They don't but the dry time increases with a lower temp, at least the ones I have seen so far. Remember there is no tention on these wire unlike if is on an engine. Like I said there are hundreds of products out there and even if the solution works, I am sure most of the product out there do not fill the bill but one of them proubly dose. It took quite a bit of resurch and some experimentatation to find Posi-taps and work out the details of use, time I could have better spent building my empire. Same is true in this case I guess.
rrebell,
Be sure that those silver epoxies don't require heat to cure properly.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Ok, I found some more resurch and they have silver epoxys that are less conductive to currant than solder, still a lot of resurch to do which I was hoping to avoid.
Like I said, I know people have tried this stuff and the artical on the paint, they used it like a glue so I just assumed.
I googled [GF Electronics] Silver Paint II and read the Technical Data Sheet from Newark's web site. As the name implies, Silver Paint II is a silver (conductive) paint (not an epoxy) with a lacquer base. That's two completely different things. (An epoxy is usually two-part; with a base adhesive and an accelerator.)
According to the description, the purpose of the Silver Paint II is "for PC repair or add-on circuit traces" and - most likely - is meant to be applied in a thin layer. If that is the case then the lacquer would probably require you to apply it in several applications.
Since it does seem like you've already made up your mind, rrebell, buy a bottle and try it out. $79 for a 1/2 troy oz. seems awfully steep though. I would still increase the size of the hole underneath so that you can determine whether you have adequate adhesion between the new feeder wire and the old one.
It sounds like you have made up your mind so why don't you try it and let us know the results?
Joe
I have many tunnels, this is a 15x30+ layout. The total tunnel length is 4' with an open at one end (other end has a portal, kinda hard to get in there). Now on to to the facts!!!!!!!! Solder has a resitance of .07 ohms, one epoxy (silver print II ) has a resitance of .08, not much difference in our applications.
Just a thought:
If you reach deep inside your tunnel and apply conductive epoxy, and the end result is not satisfactory, what will you need to do to remedy the problem deep in the tunnel? Can you get the epoxy back off?
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
You stated to me that your tunnel is 4' long. You told Dave that the "area where you need to connect the wire" is 4'. So...which is it?
From what I can surmise so far, you have at least one (1) turnout and a couple of pieces of flex track inside your tunnel. How many total track joints inside your tunnel do you have? Could you solder the track joints outside the tunnel and would that be sufficient to provide power to your track inside the tunnel?
Also, yes - there are many ways to do things. However, the point is is that soldering and applying conductive epoxy do NOT yield the "same" results. Conductive epoxy may work but - electrically - soldering is still superior for supplying ample power to your track - i.e. with the least amount of resistance.
Using conductive epoxy or copper tape to power interior lighting is one thing; powering your track is an entirely different matter. You may not get the results on that portion of your track with the epoxy that you would with soldering.
Getting back to your issue. If access into the hole from below is awkward for soldering, it ain't gonna be much fun for applying epoxy and being sure that you have adequate contact either. Can you make the hole around the needed repair larger with a hole saw - something in the 1" OD range? Then you pick whatever method you want for making the electrical contact to your track.
Just an idea...
4' and I can solder fine to a point but it is a skill I rairly need and there are many ways to do things with the same results!!!!!!!!!!!!! In fact all my new feeders are fine but this was old work. Also while we are on the subject of soldering feeders, why dose no one ever tell people to melt the wire into the plastic spikes if one gets in the way, had to learn that one myself on a feeder that rode too high.
I understand if you are reluctant to learn to solder. You wouldn't be the first. You can buy track joiners that already have power drops attached, but you still need to be able to reach the track to install them. Perhaps what you need is a section of scenery that can be lifted off the layout when needed. How deep in the tunnel is the area where you need to connect the wire?
Phoebe Vet It's pretty obvious that you are not seeking advise but rather are looking to have people validate a decision you have already made. The posters have all advised you that glue is not a great idea and have offered other solutions to your problem. I would like to address another point in your post. You seem to have track laid where you cannot reach it to resolve problems (like a power drop separating). Every inch of your track should be accessible without having to tear out scenery. It is not possible to predict every future problem. I have 8 switches inside tunnels. I can reach every one of them from the back of the layout, and am considering a change of configuration inside a tunnel. I can do it without tearing anything out but track.
It's pretty obvious that you are not seeking advise but rather are looking to have people validate a decision you have already made. The posters have all advised you that glue is not a great idea and have offered other solutions to your problem.
I would like to address another point in your post. You seem to have track laid where you cannot reach it to resolve problems (like a power drop separating). Every inch of your track should be accessible without having to tear out scenery. It is not possible to predict every future problem. I have 8 switches inside tunnels. I can reach every one of them from the back of the layout, and am considering a change of configuration inside a tunnel. I can do it without tearing anything out but track.
tstage rrebell, How long is your tunnel? Is your track in the tunnel sectional or are you using flex track? Tom
How long is your tunnel? Is your track in the tunnel sectional or are you using flex track?
Those
mfm37 There really is no good way around soldering. It's fast, cheap, and a skill worth having. Glue may work but it's not practical. Gluing feeders has some adherent problems. Cost has been mentioned as well as the tendency for the glue to dry out in the tube. My $10 tube dried up before I ever got around to trying it. It was purchased to repair solder traces on circuit boards. More significant to me is working with it. It doesn't dry immediately the way solder will cool and turn to solid. That means the connection will need to be clamped or sit undisturbed for several hours. Clamps may wind up adhered to the joint. I can solder a pair of feeders in a few seconds and put power on them as soon as the wire is cool enough to touch. I can also knock into those soldered feeders without disturbing the connection while soldering the next pair of feeders. Soldering can be reversed simply by heating. Martin Myers
There really is no good way around soldering. It's fast, cheap, and a skill worth having. Glue may work but it's not practical.
Gluing feeders has some adherent problems. Cost has been mentioned as well as the tendency for the glue to dry out in the tube. My $10 tube dried up before I ever got around to trying it. It was purchased to repair solder traces on circuit boards.
More significant to me is working with it. It doesn't dry immediately the way solder will cool and turn to solid. That means the connection will need to be clamped or sit undisturbed for several hours. Clamps may wind up adhered to the joint. I can solder a pair of feeders in a few seconds and put power on them as soon as the wire is cool enough to touch. I can also knock into those soldered feeders without disturbing the connection while soldering the next pair of feeders. Soldering can be reversed simply by heating.
Martin Myers
That's what I wanted to know, that the right stuff dose work. Been looking for ways around soldering. For under the layout I use Posi-taps, much better than suitcase connectors. Cost of the glue is not too high in my mind. Remember you need only a little. By the way I resurched the conductivity of it and it is better than the track for at least one type.
I tried some copper tape that is used for making stained glass windows and soldered 22 ga wire to it just to see if would work. I though of using it inside loco shells or buildings where you don't want wires to show. I plan to use it in these ways but haven't actually done it other than the test strip. It does work as long as you solder the wire to the copper tape before you mount it on a plastic model. It will carry a reasonable current load as the tape is about 1/4" wide and maybe .005" thick. I had planned to do a tread on it just to pass the info on to others.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I have used conductive epoxy for feeders. The stuff wasn't cheap. I used it a couple of times when rail joiners failed in completely sceniced areas where soldering would have been impractical. It did the trick but was too expensive for anything other than last resort usage. If you do buy some, make sure the tubes haven't dried out....
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Conductive glue has too high a resistence to be used for power circuits. It's fine stuff for say drawing conductive lines up the legs of a brakeman figure so he can hold an LED lantern and ligh tit up - low currenct draw. Even stuff like silver paint - it's fine for putting resistors on the wheels of cars for block detection, or very minute touchups on a circuit board (the original use), but it's just not suitable to handle train running current on a regular basis. Solder (best) or suitcase connectors (good 3M ones with a proper crimping tool) are how you should attach feeders to bus wires.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
FWIW, solder is tried 'n true and the best way to go for achieving excellent electrical contact. Other methods are going to yield less than satisfactory results.
Or anything else?