I have mounted speakers upside down over the trucks and there is plenty of sound to be heard.
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I've installed several Tsunamis in diesels. Mine are all first gen. 567's. I like the board style over the plug in type. I installed one in a P2K SD7. I put in a .63" speaker and encloser I bought from Accu-lites. The speaker fit inside the cab. The volume from this speaker is great. The sound level is set around 170 and is plenty lowed for me. Joe
I never tried firing it downward. But the openings in the trucks should be enough. Although likely not as loud.
If you keep them in their enclosure, the ESU speakers will work fine. Just be sure to wire them up in parallel.http://www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/Tech_note%208.pdf
You can pop out the speakers by putting a compass point into the wire hole on the enclosure, and pushing up/out on it. The speaker should pop right out of the enclosure
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I'm installing a TSU-100 decoder with one of soundtraxx's oval speakers. But the speaker's seen better days, and I'm thinking of upgrading it at one point to the two speaker set that was linked by one of the users above. I don't have the option of placing the speaker behind any open holes in the shell (fans, exhaust, etc.) because none of them are see-through. Would it be ok to mount the speaker upside down in the shell? (facing down when assembled) Or would that have too great of an effect on the sound quality?
TRAINZMAN2010,
There's actually more room under the shell than you think, but you still need a nice compact and neat installation and fit. Since there are moving parts within close proximity to small wires, you'll need to make sure the wires aren't loose enough to get wrapped around one of the flywheels.
You haven't indicated which model Tsunami (TSU-1000, TSU-750, AT-1000, GN-1000, etc) you have installed and/or indicated what size and shape speaker you have. These things matter.
Here's a video of my install of a TSU-1000. It's one of my first videos, so it's a little dry:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlhGcChbOjc
Yes I know. I'm thankful that it is too. I was referring to the plastic section underneath the dynamic panel. So I just cut through the plastic until I get it all out and then file the edges on the inside to get rid of the rest and make it smooth? It sounds pretty straightforward. I guess I'll give it a go.
TrainzMan2010 Thanks for the suggestions everyone! Every little bit helps. I figured that area would have to be removed while I was test-fitting. Can anyone give me some tips on removing it? I don't have a dremel tool at the moment, but if it's necessary I can borrow one. Thanks again!
Thanks for the suggestions everyone! Every little bit helps. I figured that area would have to be removed while I was test-fitting. Can anyone give me some tips on removing it? I don't have a dremel tool at the moment, but if it's necessary I can borrow one. Thanks again!
I use rail cutters and a file sometimes. The middle top section pulls out.
Richard
I recently did this conversion myself using the Tsunami (Atlas format board)
I put 4 of these under the fans. (each of the 4 is 8 ohms) It wasn't quite a perfect fit in terms of lining up all four speakers to all 4 fans, but it is very load and clear rivaling many factory installs. If you want I'll post a video.
I used 3m double sided tape squares as a gasket, then I put black electrical tape over the back of the speakers. I then put the decoder over that holding it in place with some more double sided 3M padded tape squares. The speakers are wired up as two series & parallel pairs (Speaker 1 - terminal connects Speaker 2 + terminal. Speaker 3 - terminal connects to Speaker 4 + terminal. Speaker 1 and Speaker 3 + terminal is wired to speaker + connection on the tsunami board. Speaker 2 and Speaker 4 - is wired to speaker - connection tsunami board. This gave me an effective resistance of 7.2 ohms when measured with my multimeter. (This is fine for the tsunami) Hook the headlights and taillights to the 1.5V supply on the board. I hard soldered the wires to the board, all coming off the same side (chip side) and faced that downward so they were fighting for space between the speakers and decoder board. I then taped the excess wire to the decoder board to keep them out of the way of the trucks. I replaced the wires attached to the motor frame ground and made them longer to reach the decoder, and soldered a wire on the brass bar on top of the motor., then put electrical tape over that to prevent a short with the board. If you decide to replace the wire from the trucks, please be sure to put a wet cotton ball on the phosphur bronze tab coming from the truck that carries the electricity. This will absorb excess heat traveling down from the soldering iron and prevent damage to your plastic trucks.
It's a very smooth runner and one of my favorites in terms of diesels. The turbo whine is a very nice distinct sound.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/ESU-DCC-Loudspeakers-Common-Sound-Chamber-p/esu-50327.htm
I just did one of these over Christmas break. Agree with Mark, cut out/clear out the top of the loco shell. I also filed on the sides a little for the speaker under the fan section. I used a medium oval speaker facing down and so had to file it down on the sides a little too. Just used some cardstock and elastic sealant for the remaining walls to make a great enclosure. Adding in your lighting needs to be considered too. Sometimes I use light pipes or clear plastic to help design it in or just put a bulb or led next to original light pipes. In the last one I used function 5 for the light boards and so made up some separaters from the head/rear lights.
Also, use some plastic sheet stock under the decoder to provide protection. I tape that assembly to the motor. Tape up the wires to the top of the locos and make them short enough to not interfere when assembling. Track and motor wires will already be in place and out of the way.
It sounds and works great.
You can gain a fair bit of extra clearance on top of the motor by cutting out the panel under the dynamic hatch. That alone will gain you an almost extra 1/4 inch of clearance above the motor.
Unlike most of todays newer models, the old blue box Athearns aren't full of metal weights - there's plenty of room in the shell for everything to fit quite easily. Just make sure your wires are all bundled so they don't rub on the flywheels or get caught up in the drive shafts.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Hey guys!
I'm installing a Soundtraxx Tsunami Sound Decoder into an older Athearn GP38-2. I want to make this installation go well, but it seems like it's a pretty tight fit. I've hardwired all of the electrical ins and outs (track power, motor, etc.) and removed the old metal bar that delivers power to everything. I've also electrically isolated everything from the frame. If anyone could give me some tips on how to make everything fit without jamming all of the components in there and compromising the movement of the motor or trucks , I would really appreciate it. Keep in mind though that this seems like a 70s or 80s style Athearn engine. It's not one of the newer models. Certainly not a Genesis locomotive.
Thanks!