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Track power to RPO Car

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Track power to RPO Car
Posted by mreagant on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:59 PM

I have a Roundhouse RPO car (current run) that I want to install a Sound Bug in and I'm in need of suggestions for the best way to get power to the decoder.  I'd prefer to use the supplied trucks, but I'm OK with swaping them out if it's not major surgery.

Mike

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
  • 252 posts
Posted by CNR378 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 3:12 PM
  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Posted by mreagant on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 3:34 PM

Looks like it would work.  They show only one 4 wheel passenger truck set-up so I'll contact them and see if they think their designation for Athearn will fit Roundhouse cars.

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: SE Minnesota
  • 6,847 posts
Posted by jrbernier on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:57 PM

  If this is a current run Athearn - It may be glued together so well you will be unable to get it open!

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Posted by mreagant on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:10 PM

No, Jim.  The RPO is a current run Roundhouse that has a roof that comes off quite easily.  I think it is held on by several small magnets.  It is the 4 wheel truck wipers  that say they are for Athearn passenger cars and the question is whether they would work on the Roundhouse trucks.

Mike

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Posted by mreagant on Thursday, January 24, 2013 3:05 PM

I'm in communication with SBS regarding their product and were discussing measurements to see if their 4 wheel passenger wipers will work on Roundhouse trucks.  I'll follow up when I get something solid by way of confirmation.

Mike

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Thursday, January 24, 2013 6:47 PM

jrbernier

  If this is a current run Athearn - It may be glued together so well you will be unable to get it open!

Jim

Jim,

I read someplace recently that Athearn has responded to complaints about that by easing up on the glue on current production. But it's certainly something to keep in mind before getting too far down the road without finding out if you can actually get it apart first.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
  • 252 posts
Posted by CNR378 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 6:49 PM

Another possibility using Kadee centering springs.

http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/

Peter

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:31 PM

Another possibility is applying the wipers directly to the rail tops, which would even bypass plastic wheels on models which have them.  Just make sure that the rail-riding shoes have the ends bent up and enough length to span any gaps they might cross.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Posted by mreagant on Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:57 PM

Peter, I need some electrical guidance here.  If this set up using the KaDee centering springs was used on trucks with metal wheels wouldn't the neolube and sanding steps be eliminated?  And why wouldn't a drop of CA work on each side rather than the tedious business of drilling for a screw?  Finding a screw (2) that size might be tough by itself.

Sounds like an easy option.

Mike

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
  • 252 posts
Posted by CNR378 on Saturday, January 26, 2013 10:28 AM

Sorry Mike,

I have no experience with these. I just remember seeing it and thought I'd share the link in case it worked for you.

Peter

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 1,796 posts
Posted by JoeinPA on Saturday, January 26, 2013 10:58 AM

Mike:

The sanding and Neolube are for appearance. If you don't mind the shiny backs of the wheels you don't need to do it. You will need to use the screws (or some other mechanical fastener) since the truck frames

mreagant

Peter, I need some electrical guidance here.  If this set up using the KaDee centering springs was used on trucks with metal wheels wouldn't the neolube and sanding steps be eliminated?  And why wouldn't a drop of CA work on each side rather than the tedious business of drilling for a screw?  Finding a screw (2) that size might be tough by itself.

Sounds like an easy option.

Mike

are made of Delrin or other engineering plastic and super glue won't hold well to them. If the trucks are metal you might get away with CA or epoxy.

Joe

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