chochowillieI have 2 brand new never run 20 year old Proto 1000 diesel loco's. Both F7's I have a sneaking suspicion that they don't have split frames given their age so I'm thinking it's going to be tough if not impossible to install a DCC decoder in either one of them.
I have a sneaking suspicion that they don't have split frames given their age so I'm thinking it's going to be tough if not impossible to install a DCC decoder in either one of them.
Hey thanks for all the great suggestions and information sites guys! All your input will be very very useful when I get to that project. Got lots of them on the go right now so it will be a while but now I have the bookmarks
Thanks again. I love this site
Dennis
CDN Dennis
Modeling the HO scale something or other RR in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies Alberta, Canada
richg1998 How do the motor brushes pickup power if not a split frame?
How do the motor brushes pickup power if not a split frame?
Well:
Dennis.
Easy peasy. Look at these links.
LL P1000 http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_1000_F3A/Proto_1000_F3A.html
Alternative that uses the factory board. http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_1000_F3A_alternate/Proto_1000_F3A_alternate.html
For a P1K with an 8 pin plug. http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_1000_F3A_DCC_Ready/Proto_1000_F3A_DCC_Ready.html
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Take a look at the TCS site for you scale and version.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html
Store the link in Favorites.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
A photo would help a lot.
Make sure there is nothing connected to each motor brush.
Some motor have each brush attached to each motor half.
I have a Walther's like that. I had to use Kapton tape to isolate each motor half and attach the motor using nylon screws. I used an ohm meter to check the motor. I used some 0.002 thick Phosphor bronze to send power to the motor.
As I had explained to me three or four years ago, it isn't the motor so much as the brushes which can't get power directly from the frame. What many do is to fashion a cradle of plastic for the entire can motor, provided they can thereafter ensure that only the can motor itself is receiving power from the rails. The pickups feed the inputs for the decoder, the decoder lies where it won't be affected by motor heat if at all possible, and the motor outputs from the decoder go to their appropriate tabs or mounts on the motor.
I believe that some members here even use gobs of silicone goop to isolate the motor and hold it in place. I think one of them might even be our moderator, Jeff W.
Isolating the motor should do it Dennis. I'm no DCC expert, but I have done a few Athearns, and what you are doing would be no different.
Mike.
My You Tube
I have 2 brand new never run 20 year old Proto 1000 diesel loco's. Both F7's I think.
If a person was able to isolate the motor from the frame, would that do the trick?
Just sitting here wondering, that's all.