As noted by someone earlier, you can do some CV adjustments (or, someone with a DCC system or Decoder Pro can do them) that will affect how the engine runs. My BLI NW-2 is set up with a fair amount of momentum and to run at slow speeds, I find it runs well (with momentum) on DC also when I set up some track around the Xmas tree. I use an MRC Tech IV, and I use BLI's little 'two button' controller for the horn and bell sounds.
My BLI Heavy Pacific ran very poorly on DC right out of the box.
It runs great now on DC ...................the decoder is long gone.
I would strongly suggest to the OP that if you want sound, you need DCC or something like the MRC Tech 6.
DC and sound are just not really a winning combination.
For me, I don't like the sound, so that is just one of many reasons why I don't need DCC.
Sheldon
BOBWRGHT,
You know,that is a good point,,,,The OP,did say,it run like that,out of the box....
Cheers,
Frank
Amother thing to check is a mechanical problem. It may have nothing to do with the electronics. You might have something binding in the drive train. The loco won't move until you give it enough current to overcome the binding .
davidmbedardGo DCC. David B
amen, bro
Rich
Alton Junction
What power pakc are you using?? Some of the cheap power packs do not have smooth throttle control but rather step from one set voltage to another with nothing in between.
The loco should run smooth with a good DC pack. I have 15 BLI steam engines running on DC with no problems. You might try to reset the engine to factory setting. If someone played with it the settings might be way off.
Contact BLI with your problem on the phone. They are very helpfull.
If it were mine, I would pull the decoder and wire it direct. But then I do not like sound. If I was a sound person, I would look into the currently produced MRC Tech 6 to run it with.
Jim
I will have to agree,with Randy,,,it's the Power Pack causing your engine to perform,the way it does,not the engine.....I have a all DC layout and six,BLI's,that I run on it with no issues,,not all the functions work on DC,like on DCC,,,but for me that is fine..I use 3 MRC,20'S,on my,25x40,,without a hitch,,one MRC 20,puts out close to 6amps and throttle control is excellent....sound comes on at 1.75 and moves a tad under 2.0....Too bad they don't make that Model anymore...I'm guessing it was the DCC,bandwagon..
John.
The BLI tech reference manual describes what needs to be changed for good running on DC. You may need the programmer for changing these CVs. http://www.broadway-limited.com/support/manuals/P2%20Steam%20Tech%20Ref%201.01.pdf
To be honest I have never tried running one on DC.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
This is an issue with ALL sound locos on DC - the sound circuit needs power so they are set to not start the motor until the voltage is high enough to run the sounds - so you can have the loco sitting there and making the 'standing' sounds. Otherwise the loco would be rolling a good clip before it even started to chuff.
They can be adjusted somewhat to reduce the starting voltage. A top notch power pack with a non-linear control will help, since the amount of change per amount of dial movement is reduced at the upper end of the speed range. However, those old taper wound rheostat packs don;t do well with modern low current locomotives.
The other alternative is DCC - if you really want to have sound locos, this is the best way to go.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hi all,
I just bought my 1st BLi steam engine, a B&M light Pacific to haul milk .:)
BLi states that it could run DC and DCC , my layout is DC . I am finding that right out of the box the locomotive starts at a high voltage...starts slowly ok ..but then on slight increase in throttle... ZOOOM..it takes off. Then I have to dial it back to where it almost stops . And when and if I find that very narrow sweet spot , its sometimes is jerky . It is certainly not a constant runner like my proto locos. Also on reverse I have to turn the controller all the way up and then the loco takes off...like a momentum effect.
Is there a break in period ? I may have 20-30 minutes of run time with no improvement.
Does anyone have any suggestions other than go DCC ?
Would purchasing the (sold separately) DC control system help with these running issues?
I am really disappointed in this locomotive...since the cost of the loco doesn't match the performance.. IMO...I am thinking of returning it.
Thanks,
John