Remember reading several ads in mrr mags a few years back, about an electronic track cleaning unit for D.C. layouts only, which was designed to zap a high frequency change through your layout trackage to burn off crud, oxidation, etc,. leaving track/ wheels clean. WHAT was it's trade name/ company address? Are they still available and has anyone here actually used one? TTFN.....papasmurf
Looked like a gimick to me. An LHS near me has them in stock but I never saw anyone buy one. Stick with the basics and you'll be fine. Use the 100+ bucks you save for some nice rolling stock.
Springfield PA
Miniatronics is currently selling one of these mounted in a dummy Atheran F7 shell. They call it the Elektrak Clean II. I vaguely remember the Clean I. You can buy it directly from Miniatronics or from any of several resellers (for example, MicroMark).
The concept has been around for years. To start with, the elctronic components were too large to be car-mounted; they were wired into the track (usually with a bypass switch) and a special locomotive was used. I believe they are more popular in the UK than on this side of the pond. Tony's Train Exchange has a review of the unit in action.
When I was living in the UK I know that some folks swore by this process while others swore AT it.
There is one definite issue ofr you to consider: this is a two-step cleaning process. The unit literally burns the crud - I remember in the UK that if the track was seriously dirty there was a most definite burning odor (but to be clear, I am not suggesting there is any fire hazard). Therefore you ALSO need to remove the resulting debris. Folks who use these things commonly pair them with a conventional track cleaner such as the Centerline or the Clean Machine. I personally think that following along with a vacuum cleaner would be even better.
The preceding issue is a fact. The following issue is a matter of often-spirited debate, at least in the UK. Namely, some folks believe that these units pit the railhead over time; the designers, and those who continue to use them, say otherwise. I guess its too difficult to do a scientifically objective analysis.
Last but not least is the also-controversial question of how much of the crud they burn. Are they actually as good, or better, than the alternatives? Once again I've never heard of any objective tests and I think this could be done to a useful level of precision pretty easily: buy a couple of pieces of sectional rail. Get them good and dirty - maybe even leave them outside for a few weeks. Whatever. Then clean one with the Elektrak followed up by a Centerline or Cleanmachine. Clean the other conventionally, whatever you consider that to be. Then for each of them, apply rubbing alcohol liberally and use a soft, white paper towel. How much dirt still shows up on the paper towel? (I can guarantee you that the rubbing alcohol will leave visible dirt on BOTH towels whatever your cleaning method).
If you get one, let us know what you think of it.
Given that creating a spark between two surfaces is exactly how electrical discharge machining (EDM) works, well - I'd tend to go along with the people who think it will pit the rail eventually.
I wish I knew what I do differently than most, because I NEVER clean my track and NEVER have power problems (well I do have to scrape the paint off that gets on the railhead when I paint - but that's it). I haven't even been in my train room in 2 weeks and I'm willign to bet I could put a sound loco on the rails and let it creep around on step one and the sound will never stutter nor will the headlight flicker.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The theory behind this "gimmick" is that a very high voltage, high frequency, low current electrical signal is placed on the rail that causes a spark to be generated when the locomotive wheels travel over dirt, thus supposedly burning off the dirt. But that can also pit locomotive wheels and rail.
If this device were such a great invention, we would suredly be hearing a lot about it on these forums or in the hobby magazines.
Here are the two track cleaner products available from Miniatronics.
Electrak Clean II
Electrak Clean
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
It's interesting to note that a track cleaning car marketed by Atlas and the Electrak are from the same company in England, who seems to be playing on people's beliefs there is a miracle cure for dirty track.
The Atlas car has a way too small track cleaning fluid reservoir with no drip control, and the cleaning pad is so small that you cannot clean more than about 10 feet of rail on a fill. The only useful part of it that I have found is the vacuum cleaner.
Way back when DCC first began to gain in popularity, beliefs were postulated on these forums that the high frequency DCC command signal and constant voltage on the track would keep the track clean and eliminate cleaning by other means.
Anyone who has been using these forums for more than a week knows that there are continual discussions on track cleaning methods, whether with or without DCC, so that theory does not hold water.
But manufacturers keep claiming to have just developed a miraculous device that will take all the drudgery out of track cleaning for a mere $100.
And for those who believe that, I have some land in the Everglades and a bridge in Brooklyn for sale, cheap.
Perhaps, but other than scraping the paint off the railhead after paintign the rails, I never clean my track. I don;t own a track cleanign car, nor do I even own a bright boy or similar item. I don;t put drops of various solvents ont eh track and wipe it with a rag, either.
Is it DCC? Perhaps - but not because of the frequency, more like because it is full voltage all the time. With most DC (can't say all, there are PWM-based DC systems), when you are running slow the track voltage is low, and a smaller loss is a relatively larger percentage of the current voltage, ie a .5 volt drop with just 4 volts on the rails is a greater percentage than .5 volts out of a total 15 volts on the rail.
But there has to be more than that. It's not a climate controlled room - although in the case of my current layout it is, unless I have a window open. My previous layout behaved the same way though, and it was in an unfinished basement, exposed ceiling joists and infinished bare concrete floor and walls. Also DCC.