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Crimping Tool for IDC's

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  • Member since
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Crimping Tool for IDC's
Posted by CascadeBob on Sunday, January 8, 2012 1:24 PM

In an article entitled, "Good Wiring Practices" in a "How To Article" under "Controls and Electrical" by Mike Polsgrove on this website, reference was made to the use of Robo-Grip cam-action pliers  to crimp IDC's with good results (used by Andy Sperandeo).  The article specifically did not recommend the use of slip-jaw (Channel Lock?) pliers to crimp IDC's.  I'm about to start wiring my layout and want to use IDC's to connect the power drops to the power bus.  An official 3M crimping tool is very expensive ($64.00 on Amazon) but Robo-Grip pliers are under $20.

Has anyone used the Robo-Grip pliers for this application?  Do they work as well as the official 3M crimping tool?  The Robo-Grip pliers come in a 7" and 9" size.  Which size is better for this application?

Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

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Posted by wp8thsub on Sunday, January 8, 2012 2:00 PM

I use the 9" Robo Grips to install 3M IDCs.  They work great.  I also can attest to the fact that channel-lock/slip jaw type pliers do not work well.

Rob Spangler

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  • From: Clearlake, California. USA
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Posted by Lake on Sunday, January 8, 2012 3:24 PM

Maybe I'm missing some thing,Confused but for the  suitcase type connecters I have always just used a pair of large pliers. Works perfect every time.

Just push the spade into the wire and flip the lid closed.

Ken G Price   My N-Scale Layout

Digitrax Super Empire Builder Radio System. South Valley Texas Railroad. SVTRR

N-Scale out west. 1996-1998 or so! UP, SP, Missouri Pacific, C&NW.

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Posted by tstage on Sunday, January 8, 2012 3:40 PM

Bob,

Ditto on the Robo-Grip pliers. Yes  They work great!  I've had no problems using the 7" versions.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Curt Webb on Sunday, January 8, 2012 5:09 PM

I used channel locks and after a year no issue. If you use pliers try to make sure the bayonet clip in the IDC is centered so when you are clamping it doesn't slip off (spoken from experience)Whistling. Have fun.

Curt Webb

The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad

http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/

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Posted by K. Holt on Sunday, January 8, 2012 5:21 PM

I just found these online

 

Klein Tools D234-6 ScotchLok Connector Crimping Pliers

 

advertised for $18

 

Keith

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Posted by K. Holt on Sunday, January 8, 2012 5:40 PM

Looking at the pictures the much cheaper Klein tool looks exactly like the 3M tool E-9Y.  They probably make it for 3M.

 

Keith

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Posted by tstage on Sunday, January 8, 2012 9:42 PM

I would still get the Robo-Grip pliers because you can use them for other jobs.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, January 8, 2012 9:54 PM

Klein is good stuff, but it is a single tasker and only can be used for crimping the IDC connectors. The Robo-Grip pliers have 1001 uses. The key is straight downward pressure, not off at an angle. The official tool and Robo-Grip pliers close the jaws while having the two faces remain parallel to one another. Standard slip joint pliers close at an angle - the nose touches before the rear face of the jaws touch. On an ICD connector this can potentially result in only one side of the blade being fully seated in the wire, and the part closer to the hinge of the pliers not being fully seated. End result, unreliable connection.

 Of course I just sodler it all, it's no harder really, and with a good wire stripper like the one made by Klein I can get a good tight mechanical joint that in many cases has held up for months until I went back around and actually soldered them all. Like everythign else in ths hobby, I do it when I feel like it - I could never spend a week solid solderign feeders, I would go nuts and be bored out of my skull. So one night I'll solder a few connections, another night I might lay some track, another night I'll just run the train. The point being, you don;t have to go nuts doing the same thign over and over and over again, you can alternate tasks and maintain a higher level of interest.  I think that's what happened most recently, I had a deadline to get a bunch of my cars equipped with detectable resistor wheelsets so that's all I did, a few each night. Sort of burned me out, I've done practically nothing on my layout since then and that was back in June. Soldering feeders night after night for weeks would do that to me as well, so normally I strip and wrap them to make the mechanical connection and hit them witht he solderign gun when I feel like it - eventually they all get done, but it DOES seem to work fine in the meantime.

                                  --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by CascadeBob on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:07 AM

I want to thank everyone for their input.  I think I'll go with the 9" Robo-Grip pliers since I have a fairly large hand.  At under $20, they're a lot cheaper than the 3M crimping pliers.

Again thanks,

Bob

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    June 2009
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Posted by Hooty on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 10:59 AM

I use a pair of 8" vise-grips works great. You adjust the vise-grip pliers so they just close enough to set the crimping mechanism

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Posted by TBat55 on Saturday, January 14, 2012 6:23 AM

Regular pliers or slip\channel pliers work well if the larger diameter bus wire is stranded and the smaller feeder wire is solid.  My experience is with 12AWG and 18 gauge.

Terry

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