
Unless you need more than one or two, go to Radio Shack. Shipping charges from the various mail order sources will be more than the cost of the switches.
Hi Folks,
Thanks for all of the suggestsions. I did get the MTS-8 DPDT's from AllElectronics. Followup Question. I would also like to try to hook up Bi-color LED to show turnout direction. I got an LED-141 and LED-6 from AllElectronics also, just to experiment with. My question is this: What type OHM resistor should I hook up if I want to avoid burning out the LED? I'm planning on using an old 12 volt DC tranformer to power the Tortoise. I'm not sure of the milliamp value of these LEDs and want to pick a reasonable resistor so I can have a standard configuration when hooking up any Tortoise/LED in this configuration.
Thanks in advance
LION always uses 1K (1000) Ohm resistors : Good protection. If you want brighter you can go with less, if you want dimmer you can go with more. LION buys 1K Ohm resistors by the thousand. ($12.00 at All Electronics.)
By all means...check out Jameco. Been dealing with them for about a year. Great prices, outstanding service. Bought electronic components for signals and several power supplies from them, good pricing on wire. Nice and easy to use web site. Give them a try.
Mark Hoffman
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
crhostler61By all means...check out Jameco. Been dealing with them for about a year.
I've used Jameco on and off since the began as James Electronics. I've used them, Allied, Digi-Key, a few others but find I can find the better quality at Allied when none of the others will have them. Some sense has to be used, as in determining if you really need an industrial rated switch or if you can get along with something less. Personal preference may vary.
I use a 12v 1amp wallwart to power my tortoises. power draw is so low that a resistor is not necessary.
floridaflyer I use a 12v 1amp wallwart to power my tortoises. power draw is so low that a resistor is not necessary.
Correct, for LEDs wired in series with the Tortoise power. No resistors needed, the Tortoise itself is the resistor and keeps current to safe levels. But if you drive LEDs using the switch contacts on the Tortoise, you will need resistors. There are pros and cons to both ways. The series LEDs make good panel indicators, the selected position glows dimly while the Tortoise is moving and then brightens when it reaches the end of travel, so you have some sense that something is happening. For trackside signals this isn;t very desireable, so the switch contacts and direct to the power supply method is probably best.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I prefer the 9-volt wall wart that I use. The lower voltage moves the points more slowly, which is one of the big reason for using a Tortoise in the first place.
I see that there are 2-leg and 3-leg bi-color LEDs so I could have greenindicate straight and red indicate diverge.If I were to hook up a 3-leg LED in such a way that it did require aresistor, does it matter which of the 3 legs Ihook up the resistor to? I'm new to the electrical aspects here so bearwith me. As I understand it, there are 2 anodelegs and one cathode leg connected to the LED. Is is sufficient to use oneresistor on any of the legs, or do I needto connect more than 1 resistor to the LED? I'm guessing that 1 resistor toany of the legs would work, but if that'snot the case, how should I do it?Thanks!
Put a couple of panel indicator LEDs in there and that 12V power supply becaomes about 9V to the Tortoise.
That suggests that running multiple tortoise switch machines and associated panel LEDs on a control panel would from a single power supply would totally reduce that power supply to a low, unusable voltage. Is that the case? What if I wanted to run 30 switch machines and accompanying LED panel lights? Would a single 12 volt power supply be insufficient to do this? If so, what is a better solution?
Thanks