Recently, I installed a Digitrax DH123P decoder in my Phase III P2K GP9 and I can't get the shell to go on and the lights don't work. Will I need to mill away some of the frame for the shell to fit and will I need to replace the bulbs or solder them onto the extra wires on the harness?
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The DH123P should fit, but the suggested Digitrax decoder is the DH165L0 - This decoder has pins on the bottom and plug directly into the DCC socket in the P2K GP9. Also, it is designed to work with the low voltage lamps included with the P2K locomotives. Most on my GP9's have the older DH163L0(superseded by the DH165L0). The DN135PS will also fit under the shell, and is more cost effective. BTW, I replace the lamps with LED's - No burning out of the lamps....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I forgot to say earlier that this one isn't DCC ready (1997 run I believe) and the decoder had to be soldered on to the light board, therefore, i'm not sure how I can get the shell on completely because the decoder is blocking it (front is higher than the back with the shell on).
On those boards you need to cut through some traces. They are marked ont he board with X's. If you don't, it will fry the decoder. Best option for those is to just remove that board, then there is plenty of room for the decoder.Replace the front and rear light bulbs with golden-white LEDs with a 1K resistor on each one.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have a pair of P2K GP9 ph 3 models like yours. I removed the light board(just snipped the motor/truck pick-up leads). The old P2K light board have a lot of diodes for powering the low voltage headlights, and after time the diodes start 'leaking' - Causing all kinds of strange problems. Getting rid of the light board gives you lots of space for your decoder, and prevents future diode 'leakage' issues.
The DH123 series decoders have a JST connector and the 'harness' can be removed, preventing heat damage during the install process. I 'hard wire' the leads using solder and heat shrink to insulate them. I use Evans Designs LED's that are able to handle the 12v function output:
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html
There are other ones available as well that may be less expensive, but these can be purchased in 'bulk' for about $2.80 each, and polarity is not an issue. They are a quick install, and you now have a light that will not fail for a long time!
Here is the board that gave me fits.
I tried soldering onto it, cutting the traces, but it never worked right, if at all.
Time to remove it, and do it right, with LED lighting.
Orange wire goes to the bottom of the motor. Gray to the top.
Everything all tucked in.
The one on the right has LEDs, the one on the left has 14v bulb.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
My question for your installation: Do you remove the motor to solder the wires? How and where exactly on the motor would i need to solder at?
The motor wires should already come up to the factory board. You just solder right to those wires - a piece of heat shrink tubing is helpful to insualte the connections after you solder them.
Most P2K locos even have the wires color coded, the motor wires will be orange and grey, the wires from the truck pickups will be red and black.
Go tot he TCS web site and look at their install pictures. They will liekly have your exact loco there, use that for guidance, even if you don;t use a TCS decoder, they all hook up the same way.
-_Randy
I did as was said on how to install the decoder without the light board. When I did some more research, I found out that you need the red wire screwed onto the frame. When I try to run my train, it doesn't run. Can anybody please help with this problem?
With the older board, you need to solder a wire to the top of the motor, as the board had a wiper that contacted the motor.
If you have worked on an Athearn, same process: gingerly take the top clip off the motor, don't let the brush and spring fly away. Solder to the brass clip, reassemble. The bottom of the motor has a wire going to it from the factory.
These units use the frame for one side of the power pickup, like an Athearn. Check the bolsters, see if a buildup of dirt or grease is inhibiting power flow. Also check the weight, make sure it is screwed into place. If hooking the red wire to the frame doesn't work, you may need to solder a wire directly to the metal plate behind the truck sideframe on the appropriate side. It can be a little tricky to route the wire.