I purchased a Tam Valley Octopus back in January and just started trying to install. I am having trouble with wiring the togle switch and LED. I am using DPDT (on off on) toggle switch. I want to have two LED one green and one red to show turnout position. The instructions provided are minimal, and emails to Duncan have not gotten response. I notice now his site has disclaimer that the product is not for novices. I have seen several on this forum have installed other Tam Valley products any help would be appreciated.
Just what are you having problems with?? LED's don't work , will not operate servo?
Do you have the MTR jumper removed?
My best guess looking at the wiring examples would be to wire the LEDs as shown in the lower right diagream for two LED indicators. Take the Mtr jumper off, and wire the SPST toggle switch across pins 1 and 3 of the switch/LED connector. BEFORE the resistors.
Or for $8 you can get 4 of the controllers made for it, with LEDs and a pushbutton.
After my first trial Singlet, I had some technical questions before I ordered more, and DUncan promptly answered my email. I know he's runnign behind these days trying to keep up with demand. I talked to one of the Motrak guys at Timonium, after the Springfield show - he said Duncan was at the Springfield show and cleaned him out of the servo mounts, they've been selling liek hotcakes.
I can see why he says "not for beginners" but using the deisnged components together isn;t very difficult. It's when trying to figure out an alternate method of usign the device that you are pretty much on your own. The fascia controllers Duncan sells jus tplug in and work. Wiring LEDs AND a toggle, that's nto shown int he examples. I'm guess it's possible, the fascia controllers work in a similar fashion although that;s a pushbutton plus LEDs. Maybe getting oen and looking at the circuit would help - it's much as I described above as somethign to try except there's an extra resistor. I don't have one handy to look at to see where it goes.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks Randy
I had the DPDT toggles and LED's handy because of other turn out motors on layout. Was trying to keep control panel consistent from a looks perspective.
MTR jumper is off.
I was able to get the toggle switch to operate the servo last night by putting two wires from outside poles on the Octopus to poles 1 and 2 on the DPDT. (I am counting poles vertically 1,2,3 down then 4 is back at the top). When I wire center wire from octopus to center pole (2) the toggle will turn off the Octopus when the toggle is in the downward (ON) position I have my LEDs wired according to the diagram, but they are not working. Clearly I am missing something coming from the octopus to the toggle or I need to cross wire poles.
The problem is with the toggle switch. You need to use a "normally open, momentary contact push button" with the servos. These are relatively inexpensive and the circuits are wired for this type of switch.
Duncan has been very responsive to my e-mails. I suggest trying again. I know he is busy, but I usually get a response within 24 to 48 hours.
Eric
No, the Octopus can operate with toggles - that's what the Mtr jumper is - momentary contact to trigger it or a fixed contact (toggle).
OK, sounds like you have the toggle right - using a DPDT is probably confusing you since it has more connections thant you need. But if you count 1-2-3 down oen side of the DPDT, and you have 1-2-3 on the switch conenction ont he Octupus, then you should have Octopus #1 to toggle #1, Octopus #3 to toggle #2. With the MTR jumper OFF.
Next thign would be to connect LEDs to the Ocopus as shown in the lower right diagram in the wiring examples. I don't think this will work though, since when the toggle is closed it will be shorting out the one LED. Now if it's the OTHER LED that should be on in that position, it might actually work. But since it's not given as an option, I think not. The fascia controllers work the same way, except with a momentary pushbutton, and an extra resistor for a pullup somewhere. It does briefly short the one LED to send the signal to the Octopus. I just grabbedone of mien to look at the circuit.
NO pusbutton connects black to white when pressed. No resistor. White to 330 ohm resistor to anode of one led. WHite to 330 ohm resistor to cathode of second LED. Cathode of LED1 to anode of LED 2 to red. 4.7K resistor between red and white.
This differs slightly from the picture - the picture could be wrong. WHere the picture has the wire fromt he bottom LED going to pin 1, the black - connect that wire to pin 2 instead. Then try the toggle the way you got it to work - between pins 1 and 3 on the Octopus.
Randy I think you hit on what I was missing "thign would be to connect LEDs to the Ocopus" I was trying to connect to toggle like tortoise. the diagram says the wiring for the LED is the same for MTR on (momentary) or off (toggle) so I'll give it a shot tonight.
Keep in mind the change - on the fascia controllers Duncan makes, there is no LED connectio to the black wire (pin 1 on the connector).
If all else fails, you can use the other set of poles on the DPDT switch to operate the LEDs with their own power supply, independent of the Octopus. Or just go for the fascia controlelrs, the kit versions are cheap and all you have to do is solderont he connector, pushbutton, and LEDs. Plus you can use Y cables and control a single turnout from multiple locations and both will have proper LED indication.
Success. You have to basicaly combine his two diagrams. Create a pigtail off each the wires coming from inner and outer pin. One goes to toggle other goes to LED. One goes to toggle one goes to leg with resistors. Middle wire from octopus goes to 3rd leg of LED configuration.
Thanks Randy for the A HA moment.
Glad to hear you got it working.