C & O SteamSorry, you mentioned wind guards windows and I thought you were talking about the shades.
I did? I went back and reread the only two posts I made in this topic and didn't see any mention of wind guards or cab shades or any parts like that. I only came in to comment on how another modeler found the plug in decoder wouldn't fit and allow the shell to fully sit back on the chassis.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Sorry, you mentioned wind guards windows and I thought you were talking about the shades.
C & O Steamriogrande5761: Don't worry about taking off the window shades, mine fell off when I took it out the box. MC
MC
Thanks for the update. BTW, I don't recall saying anything about window shades, where did that come from?
Ok another update. I finally got the DCC plug out and put the DC plug back in and the engine ran just fine. I noticed the plastic on the end of the decoder may have been preventing it from going in all the way. I cut them out and reinstalled the decoder and everything works. Now I just have to get all the pieces that fell off back on the engine. Why can't them make them like they used to with either metal hand rails or a heaver plastic?
Thanks to everyone for the help.
Just wanted to update everyone on the progress on adding DCC to my GP-9. The LHS let me trade in the decoder for a DH163D. The nine pin decoder seemed like an easy update and I excited to give it a try. The problem is once it was installed nothing happened. Has anyone ever had a Digitrax decoder DOA? Now I am trying to get the decoder back out and put in the original plug to see if the engine still runs. I know Digitrax has a great warranty but is there a way to test the decoder before I send it back to Digitrax?
riogrande5761: Don't worry about taking off the window shades, mine fell off when I took it out the box.
A board repalcement surely would work, Just have to watch out that there is current limiting in place for the bulbs, or replace those horrible bulbs Athearn insists on using in top dollar locos with LEDs.
My method ALWAYS works - but is a bit extreme for a beginner. That being, rip out all the factory boards, and install a (generally cheaper than board replacement with the same features) wired decoder. Keeps you from being caught by some silly error witht he factory board.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Right. But the point is, if one person had problems getting a harnessed pnp decoder to fit, others may also. Just because the decoder is suggested by the manuracturer for a model, doesn't mean it will fit gracefully.
I just wanted to point this out so anyone planning to add a decoder to the Genesis GP9 could save themselve the possible trouble. It sounds like a "safer" bet to go with circuit board replacement decoder than a plug in.
Depends on how big the decoder is. I put sound in one recent AThearn that had the 9 pin plug ont he short harness, using a QSI for 9 pin that the customer supplied me, I was able to flip it over and stuff it down under the cab into the short hood. Don;t bend it back and forth though,t he wire will break. I couldn;t leave the decoder up top because it was too big to clear the speaker enclosure that was up under the fans. So witht he decoder flipped over, I could use a bigger speaker under the dynamic hatch.
I too have a Genesis GP9 DC version and plan to install a non-sound decoder. As far as using harnessed decoders I saw the following post in Atlas Rescue Forums:
Since yesterday was Penn Central Day I purchased a non-sound Penn Central Genesis GP9 at my LHS. So far I am pleased with the unit and the paint and graphics are done well as is most of the detailing. I have a little work to do such as removing the little wind guard windows, replacing he etched metal windshield wipers that stick out too far and replacing those silly sand lines that hang down from the frame but do not connect to the trucks.I had the correct Digitrax decoder that just plugs into the Athearn socket once the dummy plug is removed. This was easy to do and soon enough the unit was doing a nice test run w/o the body.Well Athearn engineering struck again as the Athearn "plug and play" socket is connected to the board with about 4" of wire that when the body is placed on the frame there is not enough clearance! I guess no one thought about that during the design phase.Read more: http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hoforum&action=display&thread=974&page=1#ixzz2LeNmecoP
The DH165A0 is a complete board repalcement for Atlas/Athearn/Kato locos - it completely repalces the board already in the loco, and has wire connections on the ends for the track pickups and lights, and connections on the side for the motor wires.
A 9 pin decoder, like a DH165 or the TCS T1 (of if you need extra functions for ditch lights or anything, T4) will plug right in to the existing board on the end of the short 9 wire cable, after you remove the little board that's there with a couple of components on it, that's the 'dummy plug' that wires together the track pickups, motor wires, and lights for use on DC. Bascially, it connects together the wires that would go to a DCC decoder if one were installed. You unplug that, plug in a decoder, and you're all set. No soldering, nothing more than getting the shell off to get inside.
You MUST remove the dummy plug from the 9-wire socket if you are going to install a decoder into the 8-pin socket, or the decoder will go 'poof'.
That 9 wire connector is where you can plug in the 9 plug DCC decoder. All it is is that you can plug in a decoder rather than the wire swap. If you are replacing the board that connection is not required.
Chris
Check out my railroad at: Buffalo and Southwestern
Photos at:Flicker account
YouTube:StellarMRR YouTube account
rrinker & stilson
Maybe won't work isn't the correct way to put it. The board on the GP-9 has nine wires coming out of it and another plug on the end of those wires. I put a DH165AO in an Atlas GP-7 and the DC board was similarly to the DH165 so it was an easy swap. I am just not sure what all the additional wires are needed for and if the must be soldered to the board.
i will second the question on not working? What do you mean?
Really any decoder should work and unless it cannot fit.
Why doesn't the DH165A0 work? It completely replaces the factory circuit board.
If there's a 9 pin plug, get a TCS T1A (the one with no harness - $1 cheaper). I have a pair of Bowser/Stweart F units, other than one being an A and the other a B, they are identical, same drivetrains and so forth. One has a Tsunami, the other I put a TCS in, the TCS self-adjusting BEMF has it running pretty well witht he Tsunami without making any changes whatsoever.
I just purchased a Genesis GP-9 DC engine and would like to add a DCC decoder. I am not interested in adding sound as I also have one with Tsuami sound. I want to run them together so all I need is a decoder for the new DC engine.
Has anyone added DCC to one of their DC units and if so what decoder did you use. I called Athearn and they said they weren't permitted to advise me of what decoder to use since there were several that I could use. Sounds like a cop out to me so that will be the last Athearn engine I ever buy.
Hope someone can help. I purchased a Digitrax DH165AO per there web site but it doesn't work.
Thanks for any help.
MC Richmond