dngnrr Will this also work with a 1960's Mantua 4-6-2? Like the originator, I have a very nice one that I run DC but would like to convert?
Will this also work with a 1960's Mantua 4-6-2? Like the originator, I have a very nice one that I run DC but would like to convert?
Depends on motor current.
Use your multimeter on the amps scale and run it at 12 volts DC. I put some pressure on the drivers to slow it down a little. For locked rotor current, remove the shell and hold the worm that is on the motor shaft. Don't hold the worm gear or drivers, the worm might strip the worm gear. Slipping drivers is my method.
Use Kadee #5 coupler springs to make driver pickups on the locomotive that has the insulated drivers.
Use the same springs on the tender wheels for all wheel pickup.
My Mantua 0-6-0T with a Bachmann oil tender is now a oil cab forward, 2-6-0 with DZ125 in the loco and a SoundTraxx LC decoder and speaker in the tender. The DZ125 is good for 1 amp.
I also use the DZ125 with a MDC Boxcab open frame motor as I know the current it draws.
My 1952 all metal MDC 4-4-2 draws well over 1 amp and had an older Pittman motor and gear drive. I just had NWSL remotor and regear it and it will get a Tsunami and speaker in the tender.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
The old motors almost certainly draw too much current. The 1960's version of those also picks up one side ont he loco and the other side on the tender. The motor is likely grounded to the loco frame. This will require significant effort to isolate the motor and/or replace it. Better results would be to add additional pickups as well.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The DINGER line Free Lance Steam to Diesel
Old Mantua will not be DCC ready and not have a LED for a light.
Check motor current at 12 volts DC. If below 1 amp. Get a Digitrax DZ125 decoder.
No motor contact connected to the frame.
Make sure no light lead connected to frame.
Right rail, red decoder wire.
Left rail, black wire.
Blue wire one light lead.
White wire, other light lead.
Orange wire, motor
Gray wire motor.
If loco runs opposite on DC, reverse motor wires.
You can figure out which motor lead is positive by connecting a 9 volt battery to the motor before connecing the decoder.
I have put a DZ125 into a Mantua steamer.