Unless it has been re-motored, this model has an open frame motor and one terminal of the motor is grounded to the frame of the model. You need to completely isolate the motor from the model's frame from an electrical viewpoint, otherwise you will fry your decoder upon first power-up. Even if the model runs well as is, you should consider re-powering because it is likely to be little or no more difficult than isolating the existing motor.
I put a TCS M1 in an Overland 0-6-0. It came with a can motor and only pulled a half amp stalled. The M1 decoder is smaller than a dime and tucked very nicely under the motor in the ash pan. There is no wires connecting to the tender. Everything fit nice in the loco. These pics are taken before the decoder was installed. I even put a bulb in the headlight. http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j348/locoi1sa/Brass%20B6/
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
You better check to see just how many amps the motor draws before you install a decoder.
Unless this is a can motored unit I think that you better check that first. I always check motor amp draw before installs on brass units.
I must ask, why are you looking at a Z scale decoder for a HO model? If there is a tender, there should be lots of room for a HO decoder.
I don't have it in my hands right now. i just want motor, I really don't need lights since my club runs during the day. It has a tender. Looking at the Digitrax Z scale decoder for it...
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
Luke.
Do you want sound or just motor and light? Does this loco have a can motor and how does it run on DC right now? Does it have a tender or is it a tank loco?
Do you want sound or just motor and light? Does this loco have a can motor and how does it run on DC right now?
Looking to install DCC in my HO scale Akane models brass USRA 0-6-0. What decoder would be best for this install? Also, how hard would it be? Thanks in advanced!