A friend of mine messed up a function and i believe he was able to remap and use another light function for front light.Steve
I wouldn't use a 12V bulb if you connect it directly to track power, it will get quiet warm being on all the time and could melt the shell. On DC it works ok because you aren't at full throttle all the time, but since DCC is full voltage on the rails all the time it's not so great. If you want to go that route, use a white LED and a 1K resistor. No heat.
I suggest the rest just as a sanity check, sometimes decoders come out of the package with CVs set to other than the defaults, either through some glitch or a remnent of having been tested when manufacturered. That's generally the first thing I do, so I don't wind up frustrated chasing a problem I think is something I hooked up wrong, or a defective part, only to find that the reason the headlight isn't going on is that the CVs are set so that F0 turns it on. Assuming all that checks out, it's probably a defective decoder. Should be able to get it replaced, but I'm not sure what NCE's policy is if you've soldered to the decoder - which is tough because that's the only way to install this one.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks! I originally soldered an LED to the top and bottom locations before I soldered a bridge and before I installed a beacon and the headlight (LED) still did not work. That is why I decided to try a 12 volt bulb instead. I can get the bulb to light using other "holes" on the decoder but they are not controlled using F0.
Maybe I can just use one of these connections and have the headlight on all the time. F0 does control the rear light just fine. I have not messed around with the CV's yet. That is a good suggestion.
Dale
You didn;t get a solder bridge between the little hole to the left of center and the LED connector on the top, or to the diode that's right there, did you?
I installed one of these once, just sodlered on an LED as indicated, longer wire on top, shorter wire on bottom (top is +, bottom is -) and it just worked. Don't try an LED witht he X marked location bridged, or it will blow the LED and probably blow the function.
Also try resetting the decoder in case the programming for the beacon messed up the normal headlight operation.
I recently installed an NCE SW9SR decoder in a Proto SW8/900 switcher. Motor, rear light, and a rotary beacon(controlled by F1) I installed work great. My problem is the headlight. There is no power at either of the sites shown in the directions (both LED or 12-14 volt locations). In trying a 12-14 volt bulb, I bridged "x" and still got nothing. Any suggestions?