SHABBONA_RYKind of a "heads up", I got a headphone extension cord from the Radio Shack Toy Store earlier today for my GML throttle, and although GML doesn't recommend them, it works and gives me a little more flexibility with this throttle.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Kind of a "heads up", I got a headphone extension cord from the Radio Shack Toy Store earlier today for my GML throttle, and although GML doesn't recommend them, it works and gives me a little more flexibility with this throttle. My answer to walk around operationis to make my line-ups from where the train is, then take the controller and plug it in where I'm going to be next. The throttle cords allow me to meet the incoming train and escort it into town. Works like a charm and adds an impression of distance to the layout.
Bob
That's the general rule, however the RIX uses a six lead cable. I may also have a short somewhere, since the potentiometer gets extremely hot to the touch, which leads me to believe I have some wires reversed somewhere. I may take it apart and rewire it again, but I would like to have a diagram to make sure I'm on the right track
Also, I have ordered a Varipulse unit from Ken Stapleton, but it hasn't shown up yet
There should only be 4 wires - 2 in, and 2 out to the track. It should be fairly obvious looking at it which are which - the two wires that connect ot the direction switch are definitely the output to the track.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Well, I couldn't stay out of this one, so I registered so I could participate.
On Rix rhrottles, does anyone have a wiring diagram of the handheld box? My RIX of thirty years ago quit on me, so I mounted the components on the back of a wall plate and used a plastic outlet box for a body. Somewhere along the line, I must have gotten a couple of wires reversed, because it doesn't work. Since this was one of my favorite throttles (Right up there with my Troller TRH200), I'd like to get it working again, if possible
Also, on the subject of running locomotives in consist (MU), I do it all the time with the locomotives on SHABBONA RR. They are of different manufacturers, but run close enough that the whole consist will rub only as fast as the slowest unit when run in multiple.
The only locomotive that won't MU is an EMD SW-1 that I built from a loosely described Locomotive Workshop brass "kit" back in the late '70's. It is geared too high, but this unit serves as an industrial switcher. If I regeared it to match the road locomotives, it would work as well
Bob Nicholson ( who uses six DC throttles to operate my railroad)