Removing the shell from an Athearn GP-38 (Non-RTR)

[hobo9941]

Do yourself a favor and cut the locking part of the tabs off, but leave the length as they serve to align the shell on the chassis.

True. But remember that when you go to pick up the loco. In the GP38-2s, the couplers do not hold the chassis on. Without locking tabs, if you just pickup the loco, the shell will just come off in your hands, and the rest probably drop on the floor.

The one pickup wire from the truck is one side of the power. The other side comes from the frame resting on the bolster, which is hot with power from the other rail. My locos had oil on the bolster, where the frame rests on it, further degrading the power pickup. I soldered a wire to each truck bolster, for better power pickup. I'm also rethinking if I want to put a Tsunami in them now.

If you are going to consist the old blue box locos, hard wiring the power pickups together greatly improves performance. Or you can use the miniatronics micro connectors. Two motors sharing the pickup from 8 axles work a lot better than than two locos, each picking up power from 4 axles, and nudgeing each other around the layout.

[rrinker]

 I installed a QSI decoder in one for someone and it was a tight squeeze - of course it was the 9 pin wired type, not a board replacement, but the custoemr already had it. I managed to mostyly stuff the decoder just behind the cab witht he wires stuffed into the low hood and the speaker enclosure under the rear radiator fans.

 For that loco, sunny white LEDs would be more accurate for the more modern lights. If you want to do the Mars light, use a pair of surface moutn LEDs, one for the plain light and one for the Mars light. Each one with individually fit in the lens space of the headlight casting.

                      --Randy

 

[ohcase1227]

 

Well, I checked out the the loco and took some measurements.  The narrowest part of the inside of the long hood measured 0.7" and looks like there is space for a small oval speaker over the rear truck.  The shell grills are not etched parts, so I figured a down facing speaker with an enclosure might work.  The 810113 is a small oval speaker which is 0.63" wide which allows a little for the enclosure.  Soundtraxx has the TSU-1000 decoder which has a width of 0.68" so a little room to spare and no heat sink needed.  Thought it might fit in the dynamic brake housing when that is opened up and the weight is removed. 

A couple of questions... 

The trucks have only one lead coming off them, so I am guessing that the negative would be the frame?

The shell has two headlights set vertically between the number boards, and there are two backup lights set horizontally in the rear.  If I use the 3mm bulbs, do you just mount them centered between the two holes? 

Would love to have a mars light in front, but that would require two very small bulbs (1.3MM?) with one mounted in each hole?  Also, if I went with LEDs, which is better: sunny white or golden white?

Thanks again,

Casey

 

[bogp40]

PennCentral99

 

These plastic tabs hold the shell to the frame. Compress the shell in the lower middle where it rests on the frame and these tabs loosen to lift the shell.

Although this procedure will release the 4 shell tabs 90% of the time, ocassionally you may need to use a small screwdriver in the slot to convince them to all release. This is also true for the BB GP40-2 as well. If for some reason you have a real stubborn one, as I had, some minor filing may be needed for ease of assemby and future removal. Just go easy or the latches won't catch firmly.

The use of a screwdriver may also be nec once railings are added as you can't place your fingers low enough or have to sqeeze too hard (fat finger syndrome). A couple of my GP40-2s have Smokey Valley rail/ stanchions and they are not as forgiving when my fat fingers are jambed down the sides of the hood.

[hobo9941]

I have several Athearn GP38s. I just opened up one the other night, new in the box. And one of the tabs was broken off, and the shell lifted right off. I suspect someone may have messed with it and returned it. Or it was broke on assembly.

I take a dremel and cut off the light assembly. Solder pickup wires to the frame, and the trucks. Isolate the motor. I remove the weight inside the dynamic brake housing to make room for the decoder. Use a dremel and cut away the plastic inside the dynamic brake housing. I use a 3mm LED for the headlight and backup light. I cut a piece of plastic and glue it under the LED to shield the light from shining inside the cab. There is no backup light on the GP38s I have. Just the lens. Add an LED also for the backup light, with resistor. Not difficult. Just a lot of work. I bought them online. I wasn't aware Athearn was still making them that way. They're basically blue box locos.

[ohcase1227]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the great tips.  Mission accomplished!  You were correct.  Basically the four tabs are part of the shell and run through the fuel tank.  Simply squeeze firmly on the walkway edges just above the fuel tank with fingers placed carefully between the railing sanctions, and the shell lifts off with little effort.

I've been looking at the guts of Genesis and RTR models. I added Soundtraxx to my Genesis SD70ACE and my RTR AC4400.  It's amazing to see how simple the basic DC versions are inside!   

Thanks again!

Casey

[PennCentral99]

ohcase1227

I recently bought a new Athearn DC train set from the local hobby shop.  The price was reasonable and came with a loco, DC power supply, a few cars and some snap track.  I needed some track and a DC power supply for testing non DCC locos before conversion.  I got the Southern Pacific set and I like the look of the engine and was wondering about upgrading it to DCC/Sound/LEDs.  Anything to get rid of that horrible "welding lamp" in the cab!  Figured it would be good practice because I have a few 1980s vintage blue box locos I want to convert and detail someday.

Last night I put the loco on the bench to take a look inside and noticed it does not have screws that can be removed from the coupler boxes like on RTR engines.  The screws are upside down and not accessible from the bottom. There are four plastic "tabs" through the fuel tank, which appear to simply hold the tank to the frame.  There are four screws in the middle of the tank which I figure hold the motor to the frame.  There are no screws visible that hold the shell to the frame?  Is this a pry job to get it off?  How do you do this without damaging anything?

 

Thanks for any info!

Casey

These plastic tabs hold the shell to the frame. Compress the shell in the lower middle where it rests on the frame and these tabs loosen to lift the shell.

[EmpireStateJR]

Hey Casey,

 I have several of these locomotives. To remove the shell  place your hand over the the shell at the middle of the long hood and carefully squeeze the shell with your fingers just above the walkway in the middle of the long hood. If you pick up the locomotive slightly the chassis will slip out easily. Another word of caution if you have not already found out, the dynamic brake assembly will come off in your hand if you pick up the locomotive by grabbing it there. 

Good Luck,

John

[maxman]

This might not be the version of the loco you have, as it doesn't appear to have the screwed on from the top couplers.  However, you might try the indicated instructions where it says grasp here and grasp/squeeze there: http://www.hoseeker.org/assemblyexplosionAthearn/Assembly%20Explosion%20Athearn%20GP38-2%20GP40-2%20GP50%201988.jpg

[locoi1sa]

Casey.

 While I do not have that locomotive the older Athearns had shells held on with tabs. Before prying it off take a good look under the trucks for hidden screws. Move them from side to side. Maybe squeeze on the sides of the shell will release it too. Hopefully it is not all glued together.

 

          Pete

[ohcase1227]

I recently bought a new Athearn DC train set from the local hobby shop.  The price was reasonable and came with a loco, DC power supply, a few cars and some snap track.  I needed some track and a DC power supply for testing non DCC locos before conversion.  I got the Southern Pacific set and I like the look of the engine and was wondering about upgrading it to DCC/Sound/LEDs.  Anything to get rid of that horrible "welding lamp" in the cab!  Figured it would be good practice because I have a few 1980s vintage blue box locos I want to convert and detail someday.

Last night I put the loco on the bench to take a look inside and noticed it does not have screws that can be removed from the coupler boxes like on RTR engines.  The screws are upside down and not accessible from the bottom. There are four plastic "tabs" through the fuel tank, which appear to simply hold the tank to the frame.  There are four screws in the middle of the tank which I figure hold the motor to the frame.  There are no screws visible that hold the shell to the frame?  Is this a pry job to get it off?  How do you do this without damaging anything?

 

Thanks for any info!

Casey