Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Am I missing the question? Are you asking how to do it? Is it an older Blue box or a newer can motor equipped loco? Does it have the quick plug or is this a hard wire?
A little more info is required.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I am betting that it is a Blue Box question, but we will have to wait and see. Those old Blue Box Athearns did not have the motor isolated from the frame so that was the first step to make the engine DCC ready.
Rich
Alton Junction
If it IS a Blue Box - best overall way is to swap the top and bottom motor clips (careful not to loose the brush springs or brushes, or let the motor come apart - those clips are all that hold it together). Add a piece of black electrical tape or better a piece of Kapton tape to the cavity in the frame where the prongs ont eh former lower clip touched the chassis, reinstall motor, and you're good to go. Oh yeah solder a wire to the bottom clip first - you'll need that.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If you're lazy, Digitrax has a DH123 kit that has replacement clips and is quite easy to use.
I personally would swap the clips or just cut off the tabs on the bottom clip and then "paint" the contact area with liquid electrical tape. Actual electrical or Kapton tape is good, but not quite as elegant and this is really a belts+suspenders situation with the tabs removed.
YoHo1975 If you're lazy, Digitrax has a DH123 kit that has replacement clips and is quite easy to use.
I haven't set up a blue box loco yet for DCC but isn't there the issue of isolating the motor from the frame or you could get short and fry the decodor? I thought you needed to remove the motor and lay down a layer of insulation and then remount it.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
locoi1sa Am I missing the question?
Am I missing the question?
He seems to be having trouble getting his posts to post. He has a question regarding that on the general info part of the forum: http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/191857.aspx
Absolutely correct. I haven't been able to post anything for the last 4-5 days.
-Bob
I just bought an old Athearn GP38-2 blue box engine, dc as manufactured. I plan to put a DCC decoder in it and know that I have to isolate the motor from the frame/chassis. My question is: I have some new Athearn metal motor mounts that I plan to use to replace the rubber ones and if I use electrical tape or Kaptan tape between the motor and frame, don’t the metal screws form a path for electrical continuity to the motor? Or am I missing something here?
Thanks,
- Bob
farrellaa I just bought an old Athearn GP38-2 blue box engine, dc as manufactured. I plan to put a DCC decoder in it and know that I have to isolate the motor from the frame/chassis. My question is: I have some new Athearn metal motor mounts that I plan to use to replace the rubber ones and if I use electrical tape or Kaptan tape between the motor and frame, don’t the metal screws form a path for electrical continuity to the motor? Or am I missing something here? Thanks, - Bob
I don't know what the metal motor mounts you want to use look like. What is wrong with the rubber ones? You are correct that any metal screws that contact both the frame and the bottom of the motor will cause a short, assuming that you are talking about the standard Athearn motor that has the bottom clip. What you need to do is remove that bottom motor clip and get rid of the two little tabs that contact the frame. Then you should put your kaptan tape between the bottom of the motor and the frame "just in case".
I bought the metal mounts from Athearn and was told they were the newer type and eliminated any vibration? I put some in a GP18 and they worked fine, on DC. I don't have to use the metal ones, but wanted to know if anyone had done so and wouldn't it still cause a short? I think your response would confirm that. I could get some nylon screws though.
Depends where ont he motor they touch, if just the plastic end caps and NOT the lower clip, then the motor should still be isolated fromt eh frame even with metal motor mouts. Easy enough to test, do the other steps, including soldering a wire to the bottom clip, then put the motor in the chassis with the metal moutns and check continuity fromt eh frame to the wire. If it's open circuit, you're good, the motor is isolated. If not, go back and figure out what's touching before installing a decoder.