PEDUnless you have a lot of excess wire under your layout which can move around and make undesired contact somewhere, why cover the splices with anything other than for appearance? The bare wire is no different than all the track you have exposed topside.
Because when you forget and put something conductive under the layout (or someone else does) you dont run the risk of damaging your equipment with a dead short (it has been done).
Also typically I do not like taking electrical shocks when I reach under my layout. so I heat shrink all of my soldered connections. 14VAC still isnt good for you.
If you buy new DCC/sound locomotives in the $200-500 range, why skimp on the wiring?
Paul D
N scale Washita and Santa Fe RailroadSouthern Oklahoma circa late 70's
There are an awful lot of ways to insulate wiring/splices, and each has its plus and minus points for the various types of uses. Said another way - like "gimme caps" - one type does not work for every situation.
The OP asks about "liquid tape"........ this has been around for decades, and I've always had a container in my electrical box. That said, it is not my preferred method, but has come in handy at times.
The problem is (in MY experience) it's messy and difficult to control. Getting it applied is one thing, getting it to "not drip" is another. I've found that two or three thin coats is a better attack than one thick blob..
I've found it's best used in after the fact hard to reach joints where other methods were too difficult or unable to be used.
As an aside..... there is electrical tape and there is electrical tape. You pretty much get what you pay for as with most things. And don't confuse electrical tape with what we used to call "friction tape", for they are two different animals, with the "friction tape" not all that good for MR wiring jobs..........IMO of course.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
For a better substitute for electrical tape you can use masking tape. As a cable splicer and service tech for Ma Bell we used paper tape all the time for patching insulation on the wires in cable splices. For our purposes this tape was used on wire in enclosed splices not exposed to the weather,it was fine . This worked well on the wire which was as small as 26 guage. This paper tape was a higher quality tape like masking tape it worked well on small wire. We did not use electrical tape called vinyl tape at Ma Bell except for external work on the outside of cables . The vinyl tape did not stay together on small wire. These days when wiring locomotives I still use masking tape in some places where it is not practical to use heatshrink tubing. The paper /masking tape is easy enough to cut or remove if needed
Ron High
I've worked as an electrician (house-wiring) for almost 40 years. I rarely use electrical tape.
Ed
wdcrvr OK. I am relatively new to this. But for a non-electrician I have done a considerable amount of electrical work and I am wondering why nobody responding to this topic is suggesting good ol' electrical tape? I have laid quite a bit of track on my HO DCC layout so far. I am soldering most of the joints and I am also adding feeder lines on a regular interval. So far I am running just fine without any connectivity issues and my DCC control is just connected directly to the track at one point where a set of feeder lines drops down. I will at some point in the future (when I get more of my track laid or if a problem develops) run a buss line and connect it to all the feeders. I was thinking I could just solder the connections and tape them. Is there a problem with this plan that I am not aware of? My layout covers a 14' by 18' area and is pretty much a u-shaped layout. Please enlighten me! Thanks wdcrvr
OK. I am relatively new to this. But for a non-electrician I have done a considerable amount of electrical work and I am wondering why nobody responding to this topic is suggesting good ol' electrical tape? I have laid quite a bit of track on my HO DCC layout so far. I am soldering most of the joints and I am also adding feeder lines on a regular interval. So far I am running just fine without any connectivity issues and my DCC control is just connected directly to the track at one point where a set of feeder lines drops down. I will at some point in the future (when I get more of my track laid or if a problem develops) run a buss line and connect it to all the feeders. I was thinking I could just solder the connections and tape them. Is there a problem with this plan that I am not aware of? My layout covers a 14' by 18' area and is pretty much a u-shaped layout.
Please enlighten me!
Thanks
wdcrvr
That's fine for those conditions.
I used liquid tape where that was not practical. I had to make a repair to a ConCor Electroliner and there really wasn't any good way to use elctrical tape or shrink wrap to insulate the tiny splices on the very light gauge internal wires, all of which were very close to each other. Liquid electrical tape made it a cinch.
It's a little hard to apply heat shrink over a T splice between a continuous bus wire and a feeder drop, that's what I use it for. Though most of the time said joints are offset and I don;t do ANYTHING to them and have no issues, even if the wires should pull together, the uninsulated part on one line is a few inches from the uninsulated part of the other line and they never touch and cause a short. But for belts and suspenders, a little liquid electrical tape protects the joint.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The liquid tape contains Xylene and Toululene I believe. It keeps the liquid tape "liquid" and helps desolve a number of plastics it comes in contact with to increasing the binding. Once it evaporates, the smell goes away and the tape hardens up
I used it on our Christmas tree lightset after our dog ate through the wires. It had 120V running through it and I had zero issues. But it can be a mess to apply.
You can take it off fairly easily with a #11 Xacto blade.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
This thread about liquid electrical tape stuck in the back of my mind - liquid tape came to my local Home Depot several months ago (I know, because I had brought some electrical tape back at that time, and just a little later the display was changed to add the liquid tape). I had no occasion to use any, though, until this weekend when I installed a new flourescent fixture with the apparently now mandated ballast disconnect plug - the liquid tape was perfect for coating the end of the plug where I inserted the circuit wiring (no bare wire was showing out of the plug of course, but I am very cautious when it comes to house wiring) - tape would have been a pain and not really worked well at all.The liquid tape is rather gloppy, and the suggestion above of using some throw away small brushes is a good one for fine detail work (I got away with the wide brush in the bottle cap for what I was using it for).On the bottle itself, the directions caution you to look at the cured coverage (5 minute cure time), and add a second coat as needed for complete coverage, so the manufactuerers are aware that a single coat may not be enough.No real smell emulated from the liquid tape, there was a faint rubberly/plastic smell to my nose while it was drying, but other than that nothing offensive.Obviously I can't say anything about durability, but liquid tape so far looks like it may be suitible for the shelf of useful items...
wdcrvr I was asking why it would not be ok to use regular electrical tape instead of the liquid tape.
I was asking why it would not be ok to use regular electrical tape instead of the liquid tape.
Bulk is one reason, as previously commented.
Convenience is another. Assuming I remembered to slip the tube on one of wires before soldering, it's EASY to slide it in place and heat it up. I've had too many times, especially working over my head or in tight spaces within a control panel, where it was challenging to get the tape wrapped around the contact. I also don't like the "sticky" if I have to remove the tape. Many people have commented that it is possible to remove the liquid tape by slicing it (I've never had to try), and heat-shrink is also completely-removable.
I've used the liquid tape mostly on places where even the heat-shrink isn't convenient, for example, on switch contacts. No matter how I press it in place against the switch, it generally shrinks some in length as well as diameter, and reveals some of the contact at the base of the switch. I also use it on circuits, once I've completed soldering them on perf-board (one part at a time, testing as I go) for somewhat the same reason.
Each has their use. I tend to think of electrical tape as being for relatively big, heavy wire with relatively few connections close together. Housing wiring is like that. Patching the electrical cord on a lamp is like that. Model railroad wiring isn't.
I've used the liquid tape and sometimes I don't feel comfortable that I've covered all the small peaks in a connection--especially in a possible wear situation. That is, you have to get it on so thick that it fills and covers well which has meant two or more applications sometimes. And no, my joints don't look like junk, they are smooth and clean. Maybe the liquid tape I used was too thin?
Richard
You seemed a little confused when you asked people to “enlighten? you.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
My impression has been that this site is for the promotion of model railroading through the unselfish sharing of information with others who are interested in this hobby. And most of the time my questions are answered by many friendly people who share their experience and opinions freely.
However, unfortunately there seems to be a few people who feel the need to belittle someone because they don't like the question they asked, or the way they asked it, or for some other reason that only God knows. I am not illiterate. I do not need to "go back and slowly read the OP's question." I do not need to take my time as suggested by your response. I am well aware that "he was asking about liquid tape". Perhaps you didn't read my response "slowly" enough. I did not say anything about "different types of tape". I was asking why it would not be ok to use regular electrical tape instead of the liquid tape. Fortunately, someone else didn't have any problem understanding my question and was kind enough to respond with their opinion that the electrical tape is just too bulky and doesn't stick well enough.
Response like yours will not help bring people to the hobby of model railroading.
Thanks again to all of the many people who have kindly responded to my questions in the past. I will continue to read and post to this site because the majority of responders are considerate and helpful.
I hope people consider what they are writing before they hit the send button. How you treat people on this site could make a big difference in how people look at this hobby.
Hope you all have a wonderful day.
Thanks for the replys and different ideas. My issue is quite simple. I already have the liquid stuff--I'm looking forward to trying it and believe it can do the specific jobs I have easier than many of the alternatives. It seems I can get it off with little trouble if I need to.
Thanks,
Mike
wdcrvr OK. I am relatively new to this. But for a non-electrician I have done a considerable amount of electrical work and I am wondering why nobody responding to this topic is suggesting good ol' electrical tape? wdcrvr
OK. I am relatively new to this. But for a non-electrician I have done a considerable amount of electrical work and I am wondering why nobody responding to this topic is suggesting good ol' electrical tape? wdcrvr
Electrical tape is too thick, too bulky, doesn't stick that well, just to name a few.
Alton Junction
It should be very obvious if you go back and slowly read the OP's question. Take your time.
He was asking about liquid tape, NOT different types of tape for insulating wire connections.
Everyone knows about electrical tape on a roll.
I used some from Home Depot on my control panel DPDT toggles where the small wires were sometimes in uncomfortably close proximity (where insulation melted back a bit, etc). Applied it with a toothpick, several coats. Smalled a bit but not an issue as far as I was concerned. Can't tell you how removeable it is, however; maybe do a test?
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Dig he hair dryer out of the bathroom.
richhotrain MisterBeasley: I've used it some. It works fine, and yes, it does smell until it cures. I've had to peel some off, and it was no big deal. Shrink tubing is the thing to use for bench stuff like decoder wiring, but that can be awkward when you're doing bus wiring under your layout. (I don't have a heat gun, so I have to use a soldering iron to shrink the tubing.) Mister B, get yourself a heat gun. You will never regret it. Rich
MisterBeasley: I've used it some. It works fine, and yes, it does smell until it cures. I've had to peel some off, and it was no big deal. Shrink tubing is the thing to use for bench stuff like decoder wiring, but that can be awkward when you're doing bus wiring under your layout. (I don't have a heat gun, so I have to use a soldering iron to shrink the tubing.)
I've used it some. It works fine, and yes, it does smell until it cures. I've had to peel some off, and it was no big deal. Shrink tubing is the thing to use for bench stuff like decoder wiring, but that can be awkward when you're doing bus wiring under your layout. (I don't have a heat gun, so I have to use a soldering iron to shrink the tubing.)
Mister B, get yourself a heat gun. You will never regret it.
Dig the hair dryer out of the bathroom.
MisterBeasley I've used it some. It works fine, and yes, it does smell until it cures. I've had to peel some off, and it was no big deal. Shrink tubing is the thing to use for bench stuff like decoder wiring, but that can be awkward when you're doing bus wiring under your layout. (I don't have a heat gun, so I have to use a soldering iron to shrink the tubing.)
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I've used it several times. While it has an oder when wet, the small amount used on a few wire joints is hardly noticable a few feet away. A razor blade cuts it and it can be peeled off the joint. I don't see a problem with it.
I prefer shrink but have used liquid vinyl. I scrape it off with a finger nail or Xacto knife. Hit it with the soldering iron. Maybe scrape of any residue. Not a big deal.
You could probably buy some rubber cement at your local office supply store that would 1) do the same thing, 2) be cheaper, and 3) it's peel-able. Personally, I prefer and use heat shrink.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The stuff I got from Home Depot reminds me of the vinyl patch stuff we used to use on our swimmign pool when I was a kid. Pretty darn stinky. So far I haven't had to remove any - if I need to add another feeder next to one that was already soldered, I'd just strip the bus next to the existing connection for the new one.
For small stuff liek decoders and LEDs in locos I use small heat shrink. I don't think I'd use the liquid electrical tape in a loco.
I sometimes use the liquid tape. It does smell but the smell does not bother me much. Once dry there is no odor. It can be peeled of, st least I was able to peel it off a trial joint before I used it for real.
Whenever possiple I try and use heat shrink tubing.
Living in Fernley Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno, also lived in Oregon and California, but born In Brooklyn NY and raised on Long Island NY
I used the typical red and black wires for my buss and I used the liquid tape in the red and black colors, some had to touched up after it dried but it was easier than heat shrink and electrical tape. I left enough buss wire slack in case I had to cut it or do some repair. I got my liquid tape at a electrical warehouse and really didn't notice any strong smell,that was 2 years ago and no problems with it as of this date. It was easier to do all the soldering first and then go back and coat the wires after it was all tested. Jim.