I have two WalthersMainline HO SW! Switchers and I have two non-sound decoders, but can't figure out how to get the Cab off. The rear tab at rear end of cab will not release. I need to remove the cab so I can reinstall the hood. the hood is off the engine as I removed it a couple months ago and now can't figure the removal of the cab. Any suggestions?
jrbernierTom, Lok Select/sugar cube speaker - Removed the light board...really tight! Jim
Thanks, Jim. Are you happy with the results?
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
If I may insert my here, when space is tight consider using the Loksound Select Micro. Same price, same performance. It is only .75 amp maximum capability but for most applications that shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you test your locomotive's draw first.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Jim,
It's been 2-1/2 years since you originally posted this. Did you ever install sound in your SW1? If so, which decoder did you use?
Just picked up a newer undecorated Walthers SW1 and would eventually like to install sound in it. Saw someone on YouTube installed a Loksound Select Direct in theirs but didn't provide many details other than that.
I look forward to a follow up and some photos as I also wish to install a sound decoder in a new SW1.
Brad
EMD - Every Model Different
ALCO - Always Leaking Coolant and Oil
CSX - Coal Spilling eXperts
Here are some photos of the Walthers SW 1. The new and the old.
First a bit of advice on removing shell. the new instructions say remove front coupler and lift body straight up. This will not work well as when it releases you will be pulling up so fast that you will rip the headlight out of the front holder. The best way is to remove the cab first. It has tabs in front of cab. The tighter you grip the cab to pull the stronger the tabs hold the cab. Instead you can use a small thin blade knife to raise the front of the cab a little bit, than do the other side. Working this slowly you will begin to see the front move up and than you can disengage the rear cab tab to frame. After this the car body will lift easily keeping in mind you have a tab in front of the car body to frame.
When reassembling take a file to tabs on front of cab and remove enough of this material so that the cab will stay put but won't ruin your model when you try to remove it. These tabs are what keeps the car body down on frame so go slowly here.
To apply a sound decoder you can remove the light board. Under this board is the rear of the front gear box and front of motor. There is no room under here. The light board is nothing special and you can than hard wire a Tsunami 750 or Loksound Micro Select. With the light board off you have about .250 inches above the top of frame. The decoder looks short enough that a small oval speaker could fit under the hood behind the decoder or better in the cab. I have NOT done this yet so I do not know how much sound chamber trimming will be needed. The capacitor can be mounted in whatever space you do not use for the speaker. This project is in my lineup for this fall so I do not have any photos of a finished installation.
To apply a sound decoder you can remove the light board. Under this board is the rear of the front gear box and front of motor. There is no room under here. The light board is nothing special and you can than hard wire a Tsunami 750 or Loksound Micro Select.
With the light board off you have about .250 inches above the top of frame. The decoder looks short enough that a small oval speaker could fit under the hood behind the decoder or better in the cab. I have NOT done this yet so I do not know how much sound chamber trimming will be needed. The capacitor can be mounted in whatever space you do not use for the speaker.
This project is in my lineup for this fall so I do not have any photos of a finished installation.
My mistake, I used a DH163PS decoder, Not the DH163IP
Sorry, I did not take any photos. Always on my list to do but run out of time or forget until I have it all back together.
Meyblc Jim, I just installed a DH163IP (short harness) into both of my new SW-1's with little problem. Mike
I just installed a DH163IP (short harness) into both of my new SW-1's with little problem.
Mike
I just installed a DH163IP (short harness) into both of my new SW-1's with little problem. I used a small piece of double sided scotch tape on the underside of the engine cover to keep the decoder in place. At first I found that the decoder was being pushed down on the brass fly wheel. Now they both run great in DCC. Getting sound into these is going to be an impressive trick. Hopefully someone will post pictures as they do it.
Woodone,
Any chance you could post some photos?
woodone I just finished up doing one of these guys. Used a Tsunami TSU-750 sound decoder, 16X35 MM speaker and two 100uF surface mount capacitors. Just reused the LED's that were in the unit. {snip}
I just finished up doing one of these guys. Used a Tsunami TSU-750 sound decoder, 16X35 MM speaker and two 100uF surface mount capacitors. Just reused the LED's that were in the unit. {snip}
Thanks!
I am just about ready to start on that conversion, but had no idea what size speaker would fit.
-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.http://www.pmhistsoc.org
I just finished up doing one of these guys. Used a Tsunami TSU-750 sound decoder, 16X35 MM speaker and two 100uF surface mount capacitors. Just reused the LED's that were in the unit.
I removed the original light board and made a brass place to fit in its place. I mounted the decoder on the top of the brass plate for a heat sink. I also had to use Surface mount capacitors as the decoders original 220uF was too large to fit it into the hood . I installed the 16X35 MM speaker in hood with an enclosure I made so the cone was facing down. Tight fit but it is doable. The 16X 35 speaker makes it sound pretty loud. Speaker was mounted to the rear of the hood by the cab.
Tom,
I converted two of the older(non-DCC Ready) SW1 a number of years ago. This new model has a 'light board' with an 8 pin socket - really tight(like in the Atlas MP15DC and Genesis MP15AC models). The overall plan is to put 'sound' in them and i suspect I may have to ditch the light board. I tried a Digitrax DN135 and a TCS T4X - The big issue is the 8 pin harness does not allow the hood to fit.
I am sort of 'fishing' to see what other have tried as I do not want to 're-invent the wheel' so to speak!
Jim
Which decoders did you try?
I used a Lenz Silver MP decoder when I converted my early 90s Walthers SW1 to DCC and could only fit it in the cab area. I also had to modify the back portion of the shell (that went into the cab) so the wires wouldn't get pinched.
I'm guessing with these new SW1 that you'll have to put the speaker in the cab, as well. Just taint much room in these little critters...
I just got a pair of the new Walthers SW1 models. A fast 'test fit' with several motor only decoders reveals that the clearance with the a 8 pin harness is rather tight. Maybe some kind of 'IP' type decoder with the 8 pins built in to the decoder package may work(or just get rid of the 'light board' and hard wire the decoder into the model). What I would really like to do is get 'sound' into the model - Has anyone done with with the new version of the Walthers SW1 model?