i use the plastic clips that comes with your bread loafs. they come in different sizes and colors so you can color coordinate them. just write down what the wire description is and clip them on.
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I like my Brother labelmakers. Not the cheapest thing you can use, but I think the advantages are worth the small cost. Unless you're the only one who will ever need to read the labels, it's easier for everyone if you print them. They stick to the wires easily by simply folding over and bending back to self-attach. Cost depends on the quality of the label used and there are lots of choices. There's no need for a waterproof label under the layout on wiring (at least I hope not!), so use the cheap stuff to print them.
I recently upgraded to a much nicer one for the same as what the first cost me, $20. The real cost is in the labels, so always see how much a labelmaker will cost to feed before buying.
A good labelmaker won't just let you label wiring. You can also use it up top on panels and indicators. The new labelmaker is quite versatile and makes nicer looking labels, so I replaced many of the older ones with new. I even used it for some temp signage on a few buildings when I didn't want to bother with firing up Photoshop.
There have been some good comments about using a consistent wiring system consisting of various sizes, form-factors, and colors, etc to identify wiring and simplify trouble-shooting. I agree and that's how my layout's wired. Makes troubleshooting easy. However, this doesn't mean you don't need labels. The wiring system cues can substitute for many labels, but not all. Plus it's always easier to read a label than trace a wire underneath the benchwork later on.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
dbduck For circuits requiring higher amperage rated connectors, I have used Cinch "Jones" 300 series connectors. Also called TRW "jones" connectors they come in various number of contacts..from 2 up to 33 They are rated at 10 amps apiece Here is an example of a p-306cct http://www.arcade-electronics.com/TRW_P_306_CCT_p/trw-p-306-cct.htm
For circuits requiring higher amperage rated connectors, I have used Cinch "Jones" 300 series connectors. Also called TRW "jones" connectors they come in various number of contacts..from 2 up to 33
They are rated at 10 amps apiece Here is an example of a p-306cct
http://www.arcade-electronics.com/TRW_P_306_CCT_p/trw-p-306-cct.htm
Another type of connector, one which is used extensively by the N-Trak group, is the Anderson Powerpole connectors.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html
(sorry, couldn't figure out how to make it clickable)
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
SUX V R40 Rider I have started out by using masking tape and a sharpie for right now. Eventually I will use something different that looks a bit more professional and smaller, especially when I put the finishing touches on the layout. An example of how I am labeling is: For the passing siding remote turnouts they are labeled as: PSRTO1 and PSRTO2. I am using different colors of wiring. One reason is the wire color of the remote turnouts is green. To extend them I used 18 gauge which is red with crimp on red butt splicers. As another part of the wire or cable management I am using cable ties to keep it all organized and running together where possible. On the surface of the control deck/panel/console I am using various plastic cable staples to attach the wiring to the to the wood deck. I do wish there was a quick release way to do this for when I have to move the control console away from the layout. For now I'll have to pry up the staples and disconnect the wires from the terminal blocks. I think eventually I might splice in pull apart plug connectors on each wire.
I have started out by using masking tape and a sharpie for right now. Eventually I will use something different that looks a bit more professional and smaller, especially when I put the finishing touches on the layout.
An example of how I am labeling is:
For the passing siding remote turnouts they are labeled as: PSRTO1 and PSRTO2.
I am using different colors of wiring. One reason is the wire color of the remote turnouts is green. To extend them I used 18 gauge which is red with crimp on red butt splicers.
As another part of the wire or cable management I am using cable ties to keep it all organized and running together where possible. On the surface of the control deck/panel/console I am using various plastic cable staples to attach the wiring to the to the wood deck.
I do wish there was a quick release way to do this for when I have to move the control console away from the layout. For now I'll have to pry up the staples and disconnect the wires from the terminal blocks. I think eventually I might splice in pull apart plug connectors on each wire.
As Chuck said, use plugs and sockets to detach the cables from the control panel. Instead of staples that you have to pry up and replace each time, use velcro ties. One side has loops, the other side has hooks. They have a slot in one end that the long part passes through then you wrap the tie around itself and the velcro sticks to each other. I think if you stapled the wide end to the benchwork you could wrap the other end around the cables so that the velcro sticks to itself and holds the wires in place.
Paper from my computer printer attached with rubber cement at the terminal blocks.
Masking tape on the wires temporarily while I am running them.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
The best multi-wire quick disconnects I have found are the old-style D connectors used for computer cables. I have found them with anywhere from eight to fifty wires, but the 25 wire RS-232 type are the most common. I buy the bare plug and socket sets, then solder #22 wire into the appropriate places. Mine power the removable throats of my staging yards - solid wire at the fixed (anchored to the framework) end and stranded wire to the removable side.
If you need heavier wire, three by one trailer hitch connectors can handle bus wire sizes.
My benchwork is built of steel studs, so it comes with built-in wire channels...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964
I use a black Sharpie on either plain pine wood or yellow styrene, labeling terminals on my stud-and-nut terminal blocks with a distinctive code that specifically identifies each wire.
I also have detailed circuit schematics, and text tables that spell out what each code means:
NNT01R - Reverse-coil power to the switch machine of turnout NNT01. NN represents Nonomura, a zone deep in the netherworld. Found on the zone panel terminal block and on the terminal strip adjacent to NNT01 . NNT01R has three segments: Panel control (rotary switch) to panel terminal block, to turnout terminal strip, to the switch machine reverse coil.
My Dymo labelmaker is used to make track line labels on my control panels - with electrical track section numbers punched into the tape.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with electricals as bulletproof as possible)
I use a few different methods. Some of my wires have a piece of masking tape folded over them and I write on the tape with a felt pen (ballpoint pens don't really play nice with masking tape). I haven't had any of these come off yet. As someone pointe out, use a good quality masking tape like 3M/Scotch. I've tried self adhesive labels but they fall off in a year or less. They stick well to paper but not to themselves. I use lugs to attach wires to terminal strips and I write the terminal number on the lug's insulating sleeve with a felt pen. The terminal strip gets a piece of masking tape along it with the matching numbers on it. Some people have used the closers from bread packages to label wires. The disadvantage there is that the hole is bigger than the wires and the closers tend to slide down the wire. They're good for marking wires and cables that have plugs on their ends though. One advantage is that they come in different colours (that supposedly tells you which day of the week the bread was baked). You can buy tie-on tags at a stationery supply store too.
I can only emphasize what many others have said about keeping a record in a book of all your wiring--where each wire starts and ends, what colour each is and what it's used for. You'll be glad you did that years from now when you have to troubleshoot an electrical problem.
No matter what you choose - KEEP IT SIMPLE and Stay on Task. There's no point in "over-complicating it". There have been plenty of inexpensive and easy ideas offered. Don't spend your money on a label maker, use your money for more important stuff like TRAINS!!
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One thing that can help is to use different colored wire for different purposes. I understand you are on a budget and may be too far down the road with wiring now. BUT, you could still use masking tape, tags etc, and use different colored sharpies for the different wire uses. Its also good idea as others have suggested to make a list of the numbered wires. It can be a simple list, written in a journal or list your wire numbers on a simple wiring schematic.
LION gets surplus wires from many sources, color means nothing.
There are under the layout
1) An uninsulated copper braid - Common GROUNDED to EARTH
2) Two insulated 18 GA bus wires (+12vdc and -12vdc) Call them red or green and so labeled at access points though the color of the wire could be anything. Mostly used for layout lighting, could be used for 24 v relays.
3) a single 14 GA wire tapped with suitcases to provide +12v DC to the tracks from the big 15A regulated supply (-12vdc is grounded) [Train only goes in one direction, after all]. Most users would need to make this a pair of conductors for DCC or even more for DC with Blocks.
4) several 25 pair cat-3 telephone cables (50 conductors) affording access between the layout and the control panel. These cables have access points about every 15 to 20 feet, the panels are made of wood with brass nails stuck in it. They are numbered 1-50 (or 51-100, etc) and these control turnouts, signals, timers and relays. If I had lots of money, these would be regular telephone punch down blocks, but I do not and they are not.
THE RECORD: Just record the pin number.
Pin 16 = Turnout and Signal on track A1 at chain marker 215. (or name the turnout... Uptown local to express at Prospect Park) . It does not matter what I am looking at I can see pin 16, and I know where its wire goes. It connects between the Switch Lever in the tower and the Switch Points on the layout.
If it could be any simpler, I'll surely find a way to make it more complicated.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I have used round key tags in the past, as well as cable ties with flags.
http://www.buy.com/prod/avery-key-tag-metal-50-pack-clear/205780896.html?listingId=236406039
A lesser expensive alterative to the tags is to make your own tags out of heavy paper similar to greeting card material..punch a hole & attach to wiring bundle with a "bread tie"
I too have a color code system for my wiring,
Purple & grey==DCC
Red 24v+
white 24v CT
Black 24v -
switch machine pairs...blue & green or yellow & orange
I also agree that there is no such thing as too much documentation,
I work as an electricain at a large commercial facility (over a million square feet.) been there for over 38 years...unless it was something obviously simple I would document., make drawings, etc of most everything I work(ed) on..down to what type light bulbs certain areas require....helps if you get a call that such & such's office has a light out
..I am not going to be around forever..hopefully it will help those after me..wish it had been done before I had gotten there
Yes, definitely write it down. Tape has a tendency to come off, and also that's why I said use a Sharpie, it's more permanent than writing on the tape with a pencil or regular pen. And unless you use BIG pieces of tape to write a whole paragraph on.... much easier to use a key and keep a log. Now, if I could only remember where my log is...LOL. Actually, it's in my railroad folder, safely stored on at least 3 physical hard drives.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I'm kind of with Elmer on this, except that while I keep a detailed record of my wiring, I have practically nothing labeled under the layout. With my "system", there's no need to.
What I did was set up a color/gauge code right from the start, and I stick with it religiously.
Red and green 14 gauge? That's power district #1, from point X to point Y on the layout.
Clear zip cord? 12VDC for my DS64's (White stripe is negative, because pigtails on the 2.1mm plugs I bought have the striped lead connected to the outer barrel, which is negative on a DS64.)
Blue and yellow 22 gauge? DS64 to Tortoise.
And so on...
Randy brought up a good point. Even though you may think you know what the wires are going to and all, it would be a good idea to keep some type of documentation of your wiring.
I have a loose-leaf note book that I use for that. I don't document everything, but I do keep records of most things. If I have a couple of different ways that I wire switch machines, I document them with a drawing of each type. Then I list what machines used which type of wiring. I also label my main power and accessory buses.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Cheapest? Masking tape and write on it with a Sharpie. I picked up a pack of wire labels at Home Depot for cheap and use those, each wire has a number and I keep a reference journal of it. The wire labels have many of each number, so long runs have multipel tags along their length so I don;t have to always trace back to the end.
I have a bunch of small tags with string on them.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Masking tape works just fine for labeling and is quite economical. I would pick a better quality tape like 3M because the adhesive is better, the tape thicker, and it's less likely to dry out and get crumbly. You could even use the blue painter's tape for variety.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I go as simple as possible and use adhesive labels from the office supply store. I write the ID for the wire or bundle and fold the label over the wire and on to itself. I don't know how long these will last before the adhesive gives out but most have been in place for about 10 years with no problem.
Joe