Does anyone out there know of a 'plug n play' decoder for N scale Life-Like Alco PA/PB-1 locomotives - I love these locomotives, they are smooth runners and really smart looking and I would like to convert them to DCC. I can't find any mention of them in the big producers sites.
Have you had the shells removed . I am not sure but I don't think you are going to see a plug and play (drop in) decoder for this guy. Most Life Like's had large metal weights over the drive trucks and they were made in two parts. One for the front and one for the rear. Most of the time these locos had plactic frames. I would guess these are going to be a hard wire install.
Removing the shells will show you what you have. We can go from there as to how to help you.
If your PA/PB are built the same as an LL E8 drive mechanism, this link may help. They are not PLUG N PLAY though.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/N_Scale/Life_Like/E8A/N_LL_E8A_plastic_M-1.html
I have removed the shells and, yes they are just about all weight inside - I think that this might be too difficult without major alterations - I just don't have the fine motor skills or eyesight anymore to accomplish this task.
Thank you for the link - the TCS website says that this is only for the most experienced installers - I am not one of those, having only converted to DCC two months ago....I guess I will just bite the bullet and run them on DC (My Zephyr Extra system does that very well).
It really isn't that hard. Go slow and follow the pics. I'm sure you can do it. But one word that might help.... optivisor!
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
That's a bit challenging, but not impossibly hard. There's only 1 small nub to file off the frame. Only 1 wire looks exceedingly short, slightly tough to strip without pulling it off the decoder. The LED would be the hardest part but they cheated and uses a SMD LED already moutied to s small PCB so it's a lot easier to solder.
Not an installation to do as a first one, but after you do a few this shouldn;t be terribly difficult. An Optivisor or a magnifier lamp would definitely be helpful. Aztek has a milled repalcement frame for the PA, but it's for replacing a split frame design. This might be a little easier to install though:
http://www.aztectrains.com/Resources/TM3032.pdf
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Pomerol,
Let me add some words of encouragement. I model N scale and was reluctant to change any factory loco. But since I've discovered that factory does not mean correct, to get prototypical I have to kitbash. I have done some wild things at my work table to get my CN locos more prototypical. I have sawed off the cab of an expensive Kato SD45 to install a correct wide nosed cab. I've corrected an old 1980s Atals GP9 that had a too-short chassis with a correct replacement chassis. To accomplish this I had to dismantle the entire chassis and get it back in the same exact position. I've installed several Richmond light controls which were not exactly small back in the day. I chopped the nose off an F7 so I could put a prototypical plow on it. Then I found the new plow was a wee bit longer than anticipated preventing the chassis from sliding back under the hood. So I had to dismantle the entire thing and grind down about 3/16 from the chassis to get it to fit. Holy smokes what a job. My next adventure is to rip out the lights from a very expensive Hallmark brass F7 AB set and install a Miniatronics LED light.
What I'm saying here is that, I realize a person has limitations--my eyesight is not what it was just a few years ago--but some times you just have to grab a hammer in the right hand and the loco in the left hand and go to it.
-Paul
Paul, Thanks for the words of encouragement! I guess sometimes we get caught up in the old cost vs effort argument - will I botch it and have to go back to the beginning? This is one of those things that just makes this hobby such a great pastime...solving problems, applying techniques never yet tried, getting help anf kind words from strangers from around the world - I will look again at the options here and make some plans I think - I have done three successful drop in installations (wow!), maybe I will try a less important locomotive first ( I have an RS-3 I could try), see how that goes and move forward.
Greg
Fastball Pomerol, Let me add some words of encouragement. I model N scale and was reluctant to change any factory loco. But since I've discovered that factory does not mean correct, to get prototypical I have to kitbash. I have done some wild things at my work table to get my CN locos more prototypical. I have sawed off the cab of an expensive Kato SD45 to install a correct wide nosed cab. I've corrected an old 1980s Atals GP9 that had a too-short chassis with a correct replacement chassis. To accomplish this I had to dismantle the entire chassis and get it back in the same exact position. I've installed several Richmond light controls which were not exactly small back in the day. I chopped the nose off an F7 so I could put a prototypical plow on it. Then I found the new plow was a wee bit longer than anticipated preventing the chassis from sliding back under the hood. So I had to dismantle the entire thing and grind down about 3/16 from the chassis to get it to fit. Holy smokes what a job. My next adventure is to rip out the lights from a very expensive Hallmark brass F7 AB set and install a Miniatronics LED light. What I'm saying here is that, I realize a person has limitations--my eyesight is not what it was just a few years ago--but some times you just have to grab a hammer in the right hand and the loco in the left hand and go to it. -Paul
I agree, you will never know if you can or can't do it untill you try.
pomerol Paul, Thanks for the words of encouragement! I guess sometimes we get caught up in the old cost vs effort argument - will I botch it and have to go back to the beginning? This is one of those things that just makes this hobby such a great pastime...solving problems, applying techniques never yet tried, getting help anf kind words from strangers from around the world - I will look again at the options here and make some plans I think - I have done three successful drop in installations (wow!), maybe I will try a less important locomotive first ( I have an RS-3 I could try), see how that goes and move forward. Greg
If you are talking about an Atlas RS-3 it's WAY harder! If you can do that, almost anything is doable!