I have 8 Shinohara curved switches that are controlled by the turnout settings. Six are #6's and two are # 8's. The have been operating fine but now the two #8 seem to not work. One doesn't go through the inside and the other one doesn't go through the outside curve. I have both of them gaped at both of the curved routes. I have cleaned both of them and checked to see if they were binding but nothing seems to work.
Does anyone have any idea of what I could check next?
Thanks for any advice.
MC
C & O Steam.... One doesn't go through the inside and the other one doesn't go through the outside curve. ..
Are they the "old" power-routing type or the newer DCC-friendly type?
The under-rail wipers that are part of the throw-bar assembly may have broken or otherwise stopped making contact with the stock rails. They can be carefully - very carefully! - raised to restore contact.
If DCC-friendly, the under-rail power connection from stock rail to stock rail may have failed (it can be replaced by soldering your own small gauge wire to the rails in question.
Check with a multimeter to see which rails have power and which do not when points are switched.
Dante
Have you used a voltmeter to figure out which leg has died?
-D
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
LION does not use mulit-meters. Him burns them out and then throws them across the room.
LION took a 9 volt battery put a 1000KΩ resistor and an LED on it. Him then can probe switches and other things to see what is happening.
the LION of last resort is to isolate all six rails on the turnout, and then wire it to work with whatever route is selected. LION does this with all of his complicated ironworks.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Assuming that you have the older non-DCC ready shinohara turnout I'll bet it is those brass connectors under the throw bar that connect to the stock rails. Is is a very unreliable way of getting the frog some current. Short term you can fiddle with them and probably get it to work again. Long term I would isolate the frog and rework the turnout into a DCC-friendly version and then wire the frog separately. Much more reliable. - Nevin
Lions need to remember not to connect probes of meter set in resistance mode to a live circuit
Meter will be much happier.
The battery and LED are fine for a simple continuity meter, btu connect it to pwoered track with the polarity right and you could get 12V track + 9V from the battery through the LED and pop goes the LED. Same rule, not for use on live circuits. The VOLT mode of the meter is for checking live circuits
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. While checking the power to each route I found that there was intermittent power so after a closer review of the switches I found some dirt that was causing the points not to close all the way.
They are the older Shinohara so I will probably try and determine the best way to make them DCC friendly. Since they are already down it may turn out to be a major issue.
Thanks again and HAPPY RAILROADING.
C&O FOREVER
Another thought: If you don't use turnout controls that exert pressure on the points to maintain contact with the stock rails, do so. (For example, Caboose Industries sprung ground throws.)
C & O SteamThey are the older Shinohara so I will probably try and determine the best way to make them DCC friendly. Since they are already down it may turn out to be a major issue.
If it's impractical to re-work the turnouts into "DCC friendly" configuration, consider powering the point/closure rail assemblies with Tam Valley "Frog Juicers." The juicer was intended to power otherwise dead frogs on DCC friendly turnouts, but is also just as useful for ensuring reliable electrical flow on the older live frog types. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccpowerfrogjuicers.html The hex juicer can power up to six turnouts.
Rob Spangler
I have found you can isolate the point by gluing very thin styrene to the contact point of the point (note very thin). Paint also works but tends not to be permanent. For those turnouts with the copper bumps for power (bumps for lack of a better word), these bumps can be cut off.