The below site has a lot of good info about DCC and Tsunami. This fellow use to own and run Litchfield Station, a very good DCC on line site.
Look in Curriculum. He has a lot of good info. Store the link in Favorites or Bookmarks.
http://www.mrdccu.com/
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Kurt Halverson I thought that maybe the problem was with the programing of the decoder. I had heard that the Tsunamis are a bear to program.
I thought that maybe the problem was with the programing of the decoder. I had heard that the Tsunamis are a bear to program.
Kurt, I think generally the "bear" of programming a Tsunami is that compared to earlier decoders it just has so many CVs that you can set for various options that it can be difficult to get the exact result you want. Some of them are sort of "interlocked" so you have to set multiple CVs to get an effect...like you have to set a certain number to one CV to turn on automatic brake squeal, then set another CV to a number to get the 'sensitivity' you want (i.e., how fast the engine has to be going before the stop to cause the squeal noise) and then set another CV to determine the volume of the brake squeal noise.
I recently started using JMRI Decoder Pro, a free online download, to program decoders, especially sound engines. It makes it much more "user friendly" and allows you to set things up much easier. You do need an interface between a computer and a programming track - I use Digitrax so use their PR3 - but in the long run it's well worth it.
Another good way to clean loco wheels is to put a cloth down across the tracks and dampen with 91% alcohol. Then hold half of the loco wheels over the cloth with the other half on the track and increase the throttle. Slide back and forth until they are clean. Switch to the other half and repeat. Nice and fast and does a thorough job.
Next replace any plastic wheels to metal and clean the rolling stock wheels. Otherwise any dirt on them will wind up back on the loco.
Springfield PA
Kurt Halverson I then inspected the wheels and I found that they were very dirty! I cleaned them with some Goo Gone and paper towels.
I then inspected the wheels and I found that they were very dirty! I cleaned them with some Goo Gone and paper towels.
I used to use goo gone. It cleans, but also leaves a residue. At the recommendation of the forum members and MR staff, I switched to 70% Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol. It works just as well and does not leave a residue; and it seems the track and wheels need cleaning less often.
Most problems deal with electrical connections (soldering works wonders too), glad your problem was solved.
Inspired by Addiction
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Nice to see a reply and success.
There is a active Yahoo NCE Group with a lot of knowledgeable people. Problem being are spammers have figured out to hack an account and a clueless member can find someone using his email to send Spam out. Usually some Canadian drug company. I left that group because of the Spam.
Thank you to everyone for all the great suggestions! Last night I cleaned up a section of track with a Bright Boy. I also took the shell of the locomotive and soldered the wires to the clips as suggested. That did help, but it did not totally solve the problem. I then inspected the wheels and I found that they were very dirty! I cleaned them with some Goo Gone and paper towels. The engine now runs like a dream and it never looses its sound! I think we can call this problem "case closed"!
I do feel like an idiot for buying a Power Pax when the Power Cab system does not need it. I guess you live and learn!
Thanks again everyone for all the help!
Kurt
Modeling the Great Northern, Fall of 1969, in HO scale!
Also, try to see if the track is uneven. It might cause the track pickup electrical connection to cut out. Make sure there are no dips or anything...
If the Tsunami is a "KT" series, the most likely cause is a loose connection between the solder pads on the edge of the decoder and the contacts coming up from the sides of the motor. These connections should be soldered instead of relying on a friction fit.
woodone When using a Power Cab system there is no need for a PowerPax booster unit. A Power Cab will program the Tsunami by itself. Like stated before make sure the locomotive is making good contact with the rails.
When using a Power Cab system there is no need for a PowerPax booster unit. A Power Cab will program the Tsunami by itself.
Like stated before make sure the locomotive is making good contact with the rails.
I have the NCE Power Cab and that is all I use to program the Tsunami and other decoders. I always select Program Track first, then connect the loco for new installs in case there is a wiring error. It did happen once which saved the decoder.
Those are some great suggestions. My decoder is one that is specifically for Kato engines, it replaces the circuit board. Tonight I will first try cleaning the track and wheels. If that does not work, I will post pictures of my installed decoder and maybe a Youtube video of what the locomotive does. I will also do some reading on that Mr Dcc site!
Thanks,
Sounds like dirty track or wheels. DCC sound is sensitive to poor pickup. Clean the track and wheels. Not looks clean but has been cleaned.
Look at the below link. Click on Curriculum. Lots of info about the Tsunami. Store the link in Favorites. Do a lot of reading.
Hello Everyone!
I am somewhat new to DCC, and I am finding that there is alot to learn! I converted my layout to DCC with the NCE Powercab system. I have a couple of locos that I have added non-sound decoders to, and they work great. I recently added a Tsunami decoder to a Kato SD45. When I set the SD45 on the tracks, the sound starts up like a real locomotive starting up. When I start to move it forward, the sound stops. I thought that maybe the problem was with the programing of the decoder. I had heard that the Tsunamis are a bear to program. I bought a PowerPax programing boster and I hooked it in line to my programing track. I tried to reprogram the decoder. but that did not seem to solve the problem.
I am really excited to be able to someday run the engine with sound, and I appreciate any advice on things to try.
Thank you!