peahrens,
Check out your other thread on the reversing loops. We have been adding some content for you to consider.
Rich
Alton Junction
peahrens The Railpower 1370 is about $35 ($19 used) plus shipping on EBay. Steve cautioned not to overvoltage the Torti...could the Railpower do this if dialed all the way up (with the LED inline)? Maybe the documentation states the max voltage and I can see on my test setup. Update: I measured (with a simple meter on 50v scale) about 13.5 vDC output on the 1370 when at 95% on the rheostat. Seems like the neatest solution for somewhat higher cost.
The Railpower 1370 is about $35 ($19 used) plus shipping on EBay. Steve cautioned not to overvoltage the Torti...could the Railpower do this if dialed all the way up (with the LED inline)? Maybe the documentation states the max voltage and I can see on my test setup. Update: I measured (with a simple meter on 50v scale) about 13.5 vDC output on the 1370 when at 95% on the rheostat. Seems like the neatest solution for somewhat higher cost.
Each time that I have added another Railpower 1370 to my layout, I automatically dialed it up to full power. I have never experienced problem with doing it that way. As you indicated, though, you can dial the power pack down to get lower voltage outputs.
An important update on Jim's Model Trains as Jim called within a few hours in response to my e-mail. He explained that he remembered my order and apparently they grabbed the wrong item, which is in the bin next to the Circuitron power supply bin. They are mailing me the Circuitron immediately, with a mailing label for me to then return the wrong item, so I am at most out some time and an envelope. I have no complaint about a mistake such as this (versus an arbitrary substitution that I had assumed) and in fact am rather pleased with the responsiveness.
When the Circuitron arrives, I will then be able (in due course, as today I only have 6 turnouts installed, with no Tortoises wired yet) to compare it with the adjustability of the Railpower 1370.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
peahrens ... If I decide while sitting under the layout I'll probably get the IDCs.
... If I decide while sitting under the layout I'll probably get the IDCs.
I understand. I recently thought about trying to solder the connections on the bench and then taking that wire assembly under the layout, etc. But that may not help that much??
Richard
1. On the Tortoise power supply, I got some questions answered by Steve at Circuitron that were quite helpful. He said their item is unregulated, so output voltage will vary with current (number of machines); i.e., somewhat higher than 12v at lower than 500mA design output. I will be using bipolar LEDs inline with the DPDT toggles to each device. Each Tortoise draws 16 milliamps at stall, so I will be less than 300mA (their device can provide 500). Voltage seen by the Torti would be somewhat above 12 volts (due to less than full load) less the 2 volts or so for the LEDs.
Steve said that the typical walwort is almost always filtered. I asked if a 12 volt non-"switching", regulated item would be ok (e.g., from All Electronics) and whether "switching" power supplies (like used for PC charging) were ok or not. He said the regulated, non-switching 12v (like at All Electronics for $9) sounded fine. He said the switching type (for PCs, etc) were usually more expensive but would also work.
So, I'm going to return the unregulated Triad to Jim's Model Trains (partly on principle). I might still get a Circuitron 7212, but since unregulated I lean toward the regulated All Electronic item or using a Railpower 1370 (I have one on my test turnout setup). The Railpower is about $35 ($19 used) plus shipping on EBay. Steve cautioned not to overvoltage the Torti...could the Railpower do this if dialed all the way up (with the LED inline)? Maybe the documentation states the max voltage and I can see on my test setup. Update: I measured (with a simple meter on 50v scale) about 13.5 vDC output on the 1370 when at 95% on the rheostat. Seems like the neatest solution for somewhat higher cost.
2. On the suitcase connectors, I see the 3M #558 has dual teeth, the offbrand I received does not. So, I will either get some 3M IDCs or simply solder my feeders. (Does anyone want 200 offbrand 22/16 IDCs.) The cost was barely worth returning to Amazon with a complaint. If I decide while sitting under the layout I'll probably get the IDCs.
As it seems you suspect, the off brand suitcase connectors may be inferior. Particularly the materials which can degrade much more quickly. IMHO, if the metal and plastic don't look and feel good to you, don't use them. Otherwise you may end up rewiring and spending some time diagnosing a feeder issue. Of course, soldering is better as far as reliability.
I run a half-dozen Tortoises off a 9-volt wall wart I found in a parts box in my basement. I agree that 9 volts is about right. I like the way the points move at that voltage. They run too fast at 12 volts, losing one of the great beauties of the Tortoise system.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Incidentally, I would switch suppliers if I were you.
Substituting other products than what you ordered without your permission is ridiculous.
I cannot recall ever hearing of this being done.
If you want to power 15 Tortoises, just buy an MRC Railpower 1370.
I have four of them distributed across my DCC layout, each powering 15 Tortoises.
They are inexpensive, totally reliable, and among the most popular DC power packs available.
FOr the power supply add a 2200 mfd or so electrolytic capacitor (pay attention to the polarity!) and youw ill have a filtered power supply. However the net voltage will probably be over 12V. If you put some LEDs in series witht he Tortoise motor leads you will get panel indicators and also a reduction in voltage. The Tortoise sweet spot really seems to be at about 9V, must lower and they move too slow, much more and they can be nnoisy.
Although - you paid for and ordered a specific Circuitron part and this is NOT the functional equivalent, not if it's unfiltered and unregulated.
Suitcase conenctors, I just don;t liek them, regardless of brand. CLearly these are knock-offs though. Part of the problem is even 3M doesn;t have one that works with my particualr choice of wire sizes (mainly because I refuse to solder chunky #18 wire to my rails, and that's about as low as the taps go, unless the run wire is #16 or smaller, which is smaller than my bus wire.) And that silly two sets of taps they did on that one MR video - that is just a complete waste. Sodler. CHeap, nearly free, and reliable.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
1. I'm going to have 15 Tortoise turnout devices on my HO layout. To power them, I wanted to get a Circuitron 800-7212 power source, removing concerns on compatibility (noise, etc). Their site shows a 500mA 12 volt DC source that is "filtered" and can handle twice the number of Torti I plan. Not finding it at some sites, I ordered one (Circuitron 7212) from Jim's Model Trains. Today I received a Triad Magnetics WAU12-1000, with an invoice that says Circutiron 7212. On the Triad site it notes it is "unregulated". My All Electronics catalog says that the unregulated type provide stated voltage at nominal load and higher voltage at lighter loads. My questions are obvious: will the one provided work ok; does anyone have experience with Jim's sending things other than what's ordered; why is Jim charging $15 Circuitron price for a $9 device, etc.
2. Similarly, I ordered some suitcase (IDC) connectors for my solid 22AWG feeders to 16AWG stranded subdistrict bus wires. I saw on the 3M site that they have a 16/22 item Scotchlok connector. So I ordered some from Amazon, advertised as "22-16 Scotch-Loks", from Blue Jay Fasteners. Today they arrived, and they are labelled as Scotch-Locks on the box, not 3M I presume since it does not say 3M on the box and it's spelled differently. Assuming that I've decided to use suitcase connectors for bus-to-feeder connections, I will use the right tool, etc, should I not use these off-brand kind? (For golf drivers, the clones are not the same as the brand items, just look-alike.)
I'm not a happy shopper...let the buyer beware, I guess! I think I'll call Jim's and aks for his explanation. In the IDC connectors, I'll likely get some 3M ones unless someone advises what I have will be reliable if installed correctly.