Thanks Guys.The motor is a can type, and I think you guys have nailed it on the head. This is a loco that has had a rough life. When I got it it had a broken tender frame and broken cab window. Now I have to decide if the loco is worth fixing. I wanted to add a sound decoder, one with that shrill pitch of the old trains.Oh well, I have a cold taken hold, so I'll make that decision in a couple days.
Thanks, you all have been very helpful.
Lee
What type of motor are you talking about? Open frame especially older ones draw a lot of juice to get spinning. Can motors are more efficient because the magnetic fields are contained inside a steel case. You can tune up open frame motors by replacing the old iron magnet with super magnets. You can't beat the torque output of a super magnet open frame motor.
Before you assemble the locomotive with either a new motor or a tuned one make sure the chassis with side rods and valve gear rolls easily. I push mine across a steel plate on the work bench. If it rolls on it it is sure to roll on the rails after assembly.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
rrinkerProbbaly a partially shorted winding - if it was open, the motor would stall on that pole and not restart without actually spinning it.
It does sound like a weak pole caused by a shorted winding. Did you overheat the motor?
Jim
Set the power supply with a meter to somewhere around 12 volts, just to get it steady somewherre, then just diconnect the wires. Put the meter on amps and wire it in and see what the motor draws.
Or try putting the meter on ohms, then slowly turning the motor so as to check the resistence of each coil. Bet one is way lower than the others. Probbaly a partially shorted winding - if it was open, the motor would stall on that pole and not restart without actually spinning it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
My 2-6-0 has been hard to start moving and I have tried all the CVs on the D 13 SRJ, like start voltage, kick, and torque. It still takes a lot of voltage to start. I tried using the speed chart, with the first step being 10. No luck. I removed the motor from the chassis and it still takes high numbers to start turning, even in my hand.This seems to indicate to me that the motor is defective. I don't have a reliable DC power control. It's a slide type control and very erratic.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks Lee