Hey guys first I should let you know this is my first time installing a decoder. I have on older p1k f3 and their is no 8 pin socket. The board just says to cut at 3 x's on it. Anyone have any ideas on how to wire this or know of a link with a diagram. It wouild help me out a ton. Thanks
Danny
Danny:
Try this link:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_1000_F3A
_alternate/Proto_1000_F3A_alternate.html
Joe
Thanks for the quick response
My personal preferred method with these is to just remove the board entirely. You have ot be very sure to cut through the traces fully to isolate things for the decoder. If you just remove the boards - the wire positions are very obvious, the wires from the truck pickups go to red and black ont he decoder, the wires to the motor are orange and grey, the headlight gets white and blue, but you'll need a resistor, or repalce the bulb with a warm white LED and 1K resistor and never worry about it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy:
I'll have to agree with you on this one. Once you get over the fear of removing the factory board it becomes much easier to do a neat installation. The room you gain by removing the board is a nice bonus.
I have done the 'cut the 3 'X's and solder) - it works. However, the weak link is the PCB to truck connections. I Threw out the boards later and cleaned up the frame & mounting boss arrangement to the trucks. I then 'hard wired' a decoder in. Much more reliable operation. I have an ABA set of these that are super smooth after the 're wire' job.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I've done several, all with sound. All are hard wired in. Speaker is in rear of hood, firing down through the truck. While you're in there, treat yourself to a super bright LED for the headlight. Much better than any bulb.