Hi!
After my conversion to DCC two years ago, I've managed to install decoders in those locos that were not too difficult, such as the P2K and Stewart diesels, and a couple of Spectrum steamers. This leaves me with 5 locos that are obviously (to me), not all that easy to convert. I would appreciate your comments on them and the conversion process, and whether or not it is "worth the trouble"...........
Almost forgot, these are HO, and either NIB or like new condition - and I thank you for your help!
1 Atlas RS-1 - mfg. # 8116
2 Atlas RSD 4/5 - mfg. # 7081, 7085
2 Spectrum H16-44 Baby Trainmasters - mfg. # 81203, 81220
Sadly, none of the above came with any literature whatsoever.
Thanks again,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I can only speak to the Atlas RS-1. I have two of those locos, and I installed the NCE DA-SR decoders. No problems, whatsoever.
Rich
Alton Junction
All 3 Atlas diesels use the DH165AO decoder according to the Digitrax Decoder Selection chart.
Those installations are pretty straight forward as well. They are not plug-ins though so some soldering is required.
The Atlas ones will actually be fairly easy, that plastic Kato board is removed and an Atlas format decoder of your choice snaps on the mounting tabs. Some of them are meant to reuse the stock light bulb in the middle, but they also have terminals on the ends where you can connect individual lights or LEDs. I think I have pictures of an RSD I did, I cut back the light bars (the very ends are the actual headlight lenses, so you sort of have to keep them), and used heat shrink to attach an LED to each cut end. Then the typical 1K resistor on each one and connect to the forward and reverse light terminals on the decoder.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks all,
I'm in my annual "thinning out the train inventory" process, a years long drive to end up with locos and cars that I will actually use (or view in display cases) rather than sitting in boxes on shelves.
I pulled a shell off one of the Spectrum H16-44s - and it was fairly obvious that converting to DCC would be something I just don't want to deal with. Soooo, looks like they will hit the Ebay market next month.
The Atlas shell on one of the RSD 4/5s was really wedged on, having weights in either end of the shell - something I've not seen before. Yes, the board looks rather simple, and pretty much like the older Stewarts I've already worked with. I'll keep the two RSD 4/5s and for the thinning out purpose, sell off the RS-1. BTW, with the Kato drives these are super smooth runners!
If I had pulled the shells before my posting I might well have come up with the same answer, but even so I really value what you all have to say, for even though I've been messing with DCC for a couple of years, I'm still a relative "newbie".
Thanks again!
mobilman44 I pulled a shell off one of the Spectrum H16-44s - and it was fairly obvious that converting to DCC would be something I just don't want to deal with. Soooo, looks like they will hit the Ebay market next month.
LOL
atta boy !
Good ole' eBay.
mobilman44 If I had pulled the shells before my posting I might well have come up with the same answer, but even so I really value what you all have to say, for even though I've been messing with DCC for a couple of years, I'm still a relative "newbie".
Well, if we knew that you were going to pull the shells and reach the same conclusion without even bothering to post, we might not have replied to your question.
HA!
A Wise man knows his limitations...............
While I "might" have come up with the same conclusion, I sure wouldn't want to base it on my observations alone. It's always possible I could have made a "wrong" decision - and my wife will attest to that!
Mr44.
The Atlas conversions are easy and I would insist on using LEDs for the lights. Bulbs would melt the shell before you realize it has happened. The end weights sometimes have rub pads on the sides that help hold them inside the shells. I peel them off and use a rubber contact cement to hold the weight to the frame. Like Randy has said, cut the light pipes and solder the LEDs to the decoder ends. Here is a link that will help you picture it.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/RSD4-5/Atlas_Kato_RSD_%204_5.htm
The Bachmann can be done also. I used a TCS M1 hardwire decoder in mine. You will have to disassemble the whole loco. Do not lose the plastic spacers between the frame. Using a dremel and cut off wheel grind grooves for the wires that will attach to the truck pickups. Hollow out an openning on top of the motor for the decoder. Grind out grooves for the motor wires, and lighting wires. Wash the frame and start soldering like any normal hardwire job. Wrap electrical tape or Capton tape where the motor contacts are and reassemble and test on the program track first. It is not a hard job it just needs a little planning and a lot of grinding. My first attempt used the frame as the pickups. I later changed it and soldered wires to the truck pickups. Much better reliability that way.
Not the same loco but the same idea. My truck pickups are on the outside of the frame where his are inside.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Spectrum_Dash_8-40CW/Spectrum%20Dash%208-40CW.html
Hope this helps.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Pete,
Thank you! The TCS pics are a big help, and I will keep the RSD-4/5s and convert them. The Spectrums are more than I want to mess with, and as I am thinning out the roster, they are the most likely candidates.
The RS-1 would be exactly like the RSD-4/5. So unless you just don't like RS-1's, or it's the wrong road name..
Yes, the RS-1 & RSD 4/5 innards are the same, but I've got to lose some loco weight and the RS-1 lost the coin toss. The remaining RSD 4/5s make a nice set, and are beautiful runners. All the locos I mentioned are ATSF Zebra striped with different road numbers - that even match up with the prototypes.