Thanks again, Woodone, you've been very helpful. I read that the AT series are PNP for Atlas engines so I was concerned that there wouldn't be instructions for hard-wiring the decoder.
Between you and Richard, I've got enough information to proceed with this project, you two have really been a lot of help, I appreciate it.
Thanks,
Jeff
davidmbedard jcopilot: Well, that was certainly helpful. Seriously, just asking for advice from people who have already done this, you know, what this forum is supposed to be about. Thank you for your thoughtful contribution. Jeff Guess what, as a professional installer (I have done many of your loco), the first thing I do is TAKE OFF THE SHELL AND TAKE A LOOK AT THE SPACE AVAILABLE TO ME. Especially with a loco that has had different versions in the past. My reply was spot on and was intended in getting you to experience the first step for choosing a decoder and speaker for ANY loco. The second step is to choose a decoder and speaker that would fit. The third step is to perform the install. The Fourth step is to test the install. The Fifth step is to program the decoder. The Sixth step is to enjoy the install. Also, you could have utilized Google and looked for instructions on the entire net before posting here as well. It would have given you instructions like this one. Sorry for being so direct, but thick skin is an asset around here. David B
jcopilot: Well, that was certainly helpful. Seriously, just asking for advice from people who have already done this, you know, what this forum is supposed to be about. Thank you for your thoughtful contribution. Jeff
Well, that was certainly helpful.
Seriously, just asking for advice from people who have already done this, you know, what this forum is supposed to be about.
Thank you for your thoughtful contribution.
Guess what, as a professional installer (I have done many of your loco), the first thing I do is TAKE OFF THE SHELL AND TAKE A LOOK AT THE SPACE AVAILABLE TO ME. Especially with a loco that has had different versions in the past.
My reply was spot on and was intended in getting you to experience the first step for choosing a decoder and speaker for ANY loco. The second step is to choose a decoder and speaker that would fit. The third step is to perform the install. The Fourth step is to test the install. The Fifth step is to program the decoder. The Sixth step is to enjoy the install.
Also, you could have utilized Google and looked for instructions on the entire net before posting here as well. It would have given you instructions like this one.
Sorry for being so direct, but thick skin is an asset around here.
David B
Wow, David, that was certainly a prickly response for someone who's telling me I need a thick skin. And yelling really isn't necessary, David, it's a good indication that you know you're arguing from a weak position. Your original reply was unnecessarily snarky and condescending and you know it. Man up and admit it.
Your original reply was, and this one is, presumptuous. Why did you presume I had not looked under the shell? (I had) Why do you presume I've never installed a decoder? (I have, into several steam and diesel engines from a variety of companies) Why do you presume I didn't search Google for installation instructions? (I did and found nothing of any help)
Then there's the pompousness of telling me that you're a "professional installer" and you "have done many of your loco" and then listing your six steps. I don't need you to get me to experience anything. I was just asking for advice from people who have already done this installation. If you're as experienced as you claim to be, why would you not share that knowledge with other modelers? Unless you just enjoy being snarky, condescending, presumptuous and pompous.
David, the world's smallest package is a man wrapped up in himself. Sorry for being so direct, but I'm sure you have a thick skin.
Yes the AT board is much thinner than a TSU1000. You will have to solder your connections to the AT board as there are no wires with the exception of the wires for the capaciator. The information in the decoder instructions should keep you out of trouble. You will still need to machine off some of the weight to make room for the AT board. The clearance between the shell and the weight is very small. Not enought room for even the AT board.
The easist way to install the speaker is to use the enclosure kit Soundtraxx makes.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/access/Images/810100.jpg
Woodone & Richard,
I assume you used the AT1000 decoder because it is not as thick as the standard TSU1000, right? I checked the website and they don't give dimensions for the AT1000. And the instruction sheet identifies which of the solder tabs is for which wire? I've used the TSU1000 but never the AT1000.
Thanks for your help, guys, it is much appreciated.
jcopilot Richard, Thanks very much for the useful information. One other thing, it sounds like you left the flywheels in your engine. I've read other places where the flywheels cause problems for the decoders. Did you do anything to address a possible problem like that? Thanks again, Jeff
Richard,
Thanks very much for the useful information.
One other thing, it sounds like you left the flywheels in your engine. I've read other places where the flywheels cause problems for the decoders. Did you do anything to address a possible problem like that?
Thanks again,
Jeff,
I did leave those huge flywheels on and actually had to cut pretty far down to just over their height. No problems and I have 2 locos like this and soon will have 4(one a PA like yours). I tried to use the original light board for the mars light, but using the simulated mars from Soundtraxx was fine, not as nice, but fine and will last longer. BTW, these motors are very similar if not identical to certain Athearn motors. I believe I used an AT format which has 12V and 1,5V outputs. It also has a wired capacitor which I upgraded. I usually go to about 500 or so vs the 220 that is stock. I've actually gone up to about 1000 with great results. After a while I have enough 220s laying around I just combine 2 or 3 of them.
Here is the speaker I used. I have found nothing nearly as good given it's big magnet, large size and metal cone and quality construction. It has great bass. The enclosure being sealed is key. I used something like silly putty/plah doh, I forget it's name since it's been a while since i bought it. It's similar to what is used by auto body shops as a seam type sealer. Flexible bulk filling adhesive. Also, with all speakers make sure you leave room or cushion for the magnet to not vibrate the shell and make sure you leave enough room on the front side of the speaker for it to push out. I should add that I build my own enclosures out of thick cardstock a lot of times to get the largest enclosed area for the best sound and I have found that the thick cardstock gives me a better quality sound( at least to my ears) than plastic. Between the cardboard and sealant I get pretty good vibration isolation for the speaker. I use the shell as part of the enclosure as well to maximize size--again you need to seal off a few areas.
http://dccinstallsandsales.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46&products_id=262
Richard
I would use the Tsunami TSU AT1000 decoder. I think that you will need to machine some of the weight off the top to make room for the decoder. SoundTraxx also makes a speaker enclosure for this locomotive.It will fit into the shell at the upper rear and let you mount a 26MM round speaker into it.
As for flywheels, I have never removed any on my installs.
Also you noted that your motor is drawing 1 amp? How did you test this? 1 amp is the max that a Tsunami will handle.
To get a good reading, the motor should be stalled when reading the amp draw.
You can solder the wires right to a 8 pin plug. If you do not have the decoder yet, a light board type decoder might work.
You can also cut back the shrink and remove the 9 pin connector and get an 8 pin to 9 pin adapter.
Look at the below link.There is a lot of Tsunami info. Store the link in Favorites. Check all his stuff.
http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
As was said, Pull the shell.
Measure the available space.
Get the decoder size from SoundTraxx.
Some people use a 28mm round speaker. Some use two 28mm speakers facing each other in a slanted fixture so you get sound out of the back of the speakers. My Atlas GP40 is like that.
Some use a 16mm x 35mm oval speaker. I use those also.
You might have to modify the frame with a rotary sander or belt sander. I have done that.
A Dremel with a diamond cut off wheel might work.
Remember, you will need a little space for the Stay Alive cap and “maybe” resistors for LED's.
The decoders come with full instructions.
I do not have this loco.
! amp stall I cannot comment on. I usually do slipping dricers. How many times have you actually had wheels stop on a loco?
I have done a similar install in some E units of that vintage Proto 2000. I put in a 1.22 high base round speaker and it is one of my best sounding units. I put the speaker up in the rear of the shells pointing downward and built an enclosure out of thick cardstock and then sealed it in.
I had to cut the frame down for the speaker and so I went ahead and cut down more of the frame and just replaced the OEM board and ended up rewiring the whole thing. I also painted the cab and figures. There is plenty of weight with those locos, particularly with the large flywheels so cutting it down some won't really hurt you. Just make sure you mark where you want the cuts on both sides of the frame and remember that you can always cut more, but it's hard to add back. I went ahead and replaced the bulbs with LEDs, btw.
Another note, be sure and check the gears on the axles and make sure they haven't cracked. There were problems with the GP units of that vintage, not sure of your loco.
Jeff:
David is right in that you should really check the frame to shell clearance to see if a sound decoder will fit and if you have enough room for a proper speaker and enclosure. There are a couple of versions of the Tsunami decoders and you need to decide which will be the best for you. You may need to replace the light board and use a light board style Tsunami to have sufficient room or perhaps the shrink wrap style will fit. On the other hand, that maximum current rating for the 1000 series is 1 amp and that might be a little too close for comfort if your stall current is 1 amp. Did you check the running current? That is important too. I'm sure that some of the more experienced guys will chime in so stay tuned.
Joe
Hi,
I want to install Tsunami sound decoders (Alco 244 engine) in my Lifelike PAs. I don't know when these PAs were built, the PAs I have are in light blue boxes with a flip top. The body shell and underframe are packed separately and the instructions say they are DCC-ready with an 8-pin plug on a circuit board.
Has anyone installed a Tsunami in one of these engines? Is there room for the decoder and speaker? Anything special I should do? Should I wire the Tsunami to an 8-hole socket and use the plug on the circuit board or remove the circuit board and wire the decoder directly?
I have seen warnings about an unusually high stall current on these engines, but I have tested them and the stall current is right at 1 amp, so that shouldn't be a problem, right?
Any help or advice you can give would be appreciated.