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Attaching Peco PL-13 To PL-10

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  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: N.E. Lancashire (off Jnt. 12, M65.
  • 215 posts
Posted by john.pickles87 on Monday, January 6, 2014 10:04 AM

Hi Rich,
To clarify, the motor is mechanically attached (see Bob's photo lugs bent in slots on point) so if ever there is need to remove the motor you ease the lugs and the motor drops out.  Never had to remove one in the 35yrs I’ve been using Peco. (Nout else worth using over here)
Could be a bit iffy mounting a new one, I’d use the extended pin one to get through the tie bar and hold in place with self grips till the lugs are refitted.
Had a switch get corroded with ballast glue but it came off the motor easy enough with a bit of prying with a bent screw-driver (don’t ask), nearly cut the wrong wire though when replacing it.
 
Be in touch.

Pick.      

?
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Westchester NY
  • 1,747 posts
Posted by retsignalmtr on Saturday, January 4, 2014 8:42 AM

A smear of five minute epoxy is what I use. I have used a gap filling CA, but be careful as sometimes the CA migrates before it sets up.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, January 4, 2014 6:36 AM

I use Tortoises, so this is all foreign to me.  But, once you use contact cement to hold the Peco switch to the turnout, can you ever again separate the two?

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Westford MA
  • 544 posts
Posted by Tophias on Saturday, January 4, 2014 6:31 AM

Thanks Bob, I appreciate it.  And Pick, your procedure for visually hidding the switch motor is exactly what I did when I constructed the layout 10 years ago (this project is for hidden storage underneath).  Great minds think alike I guess!!

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Friday, January 3, 2014 2:21 PM

T,

I used Zap A Gap medium, but I don't think it really matters. The other glues mentioned above should work just as well. The accessory switch "wraps" around the switch motor so horizontal movement is secure and there souldn't be much if any vertical pressure on it.

Good luck

Bob

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: N.E. Lancashire (off Jnt. 12, M65.
  • 215 posts
Posted by john.pickles87 on Friday, January 3, 2014 1:43 PM

Hi T,
I use Uhu, the one with a fine nozzle. 
Also I put a piece of photo card painted background colour (Ballast) with 4 holes for the lugs and a slot for the drive pin between the point web and the motor, and make it good ¼” bigger than the hole in the roadbed. (check in the photo)  Once all checks out ok a smear of glue round the edge and some ballast over = no motor showing.
Be in touch.

Pick.

?
  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Westford MA
  • 544 posts
Posted by Tophias on Friday, January 3, 2014 1:19 PM

Thanks Bob (and Pick and Randy and Frank) for the pic.  Bob and Pick, do you use the gell type CA or the more liquid type, or does it even matter?  Any particular brand of you might  suggest?  Frank, do you get that only direct or is it a LHS item?  Sorry for such mundane questions but I am not a user of CA (yet?).  THanks again.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:15 PM

If you have a lot of use's for it, might be worth the price:

http://www.adhesive.com/i4-instant-adhesive

Frank

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:33 PM

As Pick suggested I used CA and wired the the turnout and the accessory switch at the work bench and used terminal strips for each wire. The terminal strips were used for other turnouts as well. 

Bob

EDIT: I used spade connectors on the wires to attach to the strips

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: N.E. Lancashire (off Jnt. 12, M65.
  • 215 posts
Posted by john.pickles87 on Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:54 PM

Hi T,

 

Any impact glue will do, just a dab on the plastic switch ends or the ends of the motor keep it well away from the moving parts and if you can wire the motor and switch before installing em on the point it makes it alot easier.

 

Be in touch.

Pick.

?
  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:06 AM

You could probably use Walthers GOO also, it's a rubber-based adhesive with tremendous strength, like contact cement.

Frank

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, January 1, 2014 10:07 PM

CA is probably not a good option, since under repeated impact it will tend to fracture. Need something with a little more 'give' to handle the point motor slamming back and forth - perhaps a urethane glue like Gorilla Glue.

 "Impact adhesive" is another name for contact cement - so there's another option.

               --Rancy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Westford MA
  • 544 posts
Attaching Peco PL-13 To PL-10
Posted by Tophias on Wednesday, January 1, 2014 6:53 PM

First, Happy New Year to all.  I am preparing to install some Peco turnouts with PL-10 switch motors in a hidden staging yard .  Unlike on the existing layout I plan to utilize the Peco PL-13 switch contacts to power some LED's to indicate turnout position.  My question is, how do I attch the PL-13 to the PL-10?  I thought it was a snap/mechanical fit but the instructions say "apply impact adhesive . . ".  Are they referring at CA?  THanks.

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