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" MY THROWBAR PROBLEM"

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: west of Portland Oreg.( the city of Roses
  • 599 posts
" MY THROWBAR PROBLEM"
Posted by TrainsRMe1 on Thursday, January 23, 2014 6:45 PM

Hi All,

    I hope your New year is getting off to a great start, anyway, I have a slight problem with my Tortise Throwbar,  when I push the bottom of the throwbar, all seems to be fine except, the wire doesn't throw the switchpoints all the way to the stock rail,  what could be causing this??? I made sure that the hole in the layout table is big enough so the throwbar has enough play,

    

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Thursday, January 23, 2014 6:47 PM

 What sort of turnouts? If Peco, did you remove the springs? If not, you need a much thicker wire from the Torotise, the one supplied will just bend and not exert enough force to overcome the built in spring.

 If they are not Peco, is the actuating wire rubbing on the sides of the hole? It needs to freely move back and forth. And - did you install the fulcrum, the piece of plastic that slides on those tracks on the side of the Tortoise, and has a hole in it for the wire to pass through? That's what makes the wire actually tilt back and forth as the Tortoise actuator moves.

                           --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Westchester NY
  • 1,747 posts
Posted by retsignalmtr on Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:15 PM

Have you thrown them under power?

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:31 PM

I have over 20 Torti on my Walthers Shinohara code 83 turnout and I managed to create some problems for some of them, initially or later.  Initially, I had not properly centered the (3/8" in my case) hole in the plywood properly under the throwbar center hole, so the wire was impeded in getting over far enough on one side.  The hole can be (carefully) enlarged on the offending side with a Dremel from underneath if needed if you can avoid going through the throwbar.  Note my track is on cork roadbed so I could wallow out the plywood without getting as high as drilling into the throwbar.  Another problem can be a funny bend or twist to your Tortoise throw wire.  You can try bending it a bit so it biases more to the weak side, but you will lose some corresponding tension on the other direction.  And note that the fulcrum can be adjusted downward (not past the end of the sliders, of course) to change the leverage; i.e., the farther from the track you move the fulcrum, the more leverage you create.  If all this does not work (and the hole is big enough and centered enough, suggest create a new, stronger (less flexible) throw wire.  I used 0.032' music wire.  That adds a lot more force.

I did manage to create some problems with okay turnouts when I painted track.  For instance, even with the throwbar masked, the point rails from there towards the frog have to slide over the ties, so you want minimal paint there to avoid added friction to the moving rails.  I also hand painted the unmasked ties and throwbar and in cases where the throwbar slides against the next tie (I have several of these) there is some interference that was minimal but then exacerbated by the paint. 

Another potential installation issue is friction under the throwbar.  For instance, if on cork, it is usual to sand the cork under the throwbar to ensure no hump exists that would interfere.

Of course, ballasting aroung the throwbar can create problems (glue, etc).  

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: west of Portland Oreg.( the city of Roses
  • 599 posts
Posted by TrainsRMe1 on Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:50 PM

Hi Randy,                        

      My turnouts are Peco, and I DID NOT remove the spring, that might be the root of my problem, now, here's another question, I have never removed a spring from my turnouts before, what's the best way to do this??

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Brisbane Australia
  • 568 posts
Posted by Alantrains on Friday, January 24, 2014 1:49 AM
If they are the old type just pry the little metal tabs holding down the plastic cover with the raised T symbol open and lift off the cover. A little right angled bit of spring wire will either flick out or you need to lift it out. Thats all you need to do. You can replace the cover or just leave it. If it's the newer type you have to remove the turnout as the spring is underneath. Good luck!

Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Friday, January 24, 2014 5:35 AM

I have too many Tortoises on my layout to mention.  These little guys never fail.

As others have indicated, remove the spring on Peco (and save it), make the hole bigger and make sure that it is centered, and use a stiff piece of piano wire.

If you cannot throw the point rail to the stock rail manually, it will not throw sufficiently under power.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: sharon pa
  • 436 posts
Posted by gondola1988 on Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:49 PM

richhotrain

I have too many Tortoises on my layout to mention.  These little guys never fail.

As others have indicated, remove the spring on Peco (and save it), make the hole bigger and make sure that it is centered, and use a stiff piece of piano wire.

If you cannot throw the point rail to the stock rail manually, it will not throw sufficiently under power.

Rich

 

I also have too many Tortoise machines, when I installed mine I drilled a 1/2 inch hole for the spring wire to go thru. It gives you a little more room to tweak it. I just painted the hole black and waited for it to dry a little and installed the machines, you will hardly see the larger hole, Jim.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 289 posts
Posted by bagal on Sunday, January 26, 2014 4:27 AM

How to remove spring;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TJsz1hUxMc

0.032" spring wire is sufficient to throw the turnout with spring still in place.

 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: North Dakota
  • 9,592 posts
Posted by BroadwayLion on Sunday, January 26, 2014 9:15 AM

LION uses 1/2" hole under turnout. Lots of forgivness there! LION throwas away the templates and instructions that come with the Tortoise, they will do you no good. Throw away the screws (or the idea of using screws) to mount the tortoise.

  1. Manually center the actuator wire.
  2. put a glob of silicone caulk on the mounting face of the tortoise
  3. keep the caulk away from the operating parts.
  4. Thread the actuating wire up from under the table through the hole and the tie rod
  5. Slide the tortoise this wan and that until the switch points are centered.
  6. without moving the switch points fine tuen the position of the tortoise so there is no tension or bending of the actuator wire.
  7. You may need to prop it up a bit until the caulk sets, but mostly, this is not necessary unless of course you have prewired your tortoise, which is highly recommended.
  8. Wire the Tortoise with a lenghth of Cat-5 network cable : it has eight conductors. Use the blue pair for the motor, and the brown pair for the common, Let the green and orange pairs be your selected contact and you can then do the rest of your wiring in some nice place that is not under the table and does not require you to bend your body about like a snake. Snakes are good to eat, but they make lousy work animals.

ROAR

 

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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