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Athearn Genesis decoder issue....

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Posted by hobo9941 on Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:38 PM

"Plug and Play" is a cruel joke on newbies.Whistling

Plug and play only applies to small, motor only, decoders. Each sound installation presents it's own set of problems, usually space for the speaker and the decoder. Sound decoders are bigger than the motor only decoders. I have done around 60 sound installations, in various locos, of various brands. I have yet to plug one in and play!

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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:32 PM

 If you are using the TSU-AT1000, I believe that is configured to use the 1.5V bulbs that Athearn puts in with no additional resistors. To use LEDs there are jumpers to bridge to bypass the on-board resistors and you will need a resistor on each LED.

                   --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by ba&prr on Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:43 AM

Since this board is for the Athearn unit I don't think LED's will work. Measure the out put for the lamps and it will probably be 1.5 Volts as Athearn uses them. From the photo it looks like the top of the weight on the right side comes out.. How ever, look at the center cut out. This is to clear the part where the 1.5 Volt bulbs go. A small speaker could go there, just make sure it will clear the protrusion where the head light bulbs go. If you want to use LED's Soundtrax has a board for Bowser units with the 567 engine loaded. I put one of these in a P2K SD7 so I could use the LED's that came with it.  Joe  

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Posted by AllenB on Wednesday, December 5, 2012 11:05 AM

Thanks Randy...her is what is on Soundtraxx website:

"Another custom Hyperlight feature is the LED Brightness Correction. An LED exhibits a much different output response than an incandescent bulb. As a result, LEDs were historically not recommended for use with the lighting effects, as they tended to be over-bright and a bit lifeless. Tsunami now provides a control mode that corrects for the output differences resulting in a more eye-popping effect regardless of which type of light is used."

Looks like I can just swap in LEDs and call it a day. Any recommendations on LEDs?...I know nothing about them.

Allen

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Posted by hobo9941 on Tuesday, December 4, 2012 11:48 PM

Directly beneath that adapter board are two phillips screws. Remove them, and the entire weight comes off, leaving room for a small oval speaker. It may or may not reduce the pulling capacity of the loco, depending on how many cars you pull, and any grades on your layout. You might be able to add weight back, using lead shot or other small weights, after installing the speaker. Shouldn't be too difficult.

Several times, I spent an hour grinding on a weight, to make room for a speaker, when the common sense finally kicked in, and I just removed the weight. Duh.

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Posted by AllenB on Tuesday, December 4, 2012 9:12 PM

God please tell me that's not true. Looking at the schematic that came with it, it looks like the rear weight comes out and a speaker enclosure goes in. Honestly the guys at Athearn didn't seem to know a whole lot about the situation when I called. I can't seem to find a place that sells the DCC/Sound NKP GP9 in stock. So if that is the case, I may be sending my DC unit back and let the waiting game begin.

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Posted by Southwest Chief on Tuesday, December 4, 2012 1:14 AM

Santa Fe all the way!
Since this loco is available with sound, there should be a dedicated spot for the speaker. Measure and order a speaker. Should be pretty easy and straight forward install.

You'd think that.  But I contacted Athearn about this exact question and they said only the sound equipped GP7 and GP9 have the frame milled for the speaker.

So I went with the factory sound equipped version for my GP7.  Took a little time to find the one I wanted, but I eventually found one.

But at least the OP has the Tsunami 828050.  It comes with more horn choices then the factory installed locos.  The 828050 has the horn my model should have...but I don't really want to spend a lot more $ just to get the right horn.

Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, CO
Click Here for my model train photo website

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Posted by rrinker on Monday, December 3, 2012 7:19 PM

LOL no. People did call my Dad "Rinky-dink" but I'm not sure if that was ever to his face or not.

With the initials RR it was alyways a sure thing I'd get into trains.

 

              --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, December 3, 2012 6:28 PM

Santa Fe all the way!

I agree with trinket

Randy, gosh darn, is that your nickname?  Kinda cute.   Laugh

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by AllenB on Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 PM

Hey thanks randy. So basically this decoder http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/SoundTraxx-Tsunami-Decoder-828050-TSU-GN1000-p/stx-828050.htm.  that I bought would replace the adapter board....all I would need to do is disconnect all of the wires on it and reconnect to the sides of the new decoder. And then of course add a speaker some how.


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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, December 2, 2012 6:55 PM

 That's the way most every loco is these days, they all have directional lights on DC, and the board provides a palce to connect a decoder. That little thing at the right on the end of the wires is a 'dummy plug' that bypasses the deocder for DC use. You need to unplug that, then you cna plug the decoder into one fo two palces - either the 9 pin plug where the dummy plug was removed, or the 8 pin connector sitting on the main board. For sound though your best bet is ro remove it all and get a sound decoder in the Athearn/Atlast circuit board format, it will directly repalce the main board and the wires will connect in approximately the same place - front and rear outside to the wheel pickups, front and rear center to the headlights (if the decoder says it has resistors for low voltage light boulbs you need to do nothing more, otherwise youwill need to repalce the (poor) Athearn light bulbs with preferably LEDs with a resistor on each one), and motor to the connections on the side. This will leave the most space for a speaker.

It sounds a lot harder than it really is. The hardest part is shoehorning the speaker and enclusore in, you may have to remove or cut down some of the weight or frame to fit it. The only locos I know of that are 'plug and play' for sound are the newer Atlas Silver series (the Gold series have sound and DCC - the Silver series use the exact same frame so the speaker mounts are already there, no cutting or grinding needed) and some recent Kato diesels, although the speaker space is in the fuel tank and that's not the best place for it. And some Bachmann steam locos come with the speaker mount in the tender ready to go.

          --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by AllenB on Sunday, December 2, 2012 6:29 PM

I would have bought one but these things are selling like hotcakes. I could not find a NKP in DCC sound. Everyone was sold out so I bought a DC version for a great price thinking I could install the decoder and come out even. It is a DC loco...however when I open it up it looks like there IS a decoder in it. But it will not program on the programming track.

Above is the picture of my loco opened up. The Athearn directions call this board a "DCC Adapter board". It says "pull off the dummy plug from the end of the 9 pin wire harness extending from the top of the Adapter Board. Then install the decoder of your choice onto the wire harness." It almost looks like the decoder I have would replace this adapter board but the Athearn instructions don't mention the removal of this board making it seem like the decoder goes on TOP of this board?!?

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Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Sunday, December 2, 2012 3:48 PM
I agree with trinket, usually you can buy a sound equipped loco for close to the same price as adding it yourself. Did you look at the instruction sheet for the decoder? It should tell you that the decoder replaces the OEM light board, no soldering required. Since this loco is available with sound, there should be a dedicated spot for the speaker. Measure and order a speaker. Should be pretty easy and straight forward install.
Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!
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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, December 1, 2012 12:02 AM

 Not for sound. Speakers and enclosures are sold seperately. There's no one size fits all for speakers, you want the biggest speaker and enclosure you can fit for the best sound, and a speaker than can fit in a wide F unit shell won't fit in a small switcher. ANd if you got the Athearn format decoder there are no wires, none are needed, it replaces the standard light board.

 Likely for less than the price of the decoder as an aftermarket item you can get that Genesis loco with the decoder and speaker already installed.

             --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • 31 posts
Athearn Genesis decoder issue....
Posted by AllenB on Friday, November 30, 2012 11:43 PM

Okay...ordered an Athearn Genesis GP9 and ordered a Tsunami Soundtraxx decoder. The decoder said "plug and play format" in the description. Well to my surprise when I pulled it out of the package...it contains NO speaker and no wires to "plug and play. I thought this was a simple "plug and play" decoder needing nothing. Needless to say I'm none too happy. Is the industry standard of "plug and play" mean you have to solder the thing in and install your own speaker? Is there a decoder that is truly plug and play?

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