azlogger Thank you all! When I got it it didn't work at all and now it runs near perfect! However it runs very rough at slow speeds. It wiggles from side to side and does not look realistic. I assume that at each fifth of a turn of the motor it jerks?
Thank you all! When I got it it didn't work at all and now it runs near perfect! However it runs very rough at slow speeds. It wiggles from side to side and does not look realistic. I assume that at each fifth of a turn of the motor it jerks?
The first run of the Rivarossi Heisler was a 2 truck only made in the '70s, and imported by AHM. There were later versions with both 2 and 3 trucks in the '90s with improved details and drives - I believe these were sold under the Rivarossi name. All versions had RP-25 drivers (almost a first for AHM at the time!).
One issue that has appeared more than once is drivers getting out of quarter. This would produce a once/wheel revolution hitch in the git-along. More than once per wheel revolution means the problem is before the final gearing. Could be in the universals or similar.
Getting a model steam engine, especially when buying a used one, to run smoothly like it should generally takes some trouble-shooting and problem correction. Continued running with problems will likely create more problems as time goes on. Running slowly with the shell off is usually the 1st step in trouble-shooting.
The next step is to remove the motor and test the mechanism without the motor - roll it on a glass plate or other smooth, flat surface. The mechanism without the worm should roll smoothly without any hitches. And test the motor in your hand with a 9 volt battery. If you can't hold the motor comfortably, there is too much vibration in the motor.
just a start
Fred W
You might need to replace the motor brushes also. If you don't feel good doing that, remotoring with a new NWSL motor would seem appropriate. Since the flanges are usually very large on the AHM equipment, I no longer buy them and have upgraded all my existing locos to NWSL motors. I have also turned the flanges down some.
http://www.nwsl.com/ They have a lengthy applications list that may cover your loco. If not, it can always be modified to fit.
Richard
Clean the commutator with a pencil eraser or cotton swab dipped in track cleaner or rubbing alcohol, or even better, some electronics contact cleaner if you have it. That might reduce the sparking and allow the motor to run smoother.
Also oil the motor bearings and all other internal moving parts while you have everything exposed.
It sounds lie an old open frame motor and might be drawing a lot of current. Armature might not be in good shape. Somewhat corroded.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I got the shell off and with just a little coaxing, it runs! But there is too much sparking in the brushes. That must be the problem. As you said, there is very little room, and no decoder.
nedthomas,
Thank you! I couldn't figure out how to remove the cab before you told me. Could you tell me how to clean or seat the brushes if they aren't?
Take the shell off and look. Remove screw in smoke stack and lift top half of boiler off, tab at cab end. Remove cab and tender- screw at front of cab and one in the water fill cap at back of tender. Brushes may be dirty or not seated. Engine is from 1978. Decoder would have be in the tender, very little room?
Unless someone has added a DCC decoder after purchase (highly unlikely, since there's no room for one) it is NOT DCC. The wheels are probably so corroded that it can't pick up power from the track. The first thing to try is cleaning the wheels with a cotton swab and track cleaning fluid or rubbing alcohol, and see if it will run any distance at all. If no, then something is wrong with the motor or gears.
I'm pretty sure AHM went out of business before DCC decoders got small enough to put into a Heisler.
Of course, sometimes you luck out. I bought a brass loco on ebay for a ridiculously low price, originally imported in the late 60's, i was fully expectign to have to order some stuff from NWSL and remotor it, but when it arrived, not only had the odl open frame motor already been repalced with a mashima can motor, it had a DCC decoder in it as well. An old one lackign in features, but it had a 9 pin plug so it was all of 2 seconds to swap in a modern TCS T-1.
If it's an AHM branded Rivarossi, it definitely NEVER came with a decoder, AHM was gone before DCC took off. Now, someone else may have added a decoder... If you have DCC< try it, that's how I figured out the brass loco had a decoder, I set it on the track and tried to run it on address 00. Not buzz or hum when I turned on the power. I figured a loose connection or even totally blown motor, took off the cover - found a can motor and decoder.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I would surely wonder why you thought it might be DCC?
Never, ever assume with DCC and especially with ebay. With ebay, Let the Buyer Beware.
To my knowledge, AHM went out before DCC. Maybe someone converted it to DCC and left the DC option disabled. Some do that.
What makes you think that it might be DCC?
Just because it doesn't run in DC doesn't suggest that it is DCC.
You should contact the eBay seller and let him know that it is inoperative and that you are trying to run it on your DC layout.
Alton Junction
If memory serves, those locomotives were made in the 70s. It is unlikely, though not impossible, it is DCC. I suggest you take off the shell and look.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
It's an AHM heisler, HO scale, #5168-06, decorated for the L. C. & N. Co. Thanks.
You could always remove the shell and check...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
What brand, scale and type of loco is it.. that would be a good start
I bought a locomotive from eBay and i don't know if it's DCC or not. The instructions don't say anything about it. I do not have a DCC system. When i put the loco on DC, it doesn't respond.