Ok Thanks. I will try the tape. These new NWSL motors dont have holes. Im very weary of drilling any holes. Thanks for the info.
LocojunkieI can drill holes and screw it down to the gear box as stated in the web site but I dont want to screw a hole into the new NWSL 1630 motor though. I dont think that would be a good idea. I may just use the black silicone to attach it to the top of the NWSL 1630 motor.
There used to be holes drilled in the old NWSL motors. I would not drill my own. Use some 3m double side tape to test your mounting. It is pretty strong. You can always use the silicone after you are happy with the placement.
Jim
How to use a multimeter. You definitely need to learn this. The meters are about $4.00 from Harbor Freight. I have three of them.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
If you can learn how to use a PC and the Internet, you can learn how to use a meter. Cheap to replace if you break it.
Rich
]
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I flipped the arm of the press over, I was using the wrong end of the press arm. I was using the end that the bit fits into when I should have been using the other end. Also I used the drill bit to make certain the hole was slightly big enough. I also suspect that the original flywheel was not the correct size. Now I have to install a torque arm though. I can drill holes and screw it down to the gear box as stated in the web site but I dont want to screw a hole into the new NWSL 1630 motor though. I dont think that would be a good idea. I may just use the black silicone to attach it to the top of the NWSL 1630 motor.
LocojunkieThe old open frame motor had but one wire. A black one that is attached to the back of the locomotive to the frame.
I believe that wire should attach to the tender, not the frame of the loco.
LocojunkieI had trouble installing a fly wheel on a previous new motor and bent the shaft. (see other post I made previous to this one) I was able to install the other flywheel on the motor with no problem.
I remember that post, if you don't mind me asking what did you do differently?
Thanks to all. The old open frame motor had but one wire. A black one that is attached to the back of the locomotive to the frame. I was told I need to use a volt meter to look for the dead short. First testing the tender then taking it off the track and testing the locomotive. Since I have never used a volt meter to test before it confused me. But everything that you say Tom makes perfect since to me. This is the first time I have had to repower a locomotive before. I had trouble installing a fly wheel on a previous new motor and bent the shaft. (see other post I made previous to this one) I was able to install the other flywheel on the motor with no problem. I didnt know how to hook up this new motor with only one wire. I will have to see which terminal is positive and which is negative on the new 1630 NWSL motor.
I also have a OMI 4-8-4 RF&P that I am about to regear soon as well. The motor here is still good but I got a new NWSL motor for it as well. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Before you embark on another project like this please take a moment to study the existing configuration. I find it helpful to take some digital photos for future reference and draft some simply wiring diagrams. On most brass steam locomotives, the loco frame itself is energized by the right set of driver wheels (engineer’s side). For the sake of this discussion, we will call this the positive rail and will use a red wire color. The tender is usually powered by the left or negative rail and we’ll use black as the wire color.
The drawbar that connects the tender to the loco is the negative power connection to loco. Its attachment point to the loco is usually via an insulated bolt. This bolt will have a wire attached. To provide the negative power feed to the motor, you need to attach the wire from the drawbar connection to the negative pole on the motor. These are always marked on NWSL motors. You then need to attach the positive feed from the loco frame to the positive motor terminal.
The positive feed from the loco frame can be a challenge at times. On some models, the feed to the “old” motor might have been through the motor casing itself and there might not be a positive wire to attach to the new motor. This presents a problem because the motor case on a can motor is electrically insulated from the workings of the motor itself. If you lack a positive feed wire from the loco frame, you will either need to solder a wire to an inconspicuous part of the frame or drill and tap a location to attach the wire with a screw. Again, since this is the positive connection, I like to use a red wire for this purpose. You then can solder the wire to the positive terminal on the motor.
Good luck,
Tom
I believe that the correct connection is when the right hand rail (engineers side) is positive the loco moves forward.
Joe
I think you may have missed the point of his question.
There is a correct polarity on the rails so the loco moves in the forward direction. I think that is what he is asking for. I don't recall what that polarity is either, but if you have another DC loco available to you, you should be able to figure it out through testing and the use of a volt meter.
Hopefully someone that really knows will post the answer.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Non DCC: Brass usually has the engine frame wired as one polarity and the tender wired to the opposite polarity. Typically one wire goes from the motor contacts to the frame of the engine and the other goes to the insulated tender pin to get power from the tender via the draw bar.
DCC: Both wires go to the decoder. Motor is electrically isolated from the frame. The decoder gets one feed from the engine frame and the other from the tender frame.
Some multi meter testing may be in order to see where the electricity is flowing and if the insulation scheme is intact. One typical gotcha is tender trucks installed backwards (dead short or wrong polarity)
Google Mark Schutzer for lots more info on this...
Good luck with the install,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Hi again. I recently repowered my PFM 2-8-0 with a NWSL 1630 motor. How do I wire the new motor? Thanks!