The one reading 14.4V no load shouldn't drop below 12V at the half load which is the max the turntable will apply to it (rated for 1 amp, turntable draw max 500ma). Over the voltage limit is uaulyl the greater concern, as far as risk of damage. Slightly under may result in erratic operation but rarely actually causes permanent damage. Go ahead and try that one, and measure the voltage while the turntable is moving with a loco on it. As long as it stays at 12V or slightly higher, you'll be fine.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Guess I misread, I was under the impression that these were choices the OP already had and wanted to know which one was best, not a list of options to buy. With luck something close would be just laying around although a lot of smaller devices that leave working wall warts behind when they expire use less current, but worth checking before spending money. --Randy
Guess I misread, I was under the impression that these were choices the OP already had and wanted to know which one was best, not a list of options to buy. With luck something close would be just laying around although a lot of smaller devices that leave working wall warts behind when they expire use less current, but worth checking before spending money.
Well I do have several 12VAC around of various amperages, and can pick up something with more voltage in the junk store in town for a couple bucks.
But since I found out those Class II power supplies actually put out variable amounts of voltage I have only gone with switching power supplies for my use lately.....they cost only $5 more or so than the unregulated supplies and I can be sure what I am getting.
With my meter I have found 9V units that make anything from 12 to 17V available and using a Class II 12 V might just allow more than 20V through....no?....although I have one in my hand now that reads 14.2 V and is 1 amp.....maybe that is good enough and I am being too cautious.
richhotrain Hey, what do I know, but wouldn't #4 work too? Rich
Hey, what do I know, but wouldn't #4 work too?
Rich
Well theoretically they would all work, although #3 is awfully close to the limit and if unregulated might drop below 12V whent he power draw gts near the max, such as when the bridge starts moving with a heavy loco on it. #1 is just the best since it's smack dead in the middle voltage wise, and has plenty of current capacity.
i'd say that anything over 500 ma is unnecessary (that is more $$)
have you considered trying an unused wall supply that might be lying around ($$0), anything over 12V and 500 ma.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Actually they would all work BUT #1 is closer to the optimum mentioned and would be the best choice. A 1/2 amp fuse could be added if a person was concerned about possible over current draw.
Peter
Alton Junction
#1, #2 is also acceptable.
Sorry to clog up the website, but wanted to make this a separate post for quick response.
The Walthers Cornerstone turntable calls for optimum of 16 VDC 500 mA. Will take 12V to not more than 18 V and will run on AC voltage supplies.
My electronics supplier has these close choices in switching power supplies (those are the units that put out the actual voltage they state):
1. 15 VDC 1.3 amp (1300 mA)
2. 18 VDC 1.1 amp
3. 12 VDC .6 amp
4. 12 VDC 1.2 or 1.6 amp
Which is the best choice?