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First sound decoder install

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  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Central Ohio
  • 570 posts
First sound decoder install
Posted by basementdweller on Friday, December 20, 2013 6:54 PM

Over the last few evenings I completed my first sound decoder installation. I picked up a Tsunami sound decoder from a friend for $50. I also picked up a speaker from my LHS today for $10.

The loco of choice was a P2K SW1200. I stripped down the trucks and removed all the old grease and relubed with Labelle. Soldered power pick up wires to the metal side frames rather then use the factory plastic holders.

I had to sacrafice some weight for decoder space and also the crew for speaker space. I crammed the ceiling of the cab with clay for a bit of weight and to close of the space behind the speaker.

I also removed some cab glass to allow the sound out along with the sound coming out around the truck.

I was cautious not to have too much wire inside the shell which always has caused me problems in the past.

Anyway, the shell is back on and the default sounds are great, love that non-turbo prime mover.

While I am very happy with the installation the only concern I have is the shell doesn't quite fit snug, the ends are held in place by the coupler draft gear boxes but the center of the shell is raised slightly raised off the chassis, this due to the lack of room between the top of the motor and the shell. I removed the tabs on the top of the motor that held the old board.

Any suggestions to secure the shell?

I will try programming later this evening, very pleased and all for $60. Just wanted to share this.

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Friday, December 20, 2013 10:27 PM

That first install is always hair-raising, but really rewarding when done.

Is the extra "overhead" inside due to a thicker board or just springy wiring? Wiring can be taped down to get better clearance, but if something solid, it may require carefully Dremeling out some additional headroom. Sometimes, its just a point or two sticking down that's the leg from a detail on the hood above; if so, can usually be carefully trimmed.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Friday, December 20, 2013 11:35 PM

Hi basement dweller!

Congratulations on your first sound installation! You certainly didn't choose an easy locomotive for your first try.

I have done three P2K switchers with sound. Fortunately the shells all fit back on without problems, in fact I may have removed more weight than absolutely necessary, but what's done is done. I plan on MUing them anyhow so tractive effort shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I'm not sure where you mounted the decoder. Did you put it on top of the motor or did you remove part of the weight? I removed some of the weight over the front truck to make space for the decoder. The only trick there is that the decoder wires barely cleared the remaining weight. Also, I used a Locsound Select decoder instead of a Tsunami. I believe that the Locsound is a bit shorter than the Tsunami so your Tsunami may not fit where the Locsound did.

You suggest that the shell is hanging up on the motor but I suspect that it is hitting the decoder or the wiring. If I recall correctly there were small tabs or pins on the inside top of the shell that held the copper contact strips which fed power to the headlight. Removing those pins, if you haven't already, might give you enough clearance.

If you really want to see where the shell is making contact, put a thin layer of silly putty or similar material inside the top of the shell and push the shell down on the motor and decoder until it just makes contact. The putty will have dints where it touches. That may not help you solve the problem if it turns out that the decoder is just too thick.

By the way, if you have problems with the low speed operation there are ways to tweak the Tsunami so it runs better than the factory settings. Tony's Train Exchange has some information on that, and there is a previous thread on the subject.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/216137.aspx.

For some reason I can't get links to automatically highlight, so to make the link usable highlight it and then right click. You will get a menu box that will allow you to open the link. Scroll down to Selector's post. It's not as complicated as it sounds.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, December 21, 2013 4:49 AM

Resist the temptation to leave that shell loose.  You want that shell to fit correctly to look right and operate without future issues.

As Mike and Dave have already said, if the shell fit correctly before the decoder install, then the decoder itself, or excess wiring, or the speaker and enclosure,  is causing the problem.

If it were me, I would fix the problem so that the shell fits tight.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Central Ohio
  • 570 posts
Posted by basementdweller on Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:48 AM

Thanks for the replies, the decoder was installed over the motor. I removed all the plastic tabs on the motor that held the old board in place, I will check the inside of the shell for any protrusions.

The issue is the decoder not the wiring, I made sure there was no excess (springy) wiring.

I only removed the top of the front weight so the was no worry about the decoder shorting against it and concerns for clearance.

I will disassemble this loco again and see what I can do with the inside of the shell.

Thanks.  

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, December 21, 2013 10:52 AM

 I'm guessing you have it pretty close to closing all the way, might have to shave just another fraction off the weight. Definitely want to be able to install the shell properly - next year, you'll forget that this loco doesn't have the shell secured and you'll go to pick it up and drop the chassis right out of it, possibly ripping out some wiring in the process. Plus if the shell isn't secured, it can resonate with the sound or motor and add nasty buzzes to your otherwise good sound.

               --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, December 21, 2013 9:47 PM

Basementdweller:

One more thought popped into my mind (used up my quota for the day!). This may be too obvious, but what did you use to secure the decoder? If you used double sided foam tape then the thickness of the foam might be the problem.

Also, which Tsunami did you use? The TSU-1000 is way too long to mount over the front truck (1.68"). The TSU-750 is 25.5 mm (1.1" approx) so it would fit over the truck. The Locsound I used was 1.18" long.

If you happen to have a TSU-750 relocating the decoder will be a PITA now that the wires have been trimmed, unless the Tsunami has a plug which will allow the harness to be replaced.

Please keep us informed. This is valuable information for those of us who install our own decoders.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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