Mark Schutzer has some useful articles on his site here:
http://schutzer.net/
Good luck with the project,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Craig,
If you run into problems feel free to e-mail me direct. I could walk you thru the process and or help you out on it. my e-mail is svastano "at" hotmail. ... com
Sam
Sam,
I am going to take the locomotive apart in the next several days and clean the gearbox. I will also use some new lubricant. I think that this will help. I have the feeling that a can motor would be helpful, but am not certain.
Craig North Carolina
Pete,
the locomotive does not run very smoothly and makes a moderate amount of noise while running. As far as my skill set is concerned, it stinks with respect to electrical items!
Ron High You should consider joining the Yahoo group repower and regear.. This is their focus both steam and diesel. There are a number of well experienced members /You do have to join the group ,once you are a member you can post questions and ask for help.Be sure to give then an idea of your modeling experience so that they can point you to a good approach to your project. Ron High
You should consider joining the Yahoo group repower and regear.. This is their focus both steam and diesel. There are a number of well experienced members /You do have to join the group ,once you are a member you can post questions and ask for help.Be sure to give then an idea of your modeling experience so that they can point you to a good approach to your project.
Ron High
I joined Yahoo Groups back around 1998 when they formed. Be aware the Groups are loaded with Spammers and Hackers now.
I belong to about fourteen MRR groups, some DCC and activity has really dropped a lot.
Delete any emails with No subject line or some that say, Hey, look at this.
My email was hacked once and I changed my password right away and no more problems.
Some groups you can at least read the messages without joining.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Ok, there are various levels of simple.
Twenty five years ago I bought a complete set of planning info from NWSL. Today, much of the same info is at the site.
There was no Internet at the time and I was on my own.
Bought the Quarterer, Puller and a caliper as USA stuff was SAE and imported, Metric. Most of NWSL stuff is Metric specs.
Dave at NWSL also answers email and has done one re-gear and re-motor of an all metal MDC 4-4-2 for me, recently.
http://www.nwsl.com/Tutorials.html
If you must replace the tubing it is best to replace it with new tubing. The tubing has three functions-1. drive the loco 2. allow the drivers to move up and down on the springs 3. support the gear box. If you use flex drive universals the box may rotate forward or backward and disengage the universals.
PRRT1MAN Re- motoring is pretty simple. Find the biggest can you can fit into the place of the old motor and I have used seversal methods to put the new one in. You can use black silicone, you can use a motor mount, or sometimes you can attach to the existing mounts. As for the gearbox. as locoi1sa said they more than likelt just need cleaned an re-lubed. Unless they are completely worn out they will do. The can motor makes the major difference in the running quality of a well lubed engine with a good tuned mechanism
Re- motoring is pretty simple. Find the biggest can you can fit into the place of the old motor and I have used seversal methods to put the new one in. You can use black silicone, you can use a motor mount, or sometimes you can attach to the existing mounts. As for the gearbox. as locoi1sa said they more than likelt just need cleaned an re-lubed. Unless they are completely worn out they will do. The can motor makes the major difference in the running quality of a well lubed engine with a good tuned mechanism
True, most gear boxes last almost forever and can be cleaned and relubed. The major problem is the tubing to the gear boxes. Newer models can have flex drive shafts but most of the older PFM have the tubing. If the tubing is dried out, it will cause vibrations and poor running even when a new can motor is installed.
I use tubing from a RC shop now and it works very well since it is flexable.
CZ
Craig.
As for what your abilities are I have no idea. If you send it to someone for the work you need done could cost you more than what you paid for the loco!
What makes you think it needs new gear boxes? Maybe a good cleaning and re-lube is in order. Any kind of gear box replacement will need special tooling like a wheel and gear puller, and a quarterer to reset the drivers at the proper quarter. Replacing the motor may need some fabrication of a motor mount. Any older open frame motor can be tuned up with new super magnets, cleaning the commutator and brushes, and lubing the bearings. A lot cheaper than a replacement can motor.
Web sites to use.
http://brassbackshop.com/index.html
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/repowerandregear/?yguid=270163699
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I recent bought an old United N&W Y6a. It does not have a can motor and the gearing is some what rough. I have NEVER attempted anything like replacing a motor in a locomotive nor changing the gearbox. I would like information about how to do something like this. It may be that I am WAY above my head and will need to send the locomotive to someone else for the work. I would like your feedback and any websites that I might read to help me learn about this project.