I have Walthers DCC friendly turnouts and have bought a number of Frog Juicers. Where is the preferred spot to solder the feeder to the frog? I did a Google search and could not get a clear explanation to my question. So as always I am asking the experts here. A photo would be great, if you have one.
Thanks.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Brent,
Perhaps this will help: http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/support/frogjuicers.html
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
According to the Walthers web site, there is a connection on the turnout to change the frog from insulated to live. It's probably a wire on the under side of the frog . Did any instuctions come with the turn out? Joe
Brent.
Are you sure you need them? How long is the frog?
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Feeding the Frog:
Time's fun when you are having flies.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
BroadwayLion Feeding the Frog: Time's fun when you are having flies. ROAR
QUIT SPAMMING EVERY SINGLE THREAD WITH USELESS COMMENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Depends on the turnout. Atlas COde 83 have a hole next to the frog, but don;t try to solder a wire there, the metal they use is very hard to solder, and you'll more than likely end up melting the ties holding the frog in place. What I do is thread in a brass screw, I think it's a 1-72. It self-taps easily enough, so I didn;t bother tapping. I use a short screw, thread it in from underneath (before I lay the turnout..so if you've already got the track down, from the top is the only way) and then solder my feeder wire to the brass screw, which solders easily.
Apparantly if you call Atlas you cna get just the hardware that comes witht he Deluxe Undertable Switch Machine, which includes screws, nuts, and brass bar which in the switch machine kit is used to connect the frog to the pwoer routing contacts. This gets attached to the hole in the frog and then you can solder wires to either the screw, nut, or brass bar.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks everyone.
Pete I have a Bachmann Spectrum 4-4-0 (first of many smaller steamers, I hope) that won't clear my #8 & #10 turnouts. Anything smaller and it sails right through. The Frog Juicer seems like a good way to resolve the situation at this point in time.
I found one photo and answer on a Yahoo forum that showed the feeder soldered to the wing rail on the Walthers T/O. Will this work? Do I check with an Ohm Meter to see if they are connected? I would rather not lift a T/O for a look see if I don't have to.
I don't have a photo but this year I used 18 or so Walthers Shinohara code 83 DCC friendly turnouts on my new layout. New to DCC, I decided to power all frogs, from #5s to curved 7-1/2s. Mine are powered via the Tortoise aux contacts. I used a hobby knife to cut out part of the wide plastic under the frog. It took several swipes of the knife, then was able to pop or pry it off. It needed some Dremel wire brushing before soldering on a 22 gage feeder wire. When installing the turnout over cork roadbed, I marked the location and drilled a generous (1/4") hole for this and a 3/8" hole for the throwbar Tortoise wire.
After the fact, I'd argue powering the frogs (or at least add the wire to facilitate later powering) with installation is not that much extra work. With the Tortoise having the aux contacts, that helps. I didn't investigate the juicer but understand many like those as well.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
BATMANI have Walthers DCC friendly turnouts and have bought a number of Frog Juicers. Where is the preferred spot to solder the feeder to the frog?
I *THINK* the frog assembly is electrically continuous, so if you solder a feeder to the wing rail it will power the entire frog. The assemblies used to be soldered together inside the plastic ties on the old Shinohara/Walthers turnouts, as I've used salvaged frogs from a couple of those on handlaid turnouts in the past, and I could clearly see they were soldered around the base of the rail once the plastic ties were removed.
Assuming the current product uses the same basic assembly doesn't necessarily make it so, so I'd be sure to check your examples for continuity with a meter. If the wing rails aren't connected electrically, there's still enough to the frog point where you could solder a feeder to one of the frog point rails, but using the wing rail would probably be easier. You shouldn't have to pull up any track to accomplish this.
Rob Spangler
rrinkerAtlas COde 83 have a hole next to the frog, but don;t try to solder a wire there, the metal they use is very hard to solder,
Hi Randy,
I've had some of those Atlas turnouts with the zinc potmetal frogs. Someone at Atlas must be paying attention since the turnouts I bought about two years ago have a bronze or copper alloy tab routed under the tie and it is a breeze to solder a feeder wire to. I have a hex frog juicer feeding these and it makes for flawless continuity through the frog.
I've used the Tortoise aux contacts on some of my Shinohara power routing (un-DCC friendly) and unless you have the points timed exactly with the electrical feed from the aux contact I'd get a breif short, enough to make all the engines in that district hiccup, even after prying out the bronze contact strip under the throwbar.
Which size is that? My #4's are fairly new and still do it the old way. Pictures show the #8's with the side tab like yours, maybe the new #6's, but the 4's still show with the hole right next to the frog like always.
Oh, this is a #8. I haven't seen a #4 so maybe Atlas hasn't modified that one yet. Back to the brass screw I guess?
Take care, Ed