Almost every time I install an LED in a Digitrax DH156A0 or SDH164D either the F0F or F0R function stalls and does not respond. When I press the 0 function button (F0R) on the throttle the rear light no longer turns off! What causes this and how may I solve or prevent this issue. I made sure none of the wires cross over or touch any metal parts. Everything is insulated. This is the second Digitrax DH156A0 that I'm working on. I think the F0R and F0F functions were blown now this one too! I'm switching to Train Control Systems decoders. This is either bad luck or that Digitrax decoders simply suck! I'm really upset and frustrated!
Try TCS (Train Control Systems) or NCE decoders and see how you fair with them. Both companies make very good decoders.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The Digitrax Yahoo group has 10,000+ members, yet no widespread reports of lighting functions "stalling". And I personally have roughly 45 Digitrax decoders (among others) installed in my loco fleet and have never encountered that problem.
How about some pictures of your installations, and a listing of all the CV's you may have changed and the values you've changed them to?
I did a factory reset CV8.
In the upper photo you have two blue wires and two white wires coming off the F0R terminals and nothing off the F0F terminals, so I assume you have two rear lights and no headlight. Is that correct? What's beneath the tape that those four wires disappear under?
In the second photo it doesn't appear that you have anything wired to the F0R terminals, so I'm more mystified that you can even turn on a rear light, let alone have problems turning it off.
What's beneath the tape the wires disappear under are you referring to? Oh I was in the phase of testing the front and back lights. I will eventually hook the front and back lights simultaneously.
Seeing as how your photo doesn't show any resistors in play here, I'd check the following things:
1) Did you cut the "ADJ" trace on the circuit board as shown on page 6 of the instruction sheet?
2) If you did that, what is the current draw of your LEDs? If they are anything other than 15 mA, you may need additional resistors.
-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.http://www.pmhistsoc.org
Yes you're right I have to solder the wire leads but not net. Troubleshooting and fast removal is exactly the reason why I did not solder at first. I did properly isolate the decoder from the frame because there is adhesive tape on the bottom and electrical tape at the bottom of the leads. The F0f and F0R light function leads already have built in resistors according to the manual. I've also managed to fit in 14 ounces of adhesive lead weight into the shell and frame of this Bachmann F40PH diesel locomotive. I will post an article of how I did that. Thanks for your time.
I did not cut the ADJ. I don't think I'm supposed to cut it because I'm using small LEDs. I I did cut it, the current draw should be 30mA. What is the appropriate tool for cutting the ADJ trace?
I REALLY don;t think those "12V" LEDs will ever work with these decoders, regardless of the state of the ADJ jumper. The built in current limiter is never fully disabled, ADJ intect allows it to deliver 15ma for an LED WITHOUT resistor, cutting it delivers 30ma which is too much for an LED with no resistor, but the resistor used to make the LED work on 12V is probably not correct for the 30ma output of the decoder.
The equivalent TCS A4X or A6X also have rsistors built in for LEDs, so to use the 12V LEDs you would need to follwo the wiring diagram shown for incandecent bulbs.
Really, it's MUCH easier to just get plain LEDs and add resistors where needed, which is the case of those Digitrax decoders, is never.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks to you all again for all your time and effort.
Methinks he switched out the LED to another LED and put in a separate resistor.
I RMAed this decoder to Digitrax and got a new one.