Randy et al: Thanks guys. Last saturday we methodically went through the different combinations of AR-1 and PM 42 speed setting, trying to determine which setting resulted in the shortest stall. ( The AR-1 is downstream from the PM 42.)
The best result was the PM 42 set slow and the AR-1 set fastest. This produced NO stall when traversing the gap at SLOW loco speeds (yard speed). However, there is some delay at "road" speed, which is fine, as slow speed would be most appropriate anyway.
Thanks again! Happy Railroading.
Joel aka Owen W in CA
I just know with all Digitrax parts it works. A friend's layout has DCS100 - PM42 - AR1 on a reverse loop and it's dead nuts reliable, even on low current draw N scale locos (his layout is N scale).
Of course he has an old BD16 block detector, supposedly they don't work with an decoder that have high frequency or supersonic drive withotu giving false indications - he has an utomated trolley loop that depends on those block detections to keep the trains from runnign into one another and it too is completely reliable - and all his decoders have high frequency drive.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
When you get conflicting advise, I would always start with Randy's. He's the apparent Digitrax expert in here.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Thanks guys. You've all given me some ideas for approaching this. Tomorrow's a railroad workday, so I'll let you know if the problem is solved and how.
If the AR-1 is downstream of a PM42 section you may have to adjust that PM42 section to trip at a slower speed so the AR-1 has time to do its thing. The default speed of each section is 'standard' which should be fine, if you changed them to 'faster' or 'fastest' this could be a problem with an AR-1.
The PM42 is also capable of auto reversing. I suspect that might be the problem.
owen w in california Richhotrain: I'm using the AR-1 on a WYE. I finally got it set to trip only once, ran trains, all good. A few days later I came back to run trains and now the AR-1 is multi-tripping (constant) when power is on. I recently read something about having to adjust the PM-42 district when using the AR-1. Any thoughts on why the AR-1 is multi-tripping? Is it related to needing to adjust the PM-42 Thanks.
Richhotrain: I'm using the AR-1 on a WYE. I finally got it set to trip only once, ran trains, all good. A few days later I came back to run trains and now the AR-1 is multi-tripping (constant) when power is on. I recently read something about having to adjust the PM-42 district when using the AR-1.
Any thoughts on why the AR-1 is multi-tripping? Is it related to needing to adjust the PM-42
Thanks.
The only time that I experience constant tripping of one my four AR-1's is when something is bridging the gap, confusing the AR-1 between normal polarity and reverse polarity.
I suppose that the PM42 could be the problem. Are you using the PM42 to control more than one AR-1 unit? You might try disconnecting the PM42 or rewiring the AR-1 without the connection to the PM42 to determine if the PM42 is involved in your problem.
Rich
Alton Junction
I have been following with interest. I have the Pro-Cab-R, so I guess I am OK.
Thanks everyone.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
The Power Cab is a different animal than the Pro- Cab set ups. Thanks for letting me know. I was just letting the OP to watch out for reverse loops if using a PC.
The Power Cab is a different animal than the Pro- Cab set ups.
Thanks for letting me know.
I was just letting the OP to watch out for reverse loops if using a PC.
I have four AR-1's on my layout which I operate in DCC with an NCE PH-Pro 5 amp system. All four units work just fine.
I do not own any Power Cabs. As much of a fan of NCE as I am, I continually wonder about the merits of the Power Cab to operate anything but a small DCC layout.
I have heard of a lot of problems with the use of PSX-AR units with the Power Cab, and I wonder if the same is true with the Digitrax AR-1. It just seems to me that the Power Cab isn't powerful enough to handle things like reversing units, at least not multiple reversing units.
Are you using a Power Cab system?
I was hoping to see someone other than myself that had tried this AR-1 with the Power Cab.
All Power Cabs behave the same way. They are so quick, the AR-1 never has time to toggle. It is a time factor, not AMPS. So I am told.
I upgraded my Power Cab with the SB3a booster because I had one reverse loop that I could not ever make work. The Smart Booster fixed that.
NCE was working on a reverser that would work with the Power Cab, but it has never apeared?
I was told that almost a year ago.
You are saying that you have 2 of the AR-1 's and had no problem.
Are you using a Power Cab?
That was my understanding, The Power Cab shuts down before the AR-1 will toggle .
Any one using the AR-1 with at Power Cab? And does it work?
Hey Rich:
Right you are. The instructions are there. One nuance is that they say to set the TTC with a lashup of the most locos you will use. I didn't catch that at first, and couldn't get the AR1 set low enough not to trip the booster with only one loco.
Finally, with 3 (F3A, B, B) it worked fine, but with only 1 (NW3) - N Scale - it still trips the booster - momentarily - and it's set all the way down.
Any thoughts?
yankee flyer I had to return my AR1 because my 2AMP (1.7a ?) Power Cab would trip before the AR1. Never could get to work. Thats just my experience.
I had to return my AR1 because my 2AMP (1.7a ?) Power Cab would trip before the AR1. Never could get to work. Thats just my experience.
Lee, if I recall correctly this was a major issue with the Power Cab when it first came out and in particular with the original smart booster. The short protection in these devices was so fast that they would not work with any brand of auto-reverser. In fact I had a friend that ended up getting rid of a PowerCab and replacing it with a different brand because he could never get an auto reverse section working.
To the OP, I installed 2 of AR-1 last night on a pair of wye's and they worked flawlessly so far without any adjustment.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
owen w in california On the issue of adjusting the AR-1. The literature says you can adjust it up or down, but doesn't explain why you might want to do that. It doesn't explain how changing the setting affects the operation of the unit/loco. Why would I want a higher trip level and why would I want a lower one?
On the issue of adjusting the AR-1. The literature says you can adjust it up or down, but doesn't explain why you might want to do that. It doesn't explain how changing the setting affects the operation of the unit/loco. Why would I want a higher trip level and why would I want a lower one?
Well, actually it does explain why.
The instructions read as follows:
Place a locomotive on the mainline and operate it into the reversing section. It will trip 1 time at the beginning of the loop or at the end of the loop. It should not trip more than once while the train is in the loop. If the AR1 trips more than once, the trip current is set too low. Turn the TTC clockwise slightly to increase the current trip point. Repeat the test until the AR1 trips once while the train goes through the reversing section. If the AR1 does not trip and the booster shuts down, the trip current is set too high. Remove the train from the reversing section and allow the booster to reset. Turn the TTC counterclockwise slightly and repeat the test until the train trips the AR1 once without shutting down the booster.
Hi Randy: On the issue of adjusting the AR-1. The literature says you can adjust it up or down, but doesn't explain why you might want to do that. It doesn't explain how changing the setting affects the operation of the unit/loco. Why would I want a higher trip level and why would I want a lower one?
Thanks Joel
I have used the AR-1 with great success as well. Simple, effective, adjustable, and reasonably priced. Like others have said, with trains running I can't hear the relay at all. Even in silence you probably can't really hear it from more than a few feet away.
Yes, There is the "adjustment" I spent a great deal of time adjusting, Maybe it was defective.
Just my experience.
Lee
The AR-1 is one that works on nearly any system BECAUSE you can adjust it down that low. Other autoreversers have their lowest trip current settign above that of many starter systems.
The AR1 has an adjustment potentiometer that can go down to a quarter of an amp. It's probably why it didn't work. You have to adjust it for your layout.
Springfield PA
Good luck.
Stevert The two common complaints about the AR1 are that since they use a relay, they are slow and noisy.
The two common complaints about the AR1 are that since they use a relay, they are slow and noisy.
Mine are very quite, in fact your really have to listen to even hear them switch over,
They are very fast too, Never had a problem with them being slow.
I've been using an AR-1 for five years with MRC DCC system. No problems.
USAF (Retired)
I have four AR-1 units on my layout, and they all work fine.
They are quick and virtually silent.
The AR-1 will work fine. We use them at the club and have no problems. Also any relay click will easily be drowned out by the trains running, even if it was audible.
MisterBeasleyWhen you have a balloon track, you don't have to worry about the problem of having the loco on one end of the loop while the caboose is on the other. That's when a solid-state system has an advantage with the fast switching time.
Depending on just where you put the gaps on that balloon, and how long your train is, you sure can have the loco on one set of gaps and the caboose on the other set!
But along that line of thought, one of my AR-1 powered reversing sections has an even bigger "problem": It consists of a section of the mainline and a passing siding, with the gaps just past the turnouts. In other words, the reversing section includes the turnouts and the passing siding.
So not only can I have a long train hit the gaps at both ends at the same time, I can have two shorter trains going in the same direction hit the gaps at the same time, or even trains moving in opposite directions hit both sets of gaps at the same time.
But I don't know how many times I may have hit one of those situations, because if I have, the AR-1 has never flinched.
It should be fine. When you have a balloon track, you don't have to worry about the problem of having the loco on one end of the loop while the caboose is on the other. That's when a solid-state system has an advantage with the fast switching time.
The AR-1 lists for $30, and the $25 price is slightly more than the Tony's Trains price, but you'll save on shipping. I'd go for it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.