Some miniature switches have a smooth barrel with no threads or nuts required or possible.
The LION slobs a glob of painter's caulk on the top housing of the switch and pokes it through the hole. Once the glue sets, there it will stay until I aggressively twist it off from under the panel.
LIONS *like* Glue, who in the world wants to dtiz around with screw drivers and or pliers and wrenches.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Absolutely, what Elmer said. Or the proper size deep socket, you need to clear the handle. You don;t need a ratchet to fit, you can tighten them plenty by hand - overtightening can break the whole switch.
Nothing like getting down to the last switch on a 15 switch panel and have the pliers slip on that very last one and gouge your nice neat panel.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Also, you might want to go out and buy a nut-driver the size of the nuts on the switch. I have one and I don't have to worry any more about pliers slipping off the nuts and messing up the paint on the control panel.
Just one of those special tools that makes life simpler.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Thanks to all. That makes sense, now that I think about it. Confirmation? That's exactly the reverse of the way the washers are sequenced on the new switch!
Rick Krall
The correct order from the body of the switch is: adjustment nut, lock washer, panel, smooth washer, tightening nut. This assumes that the panel is thin enough to accomodate everything. The bottom nut is adjusted so that the top nut when tight, is even with the top of the switch shaft for a neat look.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I remove both nuts and put the lock washer (the one you call rough) on the bottom of the shaft to help keep the switch body from moving as the top nut is tightened. If there's room, I use the smooth (trim) washer on the panel surface and then one of the nuts.
I prefer to put the rough washer beneath the board and the smooth one on top, if I've even got room for the washers. I want the nut to slide smoothly while I tighten it, without ripping up the surface of the panel.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm mounting miniature toggle switches and note that each one has a top nut, what I assume is a stop washer (rough surface), and a smooth washer.
Am I correct that the stop washer should go under the nut on top of the board and the smooth washer should go underneath the board?
(Not a question for the ages I know, but I want to do it right.)
Thanks.