If I don't come across these bits I may just go see the lads at the second hand train store. They buy and sell all kind of stuff. I'm sure I will find an old PACE hand set for 10 or so dollars.
Cheers
Chris
Cheers...
Chris from down under...
We're all here because we're not all there...
You can use a DPDT toggle switch to reverse the polarity of the power supply you use to run the trains.
Good for you if that works.
I buy surplus switching power supplies from dealers such as Alltronics (multiple output). These tend to have all the right outputs (+5vdc, +12vdc, -5vdc) for what I need. And they're cheap (usually in the $10-$15 range). Useful for driving all kinds of devices (lighting, switch machines, etc.)
Please do not make your own power source from the mains unless you have electrical certification.
Electricity is a silent killer!!!
I have tested the 12V DC power supply and found it to work perfectly.
I have found that a "LITEON electronics" transformer off a disguarded computer monitor to be the perfect little power pack for my short little layout. It pumps out 12V DC with 3.3Amps . What a money saver.
Not sure whether the 15V "OEM" AC adapter works yet. Have to dig out the multi meter.
I will be attacking the old keyboard it was with to extract the female end of the connection and then I will be on my way to having the power of this fully operational deathstar at my disposal..Mhhahahahaa.
As they say, "Yes, but...."
What kind of switch machines? Twin-coils (Atlas, Peco) are fine with AC power, but for a Tortoise you need DC. I run my Tortoise machines (a dozen or so by now) off one 9-volt DC wall wart. You can get a bridge rectifier from Radio $hack for a dollar or so to convert AC to DC.
These supplies have very simple overload protection. There is a fuse buried within that black box. If it goes, you can find out how your community recycles electronic junk, because that's all you will have. The fuse is not replaceable, and it's only there to keep the unit from catching fire, burning down your house and giving you a chance to sue the manufacturer. So, you should arrange to put a lower-rated fuse in series with the output, so that your cheap, replaceable fuse will go first. You can get fuses and fuse blocks from Radio $hack, too.
I started with a mish-mash of old train transformers and wall warts. Gradually, I got sick of dealing with multiple supplies and multiple output voltages, so I standardized on 12 volts DC for my structure lighting, and I've bought several 4-amp supplies to support that. I bought an NCE 5-amp supply to run my DCC system at its full 5-amp capacity.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Ah yes...
That is where a two way toggle could be wired to have a reversedwiring on one side. It could be installed into an old dimmer. A new dimmer costs an arm and a leg round these parts.I would be sure to pop a few fuses in the and some kind of short indication light. Hmmm getting complicated.
My local electronics store has gone mainstream and got rid of the parts section. Twas a great isle for all kinds of sparky bits.
I have recently had a chat with some model railway enthusiasts and they have informed me that to save myself some hard earned cash on a small point to point layout I could use old phone chargers to power point motors (one at a time) and the locos(one at a time). Which is all I need for my short layout.
The layout only consists of 6 meters of track and 4 turnouts...
Charger #1 has output of 15V AC at 1A Good for point motor?
Charger #2 has output 12V DC at 3.33A Good for loco power?
Any thoughts?